I've lowered my 2010 very moderately. about an inch total all the way around.

I want to get adjustable end links for the front as well as the rear. I was looking around and trying see what size I needed and someone said I need end links that are roughly 1 inch SHORTER than stock for the rear and end links that are roughly 1 inch LONGER in the front.

This seems wrong but I do not know as much about suspension as I do motors. Why would the front get LONGER end links when lowering a car?

 

It has to do with how the links attach to the bar and the control arm. In the rear, the bar sits above the link while on the front it sits below. When you lower the car, the front sway bar sits lower and further from its attachment point on the coilover/strut. The rear bar gets lower, but closer to it's attachment point on the rear swing arm.

 

so, it stands to reason then... if I've lowered my car 1 inch then I need 1 inch longer up front and 1 inch shorter in the rear... correct?

 

Honestly, in not sure they are needed just to lower the car. Mine is lowered about 1.5" and I'm still on the factory links. I'm not sure they are needed unless you are going for a more tuned suspension setup. Someone with more experience can chime in here, but for a daily, I don't think it will matter if you use adjustable links or not.

 

I'm lowered almost 2" from stock, and still running OEM end links. Not needed. Run the links you have until you start to hear minor clunking when traversing uneven pavement, then get fresh OEM links.

 

When you are really dropped on coilovers you will need the adjustable endlinks to keep the bar from hitting/clanking . Some coilovers include them as they have more drop. If you are not slammed you should be ok. Check the bar location after you lower to see where you are.

 

Normally, I wouldn't, but... I disagree with you on this one. I purchased Bilstein B14s, which come with replacement front end links. Before installation, I set the spring collars to the low end of the recommended adjustment range. They were L O W. Like, 2" lower than stock low. I rubbed on everything. Had to raise them up, and they are still relatively low. Back to the point about coming with replacement end links... The end links that come with the B14s are EXACTLY the same length as the OEM links. So close to OEM length that I almost didn't put them on the car because I had just replaced the OEM links before getting the B14s. So now I have the OEM length B14 end links in the front, and OEM links in the rear. B14s obviously at each corner, and an H&R rear sway bar. And guess what? NO clunking, contact, or even so much as a whiff of interference.

So, I stand by my recommendation that adjustable end links are not needed.

 

Understand.

Slammed kits we saw it on past ~3", those other non slammed (Bilstein, Ohlins, KW ) kits don't seem to have issues on the fronts but include them as they are not super low kits. Thats what we saw when we installed them.

 

It's not the end of the world if you use your factory end links if you were to use drop springs that only lower your car maybe 1.5". However, it's highly recommended that you use adjustable end links and set them "properly" for the lowered height. Most enthusiasts adjust the adjustable end links to the factory height and install them but that truly defeats the purpose. If not set properly, you're causing stress on the sway and causing a load when there should not be one. At a neutral position while driving (driving straight) there should be no load on the sway bay but when the end link is not set properly you can either be pulling or pushing on the ends of the sway bar which causes load. The load should only be present when the vehicle is turning.

Most don't know how to adjust them properly and it's not very hard at all. Truth be told, without a lift that can lift the entire vehicle on it's wheels, it's a pain in the @ss but not impossible. The first thing you want to do is yes, adjust the endlinks to the factory height of the OEM links but DO NOT tighten the jam nut. This is just a starting point. Once you set your vehicle height to where you like it, install the end links (REMEMBER THE JAM NUTS SHOULD BE NOT TIGHTENED) and lower the vehicle with the weight of the vehicle on the wheels. Make sure the ground is level as much as possible. This is the hard part now.... You have to find the neutral position of the end link. With the jam nuts loose, spin the end link all the way counter clockwise until there is significant resistance and then stop. This is your starting point, then spin the end link clockwise (KEEP COUNT OF EACH TURN) and stop once you feel significant resistance again. Then spin counter clockwise 1/2 the # of turns. For example, if you count 20 revolutions, then go back 10. This is the neutral point that is the middle of the resistance. Take notice that the end of the sway bar will rise or lower with each turn. Do this for each corner. Don't forget to hand tighten the jam nuts once each neutral position is found and when done, raise the car back up to where you can easily access and tool tighten the jam nut.

Now you're probably wondering, how the heck do I get under the car and adjust the end links without a platform lift. I didn't have a lift and I borrowed a set of my friends Rhino Ramps so I can raise the car and put the front wheels on a set of Rhino Ramps and then also the back wheels. If you do this, make sure that the ramps are identical because if one is higher than the other, then your adjustments will be off. The other option is to make wheel stands out of wood. They don't have to be tall either. My ramps only lifted the car about 9 inches and I was able to get under to adjust the end links properly.

Below is a video that can give you a visual idea of how it works. I send this video to all who have the same interest and curiosity of how end link adjustments work. Also is an example of how you can lift your car and then set it back down with weight on its wheels but give you clearance to get under for adjustments.