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I have seen the threads where the dealer asks a lot of money for replacement keys. If that was a simple transaction, that would be best. Now, I have read the dealers do not carry early R53 keys. Mine is a 2004 R53, build date 12/16/03. It has the "2-button" remote. I will document my progress with key cutting, programming the immobilizer transponder chip, and the remote.
First, selecting a key to buy. There are many on ebay, aliexpress, and others that all look the same, but they are not exactly.
The original key: Original key blade, circuit board, shell halves including rfid chip, and roll pin. The buttons have broken and fallen out and I've covered the outside of the shell with adhesive-backed vinyl.
The original RFID chip (the 5-sided gray shape inside the left key half) is labeled PCF7930AS. I believe the term "ID73" is used to identify this specific one, but this may be incorrect. Some people accidentally throw this out, this is needed to start your car. The silver rectangular component above the battery on the PCB has "KYOCERA 315K" written on it. I believe this is the crystal designating the remote's frequency, in the US supposedly we universally use 315MHz. I believe UK uses 433MHz
The more common style of aftermarket shell (2 versions): Shells ordered from 2 different sellers on AliExpress. Each was about $4. On the left, close to the original. On the right, allows the indicator LED to shine through which is a useful feature. Both attach the key blade differently, the roll pin attaches the key to a small plastic insert that clips into the end of the key handle. It's a less stable design. On one of them, the key already "wobbles" and I've only just put it together. Also note the base of the key blade has a 1/2 millimeter cut in 5 mm of it, so the end is thinner. The blade might not swap into other shells as easily. Mini badge for the one on the left must be bought separately, and are sold on size: will be listed as "mini badge 22mm".
The true identical copy of the original shell (probably the one you want): Sold by JingYuQin YanKey. I believe this is direct from the manufacturer as the front of the PCB says "JYQ" on it. This has to be made from the same exact mold as the original, although it also doesn't come with a mini badge. The key blade attaches the exact same way. This version is only sold together with the PCB and RFID immobilizer chip (a PCF 7931). All together was $26. I could not find it available as just an empty shell. EDIT: Search "JingYuChin Mini Key Shell" - you'll find just the shell for around $4.
Second, how do you get into your key and disassemble to swap parts?
Insert a flathead screwdriver into the recess under the keyring hole, and pry off the back cover.
Gently bend outwards one of the two clips on the sides that hold the remote PCB in, and lever out the PCB
Bend the clip holding the immobilizer chip in, and pry the chip out with a small screwdriver
Remove the roll pin by destructively drilling out the plastic on the front shell and pushing it through, or by grabbing the inside of the roll pin with precisely sized screwdriver tip or other small pointy tool, spinning it as you pull it out far enough to be removed with pliers.
If your original key's buttons are broken off or not working, the button components themselves can be desoldered, removed, and replaced with a 3x6x2.5 mm push button microswitch. I bought a reel of 50 on AliExpress for $2.
Third, cutting
I used a local locksmith advertising they do automotive keys. It was helpful that I had the blanks on hand, and had the metal part of the key removed from the plastic (roll pins removed).
Don't show up in person, call first. The locksmith may just as easily come to you.
It cost $65 per key blank. I had 3 done. I believe this is called the ilco HU92 style key blank, just like BMWs of the same era (though those seem to use different immobilizer chips)
Don't use one of the switchblade style key fobs for sale for mini online; they do not fit into the door lock.
The process looks like a CNC mill, much more sophisticated than a hardware store cutter for house keys
I saw a service on ebay offering cutting a new blank from a picture of your key, charging $55, and sending you the new shell with cut key blade. They are in Taiwan. No clue which shell they use, probably the cheaper ones. Still, if it works, cheaper than the locksmith I used, and you don't need to leave home.
Fourth, programming
I have yet to sort this out. Both the immobilizer and the remote need to be programmed in different processes.
I have bought a Foxwell NT530 Plus BMW scanner for $160 and hope it will program at least the immobilizers.
Some have reported success with the older and cheaper Foxwell NT510 Plus.
I will report back here with results.
What to do with your trashed old key shell?
I covered the face with the broken buttons with adhesive-backed vinyl "grip tape". I bought a sheet on ebay for another project and cut it to size.
I removed the PCB to swap into one of the above replacement shells
I filled in the area where the PCB was with 1/8 inch of epoxy, so the button holes wouldn't feel like holes through the adhesive vinyl. (Below, far right)
This created a remote-less key, which Mini themselves used to sell, unfortunately even theirs was same size as the key with remote.
For a remote-less key, one could try a small 2000-2006 BMW X5 transponder key, as below. Looks like the appropriate (ID73?) immobilizer chip may fit, but the blade can't be swapped and this blade while also a HU92 has an extra longitudinal cut in it.
I was not able to program the new immobilizer/transponder chips on the new keys with the Foxwell NT530 Plus scanner.
It could see that there was a key, and that the key 'transmits' but gave an error:
"The active key (key in ignition lock) sends faulty data. In order to display the keys used to date in this vehicle, the active key (key in ignition lock) must NOT be disabled and should send valid data. Use a DIFFERENT key."
Live data showed that the values for "Key identification", "Key password", "Key random code" all came up as "not O.K.". "Current key number" was "unknown". "Key transmits" was "Yes". "Key disabled" was "No".
I will further research how to program the immobilizers. I found a facebook post which stated success with a 3-button key with "AK90" EWS reader and "AK90" software. The device appears to plug into the EWS module (removed from the car) and wirelessly interface with the immobilizer. The post didn't go into detail on how to use the software so there's nothing for me to summarize. It said the software was difficult to run on Windows and required disabling firewall/antivirus but once it ran it was straight forward. He used an "ID44 transponder or PCF7930/5." He shared the screenshot below:
AK90 software, photo taken from a facebook post
I was able to program the remote fob function on the new PCBs (I think) with the help of this post. The applicable menu in the Foxwell device was "Log remote control key on and off". In summary, the new PCBs will have a sticker on them with some numbers. The image below shows which numbers need to be input into the Foxwell scanner when it asks for each code:
Yes, the encryption code really starts with 10 "F's" in a row.
The Foxwell NT510 instructed me to consult the owner's manual and perform the sequence to "pair" the remote with the car. From what I've read elsewhere, this involves switching the key on to position 1, turning it off and removing the key before 5 seconds, then holding the unlock button while pressing the lock button 3 times, then release both buttons. Then put the key back in and turn to position 1.
My driver's lock actuator isn't working and other posts online say it must work for the remote function to work. I will rebuild my door lock actuator motor and investigate further.
The Foxwell scanner also allowed me to read the basic code, variable code, and encryption code of the one original remote key I have, which I have recorded if I ever need it, as it's not printed on the original PCB.
It appears you may have up to 4 remote fobs programmed at any given time, versus 10 ignition keys (immobilizer transponder chips).
This site has some information on decoding used key fobs' basic/variable/encryption codes, as well as some stated procedures for pairing the remotes: Mini and Land Rover Remote Keys
None of those pairing procedures worked for me, although it's likely because one of my door lock actuators is out.
Key badge update
The cheap aftermarket badge stickers fit poorly (see below). They are too big and required trimming on all sides in order to fit the insert for them which has raised edges. I may have had better looking results if I just cut off the raised edges of the insert so the sticker would not need corners trimmed.
The stickers themselves were adhesive backed but the inserts they stick on do not secure themselves to the key fob. I glued in the inserts with B-7000 glue, which acts like a hot glue in that it's easily removable later on.
To-Do:
AK90 programming of immobilizer transponder chips
Fix door lock actuator to further investigate remote function
EDIT: Fixed the broken door lock actuator (replaced the electric motor within). Still none of the 3 remotes (including one which is likely original to the car) will work, despite the codes from all 3 being programmed in the ZKE module.
Factory service information freely available on Charm.li or lemon-manuals.la describes that process of holding unlock and pressing lock 3 times as only applicable to models after 7/2004. My build date is in 2003, so I think it should just need the keys programmed into the ZKE. The owner's manual says to EITHER press lock or unlock 4x, OR with the doors unlocked and closed, turn the ignition on and then off and press the mini button then the lock button. NONE of these processes are working for any of my keys. I'm not sure what to try next. I may not be able to get working remotes.
The cheap aftermarket badge stickers fit poorly (see below). They are too big and required trimming on all sides in order to fit the insert for them which has raised edges. I may have had better looking results if I just cut off the raised edges of the insert so the sticker would not need corners trimmed.
The stickers themselves were adhesive backed but the inserts they stick on do not secure themselves to the key fob. I glued in the inserts with B-7000 glue, which acts like a hot glue in that it's easily removable later on.
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Just as a side note regarding the Wings badge stickers:
Since many aftermarket FOB's /clamshell's may not come with the little badges and have to be ordered online/China - I recommend brushing a thin coat of clear nail polish over them after applying. That will aide in preventing the decal from wearing out prematurely....Rather than having to reorder them when the indicia wears out.
Just a thought/my preference.
Thanks for your perseverance on this matter.
Great write-up!
Bruce from MINI Key Hospital here.
I repair MINI keys on the side and would like to weigh in on a few points. I've been repairing the various types of MINI keys for over 15 years.
1- Regarding the shells, avoid the ones with the “notch” in the back and the small plastic piece on the blade. My overseas supplier sent me a bunch of those one time and I still have the vast majority stuffed in a box somewhere. The style on the right in the second picture of your first post is almost a direct copy of the Valeo “Tempest Keyhead” (the name given to the original circuit board) shell used in Rover and Land Rover (and some MG) models in the late 1990's. The blade was different than the HU92 blade used on a MINI but otherwise it closely resembles that shell. The shell on the left is a poor aftermarket mash up of an OEM MINI shell and the Rover shell. They don't work well if at all because the “wings” button is out of place and doesn't push the board mounted microswitch down properly. No MINI was ever sold with one of those “notch” shells. Avoid avoid avoid.
2- Your third picture in the original post does have a proper OEM shell. “flipkey” on eBay sells a very well finished and high quality shell; I know this because I used one of them on my very first key repair which was my own and the shell is still in good condition. They aren't cheap but if you don't want the DIY hassle they are worth it. The shells I use in my repair work are also of high quality and are well finished by yours truly, down to the metal wings.
3- Cutting: $65 to cut a key blank is outrageous. I'm not a full time locksmith with a brick and mortar store, mobile units and employees but still, that's crazy money for a key cut. I only cut blanks when I'm doing a key repair but even then it's only $10. There's nothing special about cutting these keys; I have an automated cutter that reads the key, compares it against a database of keys for that manufacturer and cuts to the original specifications, not to your worn key. Yes, the key machine was expensive but it's a time saver (you can do other things while it's cutting the key!) and it has eliminated customer complaints about cut keys that don't work, allowing me to increase the number of keys I repair. $20 to $25 is the most I would charge even if I was a locksmith; even at that price a key machine should pay for itself in no time. $65!
3a- Switchblade keys: Yes, they do work, I have just finished a customer key and am preparing another one. Here in the U.S., they only fit into the lock with the “wings up” as they are an aftermarket key and the MINI door handle was never designed to accept this type of key. The key to my (currently SORN) R50 is a switchblade key and it works perfectly.
4- I like the grip tape idea to cover up the missing buttons and bits of the old shell if it's still in good enough shape. As it is this key will only open and close the door lock but if you program another immobilizer chip (I believe the correct chip type is “ID44”) you can make yourself a second, non remote key. My wife and I both have this type of key (from MINI) for our two R50's and you can stash a $20 in the shell for emergencies, such as gas money if you find a place that can't accept a card for some reason.
5- Programming: As you have discovered, it's very difficult with these keys, requiring a different procedure for the immobilizer chip and the remote board itself. I believe that Autel makes a very expensive key programmer that will do both but it's thousands of dollars and requires a subscription to write to immobilizer chips. I believe that whole business is to cut down on car theft but I'm not sure it's actually doing anything.
5a- Yes, an AK-90 device will write the correct ID44 immobilizer chip for the two and three button MINI keys as well as the round ones for the second generation cars (from what I have heard). Factory three button keys and the round keys have the immobilizer chips as part of the circuit board but the aftermarket ones have an outboard chip.
5b- Your MINI must be coded to accept commands from a new (OEM or aftermarket) two button key. The sequence you saw was for “re-pairing” if the key gets out of step with the car where the rolling code is concerned. This sequence will NOT pair a two button key with a car for the first time. MINI dealers could do this for an additional charge when you purchased a replacement or second key as they had the correct programming computer. They will not, however, do it with your aftermarket key for some reason. You can also use one of those AUTEL devices or a program called “easyDIS v.44” which apparently runs on Windows XP(!) and is difficult to set up and use. I'm currently trying to do that and it's not easy.
5c- Door lock actuators- cool you fixed yours but for everybody else, just get new OEM ones. The early cars, especially the pre-facelift cars have very cheap, poorly built actuators as well as very cheap, fragile door lock cylinders. If you have an early car and can still get a new door lock cylinder (it's a “coded” part so it may not still be available) get one as insurance for when yours breaks. The actuators were used in the second generation MINIs so they are still available and are much better built as compared to the early ones.
6- Your car's remote receiver may have become wet and corroded which would prevent your keys from working. It's either in the mirror, above the mirror or under one of the rear windows. Might be something to check.
