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This item is guidance from TIS: "Wheel bolts must be renewed as soon as flat areas > 30% of the supporting conical surface (1) on the screw head no longer have a dark coating or silver-coloured wear is visible!"
So 2 questions.
(1) Are you paying attention to this and are you following this guidance?
(2) If you replace your lug bolts with aftermarket, how do you translate this wear monitoring rule for whatever aftermarket part you're using?
Just changed my car out to studs and nuts. Much better if change tires frequently. Highly recommend.
I rotate like clockwork every 5k miles and I also seem to be popping at least the RF wheel off to get at "engine stuff" on a regular basis. Probably had at least that wheel off the car at least 6-8x in 2023...
I like the wheel stud installation I completed a great deal. So much better to be able to just hang the wheel on the studs as opposed to using the threaded rod and the lining up the bolt.
I like the wheel stud installation I completed a great deal. So much better to be able to just hang the wheel on the studs as opposed to using the threaded rod and the lining up the bolt.
Good point. I hate dealing with the whole line-up routine with the no-stud arrangement.
https://neuspeed.com/collections/min...conversion-kit
I went with the Neuspeed offering because I got some brake parts on the same order. Installed with Loctite and for the first few autocross events they have been wonderful. Yes it is $200.00 but it is a deal changer for frequent tire changing. Prior to the studs I had one of those threaded rod "hangers" and that certainly is helpful but the stud conversion is the hot ticket.
https://neuspeed.com/collections/min...conversion-kit
I went with the Neuspeed offering because I got some brake parts on the same order. Installed with Loctite and for the first few autocross events they have been wonderful. Yes it is $200.00 but it is a deal changer for frequent tire changing. Prior to the studs I had one of those threaded rod "hangers" and that certainly is helpful but the stud conversion is the hot ticket.
Very nice. And I appreciate your mention that these are going through autocross events. My MINI doesn't get pushed like that -- so if they can handle yours, they can handle mine LOL.
I just found a spot - Uro Tuning - to land these for $152, free S/H. I owe you a beer!
@johnnys2quick what torque spec are you using (1) to install the studs in the hub and (2) to install the lug nuts? Oddly in Neuspeed's stack of PDFs there doesn't seem to be a doc for the studs... or if there is, I'm not finding it in the stack.
@johnnys2quick what torque spec are you using (1) to install the studs in the hub and (2) to install the lug nuts? Oddly in Neuspeed's stack of PDFs there doesn't seem to be a doc for the studs... or if there is, I'm not finding it in the stack.
You don't have to over think it. Thread the stud into the hub down to the shoulder. It should slightly protrude out the back of the hub flange. You don't need to worry about torque on these, the lug nuts will hold everything together when torqued. Then, mount the wheel, and torque to Mini specs of ~95 ft-lbs.
Agree about not overthinking this and I torqued the studs to 80 ft lbs . used blue lock tight because red scares me lol. I torque the the nuts to 100 but 95 is plenty. Had the car tuned by Lou and it so much quicker this year. Actually completive now and still better than me.
I have a stud conversion on my R55 clubman. Studs are finger tight, no loctite, nuts torqued to 95 ft-lbs. Been running like this for 4 years maybe? Never had a nut come loose.
https://neuspeed.com/collections/min...conversion-kit
I went with the Neuspeed offering because I got some brake parts on the same order. Installed with Loctite and for the first few autocross events they have been wonderful. Yes it is $200.00 but it is a deal changer for frequent tire changing. Prior to the studs I had one of those threaded rod "hangers" and that certainly is helpful but the stud conversion is the hot ticket.
Sanity check me here -- I'm doing install right now.
The full length of the factory lug bolts on my F56S is 46mm. So the exposed stud length is going to stick out a bit here, by about 9mm, and I can absolutely see this difference. Measurement backs up the stated overall stud length in the spec above.
Installed, studs threaded in as far as they'll go (short end before the knuckle in -- the long end is way too deep and the wheel definitely wouldn't spin freely), nuts hand tight View from above showing stud extension beyond wheel face Factory lug bolt (46mm) vs stud length (75mm)
Last edited by cjv2; May 12, 2024 at 06:35 PM.
Reason: add pics
Looks right to me. Studs are typically longer to ensure you get the correct nut torque, and so you can run spacers. Those look like they will handle a 15mm spacer.
