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Team, if already been discussed please direct me there :-)We need a 5 bolt wheel hub that we can “adapt” to accommodate the mounting holes in steering knuckle for GEN 2.
Ive already solved 5 lugs for rear.
TIA :-)
yeah expensive I know but F this 4x100 bolt pattern.
Last edited by pkgmSu2000; Jan 28, 2026 at 11:49 AM.
Team, if already been discussed please direct me there :-)We need a 5 bolt wheel hub that we can “adapt” to accommodate the mounting holes in steering knuckle for GEN 2.
Ive already solved 5 lugs for rear.
TIA :-)
yeah expensive I know but F this 4x100 bolt pattern.
You never mentioned what size the 5 lug pattern needs to be, there are many adapters but range in cost depending on which pattern. If you use 5x120 like the Countrymans pattern, there are adapters HERE
You never mentioned what size the 5 lug pattern needs to be, there are many adapters but range in cost depending on which pattern. If you use 5x120 like the Countrymans pattern, there are adapters HERE
You never mentioned what size the 5 lug pattern needs to be, there are many adapters but range in cost depending on which pattern. If you use 5x120 like the Countrymans pattern, there are adapters HERE
1.5" per side, Im guessing he wanted other wheel options. With the right offset, it shouldnt be a problem.
I have 1.5" spacers on my rear and 1" in the front...but I have a wide body kit. If hes not lowered, he should be fine - maybe a bit of rubbing on large bumps.
THIS set says its 18mm THESE seem like they are the thinnest version @ 15mm a piece.
1.5" per side, Im guessing he wanted other wheel options. With the right offset, it shouldnt be a problem.
I have 1.5" spacers on my rear and 1" in the front...but I have a wide body kit. If hes not lowered, he should be fine - maybe a bit of rubbing on large bumps.
THIS set says its 18mm THESE seem like they are the thinnest version @ 15mm a piece.
Thx for helping us start to see what’s possible here, the links are so much appreciated. I wonder if there is any kind of return policy if this isn’t the solution in the links
corrrct, more wheel options, and I’ve got coilovers but im not slammed low in any way. But I am seeking a flush wheel fitment.
ND Miata’s wear 4x100 wheels, so there are quite a few 17” options available, even some that will fit over big brake kits. A light weight 17x8 wheel with a 215/45-17 summer performance tire and the car will handle pretty dang well. Unless you are looking for something pretty specific…
ND Miata’s wear 4x100 wheels, so there are quite a few 17” options available, even some that will fit over big brake kits. A light weight 17x8 wheel with a 215/45-17 summer performance tire and the car will handle pretty dang well. Unless you are looking for something pretty specific…
no hating at all, just not a fan of the spokey wheels that are on so many cars today. Looking for something different. Definitely more 5 Star but… yall gonna laugh at this lol but I’d love so so much to have OEM “holey” wheels 17x7.5 with about ET 30 for max 17 lbs. love the phone dial holes :-)
Mind sharing what your solution for the rear axle is?
The front hubs look they would be simple to redrill as the pad is a uniform thickness. Rear isn’t so I don’t know what to do with those.
I’d prefer 5x114 but 5x120 is fine.
Currently using a 17x9 (245/40) intended for Miatas so they need spacers to fit and was planning on ordering a custom wheel set to have correct offsets and caliper clearance without resorting to spacers…
Mind sharing what your solution for the rear axle is?
The front hubs look they would be simple to redrill as the pad is a uniform thickness. Rear isn’t so I don’t know what to do with those.
I’d prefer 5x114 but 5x120 is fine.
Currently using a 17x9 (245/40) intended for Miatas so they need spacers to fit and was planning on ordering a custom wheel set to have correct offsets and caliper clearance without resorting to spacers…
im doing R59 Kswap AWD. Im using the R53 steel trailing arms and got a guy who is welding on adapter plates and S1
wheel hubs.
*** R53 guys, that means im selling my lightweight R56 trailing arms ;-)
Why not use the R60 RTA with an R56 toe bracket? It would only need a very simple plate welded on to move its location further forward to make up for the R60 arm being slightly longer.
Why not use the R60 RTA with an R56 toe bracket? It would only need a very simple plate welded on to move its location further forward to make up for the R60 arm being slightly longer.
this is how everyone used to do
it, but for AWD you want R53 steel arms over the lighter weight aluminum or whatever the R60 material is….
just mount the R60 front wheel hub to the R59 front steering knuckle????Maybe need the R60 front rotors too?
R59 and R60 look same 4-bolt mounting pattern to me see pics :-)
Considering how much butchering you're doing to the car with an AWD K-swap, it might be worth a try. You might have to get the knuckles machined to fit the R60 hub, but I don't know for sure. If I were in your shoes, I might be tempted to buy some cheap R60 hubs from RockAuto and test them out. You are probably already getting custom axels made to fit, so just make sure they fit the hub.
FYI: the R60 AWD uses the same hub / bearing in the front and rear.
Considering how much butchering you're doing to the car with an AWD K-swap, it might be worth a try. You might have to get the knuckles machined to fit the R60 hub, but I don't know for sure. If I were in your shoes, I might be tempted to buy some cheap R60 hubs from RockAuto and test them out. You are probably already getting custom axels made to fit, so just make sure they fit the hub.
FYI: the R60 AWD uses the same hub / bearing in the front and rear.
