Thanks for reading and thanks in advance for you help

My daughters 2009 non-Turbo w 80k miles.
It will not start -- engine turns over, but not a spit or a sputter or a cough or a gurgle. Just spinning. Background ----

It started running horrible with DTC p00300,301,302,303,304. I could not figure it out so I brought it to a trusted mechanic. Diagnosis was a clogged Catalytic converter. I brought it back home and replaced the Catalytic converter and both O2 Sensors myself. The job went well, but I did have an event. I forgot to disconnect the battery and touched the alternator with a wrench releasing sparks.

After the repair the car will not start. There are no DTC codes being collected. I did disconnect the O2 sensors and the ECM threw codes for Open O2 Heater circuit which went away when they were reconnected. I checked every fuse and fusible link. Everything electrical seems to work.

I put a spark detector on the plugs and they are all flashing. So I moved to the Fuel

The main fuel rail is measuring 55 PSI at the Schrader valve.

Looking through the Bentley publishers service manual, I found the test scenario for the DME Main Relay circuit (pg 130-22) I couldn't follow it per the letter, but it is getting voltage. I pulled it out and when I put it back in with the power on I could hear an audible click, so it seems to be getting energized. I do not have a NOID light so I cannot prove it is not getting a Fuel injector pulse, but that seems to be all that is left. Is the NOID light the next step?

Any suggestions? I am kind of at a loss.

 

Update: I went out an bought a NOID light. It does not blink.

Any help on what to check next. Have I gotten to a blown ECM?

 

@wajulia ,

Before you replace the DME as the end result, check the OHM resistance on each of your fuel injectors and check the power going to the injectors. If the ohm is reading "0" then your injector(s) are bad.

 

A follow up

I sent the DME and CAS to ECU Pro for testing and repair. The report came back with No Fault Found. They even included a video of my computers in his test vehicle which ran fine with my parts

I did notice that the battery voltage after charging was 11.7V. Can that lower voltage stop the car from starting -- I replaced the battery because that seems to be a sign of a battery in the later part of its life. Waiting for the DME and CAS to return, so I have not tried it with the new battery

When I do get the parts back I will retest the spark and fuel injector pulse and try to find what is stopping the FE pulse (if it is still not happening)

I have not measured the resistance of the FI's yet because of the difficulty in getting to them. But it was running prior to me changing the Catalytic converter

 

@wajulia ,

Since you replaced with a new battery, just make sure you register your new battery.

 

So I got the ECU back, put it in the car and still got nothing. Rechecked everything I could think of. Then I brought it to a local trusted mechanic. They reported that there was a loose dirty ground. Seems strange to me since it was running when all this started, but it runs now -- so I guess it was a loose ground.

NEW THING

Car runs fantastic when it is warm. Better than it has as long as I have owned it. Responsive and quick. HOWEVER, it does not run when it is cold. Stutters and hesitates.

The shop I brought it to said they put a smoke tester on it and saw some smoke come from the back of the engine, they did not hunt it down because they wanted to minimize my bill and new that I could do it. I will chase down any leaks and see if that makes it go away.