Navigation & Audio Planning my install...
I'm planning on installing Focal 165K components in the doors, a JL Audio 300/4 amp in the boot along with either a JL Audio Stealthbox or a small sub box.
I've searched this forum and have read I'm looking for any tips, hints, bewares from anyone who has made this type of upgrade. Where did you run your signal wires? How much of the interior must be removed?
This will be my first attempt at an install like this so any help is appreciated!
I've searched this forum and have read I'm looking for any tips, hints, bewares from anyone who has made this type of upgrade. Where did you run your signal wires? How much of the interior must be removed?
This will be my first attempt at an install like this so any help is appreciated!
Ok, since you've got an S, one thing to pay attention to is wire routing. Route all wires down the passenger side, as the main wire harness from the battery in the trunk is on the driver's side.
...and don't be afraid to go hog wild....

R
...and don't be afraid to go hog wild....


R
Actually DAVBRET, I AM afraid of going hog wild!!
I'd like to keep this thing stealth and retain the use of my boot. ( that boot thing sounds funny in America )
I am wondering if 6" subs (JL 6W0) would work well in the factory 6X9 locations? Here's a question for anyone who has replaced the factory rears....
How much room is behind the speaker and would it be easy to 'seal' the area for a subs?
I'd like to keep this thing stealth and retain the use of my boot. ( that boot thing sounds funny in America )
I am wondering if 6" subs (JL 6W0) would work well in the factory 6X9 locations? Here's a question for anyone who has replaced the factory rears....
How much room is behind the speaker and would it be easy to 'seal' the area for a subs?
>>Actually DAVBRET, I AM afraid of going hog wild!!
>>
>>I'd like to keep this thing stealth and retain the use of my boot. ( that boot thing sounds funny in America )
>>
>>I am wondering if 6" subs (JL 6W0) would work well in the factory 6X9 locations? Here's a question for anyone who has replaced the factory rears....
>>How much room is behind the speaker and would it be easy to 'seal' the area for a subs?
Hey mn_leaf_fan
Look around the audio section postings... you will find your questions have all been answered.
Everything you want to do is very possible.
My MCS:
-Alpine CDA-7894 CD-R/RW, MP3, cd changer
-XM Radio
-JL Audio XR525-CSi 5 1/4 front component speakers and tweets
-JL Audio XR650-CXi 6 1/2s replacing the stock 6x9s
-JL Audio 10W7-3 10inch subwoofer in custom box
-JL Audio 300/4 and 500/1 amps under 4inch false floor in trunk
>>
>>I'd like to keep this thing stealth and retain the use of my boot. ( that boot thing sounds funny in America )
>>
>>I am wondering if 6" subs (JL 6W0) would work well in the factory 6X9 locations? Here's a question for anyone who has replaced the factory rears....
>>How much room is behind the speaker and would it be easy to 'seal' the area for a subs?
Hey mn_leaf_fan
Look around the audio section postings... you will find your questions have all been answered.
Everything you want to do is very possible.
My MCS:
-Alpine CDA-7894 CD-R/RW, MP3, cd changer
-XM Radio
-JL Audio XR525-CSi 5 1/4 front component speakers and tweets
-JL Audio XR650-CXi 6 1/2s replacing the stock 6x9s
-JL Audio 10W7-3 10inch subwoofer in custom box
-JL Audio 300/4 and 500/1 amps under 4inch false floor in trunk
I did do some searches and found post where people have replaced the rear speakers but not with subs that require a sealed enclosure. I'd hate to remove the whole interior of the car just to find out that the subs won't work....
Geeze...(trying to remember how deep those back wells were)...I think they were about 5" at least. It'd be pretty hard to seal it up. There is basically the outer wall which is painted on the outside of car, and an inner wall that has the oval opening for the 6x9...pretty much open between the two walls. Does that make any sense? You'd have to seal it on all four sides, which is daunting. You could always make a large fiberglass "cup" that fits into the opening and mount the speaker to that, thereby making the cup the enclosure. Hmmm. I went with 4 way 6x9s for extra rear fill. I like it loud, clear and dynamic.
R
R
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Thanks DAVBRET, that's the kind of info I am looking for ( and suspected ).
I have heard of one solution where you use one of those foam baffles ( to keep you speaker dry ) and then fiberglass over it to make it stiff. Would make for a pretty small enclosure though....
I have heard of one solution where you use one of those foam baffles ( to keep you speaker dry ) and then fiberglass over it to make it stiff. Would make for a pretty small enclosure though....
>>Thanks DAVBRET, that's the kind of info I am looking for ( and suspected ).
>>I have heard of one solution where you use one of those foam baffles ( to keep you speaker dry ) and then fiberglass over it to make it stiff. Would make for a pretty small enclosure though....
It's hard to describe but if you stick your hand into the 6x9 opening you could actually run something from there out to the cubby hole on that side, so it's not sealed at all. replacement 6x9s add a lot of punch, it's not subwoofer punch. But you might be happy with it, if not a small 8inch sub does not take up much room relatively speaking.
i installed the 165Ks, you need at least a 3/4 inch spacer to clear the window works.
>>I have heard of one solution where you use one of those foam baffles ( to keep you speaker dry ) and then fiberglass over it to make it stiff. Would make for a pretty small enclosure though....
It's hard to describe but if you stick your hand into the 6x9 opening you could actually run something from there out to the cubby hole on that side, so it's not sealed at all. replacement 6x9s add a lot of punch, it's not subwoofer punch. But you might be happy with it, if not a small 8inch sub does not take up much room relatively speaking.
i installed the 165Ks, you need at least a 3/4 inch spacer to clear the window works.
That is another option too. JL has a 8" "infinite baffle" sub ( 8IB4 ) that might fit. From what I can gather it needs about 4.75" of depth and a 7" round mounting hole. Would require a bit of metal trimming of the 6X9 opening.
I'm hoping to use the rear locations for some subs so that I can keep the space in the boot. ADVANTAGE has mounted some Focal 5WS subs in a custom box that sits on the parcel shelf that I am hoping he will share pictures of.... that solution sounds interesting too.
I'm hoping to use the rear locations for some subs so that I can keep the space in the boot. ADVANTAGE has mounted some Focal 5WS subs in a custom box that sits on the parcel shelf that I am hoping he will share pictures of.... that solution sounds interesting too.
Here is a link to a MINI2 thread with crashed cars. Down the page a bit is a picture of a MINI with the outer skin removed. It makes it pretty obvious how the 6x9 mounting area is. Enjoy. 
http://www.mini2.com/forum/showthrea...threadid=20683
R

http://www.mini2.com/forum/showthrea...threadid=20683
R
WOW. Those are some scary pictures!
Thanks for the info Davbret. That one picture answers a lot of questions. I don't think 'trimming' the metal to fit an 8" sub is possible, and sealing the area looks like a huge project!
Thanks for the info Davbret. That one picture answers a lot of questions. I don't think 'trimming' the metal to fit an 8" sub is possible, and sealing the area looks like a huge project!
Why not use some Great Stuff foam to seal all sides and create a decent sized "enclosure", then once that's cured, line the whole enclosure with Dynamat. Add some acoustic filler - instant subwoofer chamber.
Stupid idea?
Stupid idea?
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