Hi all, as many of you may know I am doing the rmw head build. I have successfully put the gasket in and my car does not overheat thank GOD!!! Also I installed the dominator cam so it is hard to diagnose the car. Anyway, I put everything back in the car and started it, I started it and it idles very very rough. I messaged Adrian and he told me a bunch of connectors that were faulty, removed cleaned and plugged back in and it those connectors worked but theres two codes that come up that do not go away. Adrian did not give me code number but he gave me NAME of the code which is:
1.) Intake Manifold Pressure Too High in push mode
2.) Secondary intake manifold pressure sensor before DK to high in overrun mode.
Initially I got the two hoses that plug into the intake hose to the supercharger. Switched them and no luck. I replaced my intake manifold MAP sensor which Adrian told me to do but that did not fix the issue. I am so sick and tired of this car I have dumped so much money into this car I cannot continue anymore. Any help is needed. I cannot understand what Adrian tells me not in the sense that he is wrong but by the time I text him which for me I get out of school at 3pm, it is 10-11pm for him he is very tired so any help is needed. He says that it could be my ecu thats shot. Removed my ecu and one of the pins was bent. Fixed that bend and it obviously did NOT fix the problem. Idle is very bouncy and rough but when I put gas, it accelerates very rough but 2k> it revs very crisp and loud. Does not pop and whenever I apply gas anywhere above 2k it like chugs for a split second than picks up like crazy. Please help thank you.

 

I am old and you are young. When I was young, I’d fly off the handle when ***** like this happened. But now I’ve learned that ***** happens, and I expect it to happen, so I stay a little cooler. But not all the time.

Here is what you need to do: You’re a student, and you need to deep-dive this and LEARN. Don’t let your tuner just fix it without understanding exactly what’s going on. And the reason is that every gas-powered car you ever own going forward is going to have even more computer control. Electronic diagnosis is the key to being a good mechanic.

So you have two values that are out of range under certain conditions. The supercharger can operate in “boost” mode, which is standard. Or, a wastegate valve opens and bypasses boost. The two sensors, TMAP and MAP, should show a pressure difference when the wastegate is allowing air into the supercharger, and the pressure values should be about the same when the supercharger is bypassed.

First, ask your friend what do these two modes (push and overrun) mean. I would guess that “push” means supercharger active, and “overrun” means supercharger bypassed, but I don’t know. Second, what is the expected range, and what values are you seeing? He should know what values are expected, and you should know what you’re actually getting. I assume you have some kind of code reader or software which displays these values.

Then, logic your way to an answer. Is the MAP sensor giving bad values, or is it giving accurate values? Ask your colleague what range of values is standard for the car, and what range is required by the tune he applied? Especially, what is the acceptable range during idle? And, it’s a lower pressure range than expected at 2,000 RPM and above.

You want to logic your way through this so that you can fix every future car you’re ever going to own.

What value are you looking at? Air pressure at the manifold. That’s post-supercharger air pressure (or supercharger-bypassed pressure). But during idle, the supercharger should be bypassed.
Maybe it’s a bad sensor.
Could be a bad wire.
Or the tune is looking for the wrong range of values. Thats a definite possibility.
Or you’re always in boost mode
Or there’s a vacuum leak

You should be able to find two pressure values: The MAP and the TMAP sensor readouts. At idle, they should be nearly identical, and at higher RPMs, the supercharger should engage, which will make MAP pressure higher than TMAP pressure (I think). Or, at least pressure will be higher. AND, the pressure should change. If it never changes, sounds like a bad sensor. If it does change, find out how far out of range it is. It is possible that your tuner made a mistake.

When the air pressure is either out of range or measured wrong, it is difficult to impossible to get the amount of fuel to match the amount of air, so you run rich or lean. Although there are many possible causes, you are best off if you trace through the possibilities and diagnose the actual cause, instead of guessing and trying things. It will make you a way better mechanic.

 

Based on previous posts going back to the rmw install you need to stop. Go over everything again. Verify cables and tubes. You have had issues after issue and lots of it is likely user error but thats ok. Just go back over everything. Even if that means unplug everything make a list and mark off whe you plug or service that item. Also make sure for whatever reason your TB harness is still plugged in. Slow down relax and go over everything again. These engines are a dead simple setup with minimal electrics.

The Dom cam itself wont casue any idle issue at all so rule that out. Hopefully you got the timing chain installed right and in phase with the cam. Check your plug wires too. They going to the correct cylinder?

 

All wires are going to the correct cylinder. I diagnosed it and my intercooler boots were ripped and creating a boost leak. Fixed the boots, and let the car idle which it did perfectly. I manually cleared my check engine light and it hasnt come back but it started to overheat slowly. I did lose some coolant in the process of diagnosing the car so I believe that was the issue. I topped it off with coolant and nothing happened. I believe I need to bleed the coolant system which I will follow the procedure online to bleed correctly.

 

Excellent congrats. They can be a pia to bleed for sure. Follow the procedure and even open the valve when its heated up with engine off. meaning follow manual but also when you first shut it down after that crack the valves too. I have massive air pockets every time I drain or service the coolant system. I have a electric water pump so I have additional issues with that at time too. Plus side of that is I can heat car up and run pump with engine off. Long story short bleeding a pia. It could take a few cycles to get it all. Also open valve with the overflow cap on.