I will be looking at this MINI tomorrow:

http://www.craigslist.org/sfc/car/119649036.html

This is my preferred color package, and the car comes with the "right stuff" as far as options are concerned. He is asking $19,850 OBO. Is this a fair price? I understand that a new one, after tax, title and license is about $3,000 more, but I don't want a new car as I have said before. Is his asking price fair, or is there room for negotiation? I asked him this and he sounded firm on the price (he is a broker, so he's good at this kind of stuff, while I am not very good at all). How can I get him to drop the price? Money talks, BS walks style? If I tell him that I am ready to buy it right then for $18,000, do you think he would laugh at me and lose interest in the sale because he'd think I wasn't serious?

Help!

 

Tell him you're prepared to drive it to your mechanic to have it looked over. (Might be a good idea anyway) Watch his reaction. If he says "fine" chances are he's pretty sure there aren't any problems and you may not get him to budge $1500.00. If he tries to steer you away for that, I'd defiantely do it, then negotiate prices after that.

Take a tire tread gauge, check them out do they need replaced? Figure at LEAST $100.00 each.
Look in the glovebox to see if the manual is there. Did the previous owner kept the service log up-to-date (I have little room to talk here)?
Look for any signs that might tell you the car was driven hard. I think a tell tale sign is the people that put in a rev-limiter light. What need would you have for that in everyday driving? I know some think it look "cool", but it's only cool if you see the light come on, right?

By the way, the post onto Craigslist is gone...

Good Luck...

 

Sorry if I am asking you to repeat yourself.......but, why do you not want a new car?

 

Some people are simply not interested or lured into the "New car smell" thing. Aside from any perceived "financial" advantages about buying used vs new, I also think these folks get some kind of psychological satisfaction from doing so.

Last February I sold my 2004 MCS with 17K miles for $21,900 on a private sale. The people that bought the car from me were not interested in buying new, in fact, these folks appeared to have never purchased a brand new car in their lives. The ended up paying for my MCS as much if they had ordered the same car brand new from the factory, but hey I couldn't argue with their willingness to pay my full asking price .

I am totally the opposite. I refuse to buy an used car. I simply don't like it. All my cars have been purchased brand new, including my MINIs. If I ever buy an used vehicle, it would have to be 1) the bargain of the year 2) some ultra-rare collectible car, like a classic Mini

Like I said, not everyone is into the new car smell.

 

I believe every used car seller has room in the price! The main way to get a lower price is to make a bona fide offer in person with the ability to pay on the spot and be prepared to walk away. Remember, to the seller this is a car they are dying to get rid off just as much as you are dying to get into the car.

Drive the car and comment on every little problem the car has, including any rattle, any scratch, anything worn. Don't complain, just comment.

Don't ask "would you take $___". That is a question, not an offer. Instead say, "I'll give you $___ if I like my mechanic's report. I've already talked with my mechanic, and he can look at it this afternoon. After that I will bring you a cashier's check for $____. You'll have your money this afternoon." Know the most you'll pay and come up no higher than that if they counteroffer. If you cannot agree on price, walk away! They just might come running after you, so make sure they have your phone number.

If you can do all this, you can safely offer anywhere from 10% to 25% less than what they are asking. This has always worked for me (sadly even as a seller!). Remember, this person is selling the car because they want or need to, you need to offer not only to solve that problem but to make the transaction as immediate and painless as possible.

None of this means the car is good or bad, that you need to verify with a competent mechanic who knows the vehicles.

 

When people opt to buy used, they know right off the bat that they simply can't expect 100% perfection. I laugh at people that expect hefty discounts for every little rock chip, paint blemish, etc. When you buy an used vehicle, you'll have to accept a certain degree of wear on the vehicle unless otherwise noted.

My advice is to get a Carfax report with the vehicle's serial VIN Number. The report can be ordered online at www.carfax.com for about $20 bucks and on it you'll find a complete title history on the car. To me this is the safest, best way to determine if the car you are about to purchase is a legitimate machine in good condition, not a vehicle with a salvage or flood title. With the recent rash of hurricanes and floods in the south east, used car buyers should be very wary of vehicles that have sustained flood damage, repaired and re-sold as "good" used cars.

It is customary for the seller to offer to pay for the mechanical inspection if required by the prospective buyer. Also make sure to ask for service/repair records. Often, with the serial VIN number, the service history of any used MINI can be pulled out from any BMW or BMW/MINI dealership computer database in the United States, Canada and Puerto Rico.

Again, if people expect 100% perfection on an used car purchase, perhaps they'll be much better off buying new instead.

 

Have you looked up the Blue book value? Are there any other mods that the owner has made? If they are preformance type mods that you can be sure that the car has been driven hard. Even though the owner states that the tires were recently replaced be sure to measure the tread depth, the Pirelli tire are notorious for wearing out very quickly(8,000 - 12,000 miles) A new tire has 10/32" of tread, the minimum legal tread depth is 3/32" so 7/32" is only half tread.

Check the inside door for wear on the plastic bits, especially where you grab to close the door, also the gray plastic support of the center console, look for wear on those.

Also. be sure to run a Car-Fax check on the Vin number to see if it has ever been in an accident.

I just traded in my very clean '02 MCS with similar specs and 36,700 smile and the dealer offered me $16,000 which translates to an $18,000 sell price. And it needed tires.

I light of the premiums that CA dealers charge the price seems reasonable, maybe even a little too reasonable. Maybe he is trying to hide something.

 

Good advice here especially on Carfax....limited info but it can steer you away from real train wrecks...

Only point I take issue with is it being customary for the seller to offer to pay for mechanical inspection....never heard that one before..

I've sold several cars on my own and currently have one up for sale as I await my new MINI arrival..I have never paid for a mechanical inspection for a prospective buyer nor would I....

Its not that I fear it would not pass, my vehicle is well maintained, but I am not going to shell out inspection fees multiple times for "potential" buyers...very rarely has the first person who has looked at my cars bought on the spot, not unusual to have a few people test drive and take the car for a mechanical inspection before someone buys.....

Now maybe you were talking about a broker vs a private seller, but I don't think anyone expects a private seller to pay for a mechanical inspection thats on the buyer

 

I also would look on ebay's completed auction, it gives you an idea on how much these cars are selling (or more importantly how much people are willing to sell for) I have seen many good deals at "buy it now price". I know alot of the MINI's do not sell, but at least it will give you a ballpark.

I even contacted some of the cars not sold and found that some had actually sold, (the seller will divulge the price sometimes if emailed)
Hope this helps