R52 :: Cabrio Talk (2005-2008) Cooper and Cooper S convertible (R52) discussion.

R52 No crank but full power after battery replacement

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Old Jan 29, 2024 | 02:50 AM
  #1  
ii-Stingray-ii's Avatar
ii-Stingray-ii
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No crank but full power after battery replacement

Before I begin: I've searched multiple forums trying to see if someone out there has the same problem as me, and it seems the solutions provided are too simple (like check corrosion on your battery, etc.), or the problem never gets solved... even so, I believe my situation is unique, which warrants a post to these forums, and I'm hoping someone besides uncle Joe with his shady-tree mechanic operation can get on and help. P.s., no offense to Uncle Joe, as you've definitely helped me fix the obvious I've looked right past before lol.

TL,DR: Replaced battery, engine started a couple times, but now wont start, even after registering battery and clearing codes.

Situation: 07 R52 (cooper S conv. w/ super) has been struggling maintaining a charge for a couple winters now. It's gotten so bad I finally decided to look at the battery. I've owned the car for about five years, and have never even seen the battery, so I naturally assumed the battery as the likely culprit (especially since the problem is exaggerated when it's cold). The replacement is an AutoZone Gold-something, which I think it has about 50 more CCA than the old battery.

I'll take a moment and note that I think I've replaced a dozen batteries over the years so let's not get into the "gotta take off the negative lead first" stuff lol.

Anyway, got the new battery in and fired her up. Easy peasy. Since I was doing other emissions stuff (repairing vacuum hoses, etc), I decided to take her on a 40-mile drive to see if I couldn't get some codes to clear on their own.

Long story short, the results aren't what I expected them to be, so I returned home. The next morning I went to go somewhere, and the car is flat dead... but wait... I just replaced the battery... it can't be dead. All the lights are working, cabin chime is chirping, everything is working as it should, but I'm not getting any starter engagement at all. All I notice is a faint whine to a motor I've never heard before (which I quickly conclude it must be the fuel pump or the oil cooler fan I've never heard before because it's drowned out by thr noise of the engine running).

After doing some research online, I've determined the cause must be some sort of ECU lockout due to me replacing the battery and not programming the ECU for the new battery. I call the dealership and they give me the typical "bring it in and we'll diagnose it" runaround. So, after more searching, I decide to buy a BMW/Mini-specific OBD-II code reader/programmer and give it a try. After all, people on the University of YouTube are showing how easy it is to tell thr ECU you've got a new battery... it can't be that difficult...

Well... I still can't get the car to engage the starter.

Before we get into "didja pour baking soda on the battery terminals" responses, let me share with y'all what I did do/check/try:
  • Brand-new battery with a slightly higher CCA rating than the previous battery.
  • Voltage at battery is within spec.
  • Checked every fuse (both in the engine bay and the left-side compartment, or driver's side for us North Americans).
  • Unplugged the ignition coupler and ran a continuity test on the ignition switch.
  • Tested the immobilizer by inserting a spare key with the chip removed and confirmed no response from the ECU.
  • Cleared all codes and reset the battery indicator with a purported Mini-specific scanner tool.
  • Disconnected the battery and let it sit for 30 minutes before reconnecting it
Reasons why I don't think this is a common problem:
  1. After initially replacing the battery, I was able to start it a couple times (while checking my repair work), and took it out on the road. It was only after it had driven for sometime and sat overnight that it started having problems.
  2. Starter and/or relay doesn't sound like it's even attempting to engage, so this tells me it's software-related, and not necessarily a mechanical failure.
  3. In my experience, starters don't just instantly die. So there is a high probability it's not the starter. I also can't imagine any possible situation where having an electrical system sit overnight would cause some environment where something would short out and kill the relay.
I apologize if I sound a little arrogant. I really am stumped by this issue and am open to ideas/suggestions. I guess I'm just irritated that these forums often degrade into apparent mental laziness in their posts, and with a degree in Mechanical Engineering and about 20 years of experience wrenching on cars underneath shady trees, I really hope I have made a high-caliber thread that will attract and warrant high-caliber responses. I'm also hoping that someone else out there in the same boat as me will find this post and find it useful, rather than getting lost in all the literary beer cans, if you know what I mean.

This is where I beg for help and say some catch-phrase of how y'all are my only hope, but I'm pretty sure that's already copyrighted . Thanks in advance!

P.S., My only suspicion at this point is what the quality of my OBD-II scanning tool is at, as it's a $70 Amazon Special straight from China. Has any one else suffered at the hands of cheap scanning tools?
 

Last edited by ii-Stingray-ii; Jan 30, 2024 at 11:29 AM.
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Old Jan 29, 2024 | 12:12 PM
  #2  
zabond's Avatar
zabond
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Joined: Apr 2022
Posts: 59
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From: Neerim East VIctoria Australia
my first test would be to put a test light on the starter solenoid terminal on the starter motor to see if you are getting voltage to it, you may have a bad starter or solenoid, yes starters don't just die but I have seen a corroded or loose terminal on the solenoid spring up unexpectantly, especially on the small terminal. I don't think a OBD would detect a loose/corroded solenoid feed wire problem
Russ
 
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Old Feb 5, 2024 | 05:45 PM
  #3  
Aspen's Avatar
Aspen
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Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 424
Likes: 26
From: Kanuckistan
Originally Posted by ii-Stingray-ii
Before I begin: I've searched multiple forums trying to see if someone out there has the same problem as me, and it seems the solutions provided are too simple (like check corrosion on your battery, etc.), or the problem never gets solved... even so, I believe my situation is unique, which warrants a post to these forums, and I'm hoping someone besides uncle Joe with his shady-tree mechanic operation can get on and help. P.s., no offense to Uncle Joe, as you've definitely helped me fix the obvious I've looked right past before lol.

TL,DR: Replaced battery, engine started a couple times, but now wont start, even after registering battery and clearing codes.

Situation: 07 R52 (cooper S conv. w/ super) has been struggling maintaining a charge for a couple winters now. It's gotten so bad I finally decided to look at the battery. I've owned the car for about five years, and have never even seen the battery, so I naturally assumed the battery as the likely culprit (especially since the problem is exaggerated when it's cold). The replacement is an AutoZone Gold-something, which I think it has about 50 more CCA than the old battery.

I'll take a moment and note that I think I've replaced a dozen batteries over the years so let's not get into the "gotta take off the negative lead first" stuff lol.

Anyway, got the new battery in and fired her up. Easy peasy. Since I was doing other emissions stuff (repairing vacuum hoses, etc), I decided to take her on a 40-mile drive to see if I couldn't get some codes to clear on their own.

Long story short, the results aren't what I expected them to be, so I returned home. The next morning I went to go somewhere, and the car is flat dead... but wait... I just replaced the battery... it can't be dead. All the lights are working, cabin chime is chirping, everything is working as it should, but I'm not getting any starter engagement at all. All I notice is a faint whine to a motor I've never heard before (which I quickly conclude it must be the fuel pump or the oil cooler fan I've never heard before because it's drowned out by thr noise of the engine running).

After doing some research online, I've determined the cause must be some sort of ECU lockout due to me replacing the battery and not programming the ECU for the new battery. I call the dealership and they give me the typical "bring it in and we'll diagnose it" runaround. So, after more searching, I decide to buy a BMW/Mini-specific OBD-II code reader/programmer and give it a try. After all, people on the University of YouTube are showing how easy it is to tell thr ECU you've got a new battery... it can't be that difficult...

Well... I still can't get the car to engage the starter.

Before we get into "didja pour baking soda on the battery terminals" responses, let me share with y'all what I did do/check/try:
  • Brand-new battery with a slightly higher CCA rating than the previous battery.
  • Voltage at battery is within spec.
  • Checked every fuse (both in the engine bay and the left-side compartment, or driver's side for us North Americans).
  • Unplugged the ignition coupler and ran a continuity test on the ignition switch.
  • Tested the immobilizer by inserting a spare key with the chip removed and confirmed no response from the ECU.
  • Cleared all codes and reset the battery indicator with a purported Mini-specific scanner tool.
  • Disconnected the battery and let it sit for 30 minutes before reconnecting it
Reasons why I don't think this is a common problem:
  1. After initially replacing the battery, I was able to start it a couple times (while checking my repair work), and took it out on the road. It was only after it had driven for sometime and sat overnight that it started having problems.
  2. Starter and/or relay doesn't sound like it's even attempting to engage, so this tells me it's software-related, and not necessarily a mechanical failure.
  3. In my experience, starters don't just instantly die. So there is a high probability it's not the starter. I also can't imagine any possible situation where having an electrical system sit overnight would cause some environment where something would short out and kill the relay.
I apologize if I sound a little arrogant. I really am stumped by this issue and am open to ideas/suggestions. I guess I'm just irritated that these forums often degrade into apparent mental laziness in their posts, and with a degree in Mechanical Engineering and about 20 years of experience wrenching on cars underneath shady trees, I really hope I have made a high-caliber thread that will attract and warrant high-caliber responses. I'm also hoping that someone else out there in the same boat as me will find this post and find it useful, rather than getting lost in all the literary beer cans, if you know what I mean.

This is where I beg for help and say some catch-phrase of how y'all are my only hope, but I'm pretty sure that's already copyrighted . Thanks in advance!

P.S., My only suspicion at this point is what the quality of my OBD-II scanning tool is at, as it's a $70 Amazon Special straight from China. Has any one else suffered at the hands of cheap scanning tools?
You will get more views on the hatch forum since is not really a cabrio issue.
it may well be your starter and it's cables. Try the old whack it with a hammer and make sure the connection to it are clean. starters can fail overnight.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2024 | 06:37 PM
  #4  
deepgrey's Avatar
deepgrey
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I didn’t think any first gens came with IBS. I thought it started with the second gen cars. I know mine doesn’t have it.

I agree with zabond. Verify voltage at the starter.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2024 | 08:24 AM
  #5  
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Check the ground strap on the starter, they tend to rust and fall off.



 
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Old Feb 8, 2024 | 09:15 AM
  #6  
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From: Phoenix
I'd err on the side of caution and replace the starter. If it hasn't died yet, it's old enough that it's on borrowed time. I had a similar issue with my 2005 R50 a couple of years ago and just replaced the starter outright with a Bosch OE unit and haven't had any issues since. Good luck.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2024 | 09:56 AM
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That cooper woven strap in between the starter and solenoid rusts and falls apart, its not coated or anything.

I fixed mine once and then used grease to protect, it then rusted more and broke again. :( I just replaced the starter with new and greased heavy on that wire on the outside. Been good ever since.


 
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Old Feb 8, 2024 | 06:39 PM
  #8  
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From: Panama City Beach Florida
I bet money your key lost sync with your ews. Happens a lot. Get a copy of inpa an a dcan cable. The sync your key to the ews.
 
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