So long story short I had valet park and attempt to bring me my car back about 2hr later, believe it or not my 1st and last time in my life allowing that but it was an emergency and I had to get in asap. Anyways when he went to bring me my car back he came back looking dumbfounded and said my car wouldn't start.. " o fricken great , its 2am , 30min from home and at a hospital in the parking structure in the valet section ".. so I went out to my car to check it out and I had a p1689 and as soon as it would start it would die and not hold throttle or accept any throttle input. I went n then adked the guy to explain best he could what happened and he said it seemed to take too long to start so he gave it some gas and as soon as he did he said it died and then wouldnt restart. I asked and was given permission to work on the car where ut was at so I ran home and grabbed my laptop and all my spare parts I had left and headed back..
1st I reset everything and adoptions with inpa which cleared the code but still had the issue upon restart.. so then I changed the throttlebody thinking maybe that went bad and it ran perfect , i let it idle for 10min and gave it throttle input a few times and it all seemed well. So i parked my wifes car , ran back in the keys and went to finally go home at like 4am and lol the car WOULDNT START as soon as I got back and it had the same EXACT symptoms as befor.. so I reset it all again , started it and it was still doing it so I revved it and held the pedal down full in an attempt to not let it sputter out and it revved very slowly until 4k rpm then as soon as it went past 4k rpm it began to rev up normal speed to red line so i bounced it off the rev limiter a few times and let it idle back down and let it idle for 5min and it idled perfect. Then i gave it a few throttle blips and it seemed fine..so I drove it 30min home problem free and once again running like a MONSTER!
So I go restart it this morning and absolutely no issue what so ever , fired rite up exactly as it always has. Then I restarted it and went for a drive a few hours later and again , 0 issues what so ever...wtf ????
so after a bunch of digging I found absolutely NO useful info on this code or problem that arose BUUUUUUT I belive it was caused by that guy giving it throttle input while cranking it. My car ALWAYS since all its mods takes a few extra cranks and always gives off a kinda popnoise when its starting . Always has and always started 0 issues and I NEVER had to give it ANY throttle input while starting the car EVER.
I believe that the throttle input plus cranking at the same time or simultaneously made the ecu have NO CLUE what to do as far as fueling and throttle input.. I did see while cranking when it wouldn't hold idle my afr was pegging rich then lean and alternating back n forth...
thxfully its fine now but i wanna make sure something else isnt going on i need to address and am just hoping it was one of those multitude of dumb things that caused the car to not know how to respond..
has anybody ever had this type of issue or this code come up ? What turned out to be your issue and fix ???

 

The only time I've had this code was after my rebuild and it simply was an error with the throttle body. Car sat apart for a for a long while.
All it took was a simple unplug - wait a few sec - replug of the throttle body electrical connector.
Never happened again.

 

did your car also not hold idle or not respond to input too at the same time ???? Im HALF tempted to go out later today and attempt to replicate the problem by tapping my gas while cranking but I'm scared I'd mess something up permanently but it would be nice to know exactly what caused this.. my car has NEVER left me stranded and the one time it did was during an emergency and that can't happen.

 

The problem came back today again.. I tried swapping coilpacks now and cleaning tmap , map , cam sensor and the connections and NO luck.. I feel like this is only happening when my cars warmed up.. ille retry restarting it once I get back home and it's fully cooled down..
I even cleaned the ecu contacts and connectors...
I think I might try throwing a crank sensor sensor then cam sensor hoping it's one if those that is going bad. While I change them it will give me a chance to inspect the wiring and other stuff I can get access to..
any tips ???

 

Sooo I think I'm rite as the problem only happens once the car warms up.. why though ??? Still no codes..
I went and started it after it fully cooled down and started n revved perfect , i even restarted it like 5x times until i started recording to show you guys the issue and my theory.
then while it was warming up and I was in-between shots it ACTUALLY DIED ,, MY CAR HAS NEVER STALLED OUT EVER !!!!!
could this be a fuel pump going out????? Everytime I ever seen these symptoms thats what it was but a few times it was a crabk position sensor but usually thatll throw a code. I'm not going to throw too many rocks in the dark , only cheap easy fix I will..
anyways heres a video showing exactly whats happening..

 

Link g4. I honestly had your issue when the dme was dying. Don’t reset adaptations and report back what your idle fuel trims are when you do get it running. Curious if they are pegged fuel add or full regard short term or long term fuel trims let us know what they are.

 

Please Delete or Ban my account. Its clear people cant handle Asperger's or direct and accurate information.

 

I ran inpa while the car was running and EVERYTHING was normal I actually did check the fuel trims , idle speed and input ect ect ect , all was good..
leads me to believe the ebay crank sensor i put in when i did my Sprintex install is failing already.. i cracked the old one during install and threw in an ebay one as money was tight.
soooooo. I ordered a new crank sensor , cam sensor , 2x 02 sensors and knock sensor..
I will start with the crank sensor and move on to the next in line in hopes it's that crank sensor.. I'm willing to bet it is though.
and Devil , I don't take offense man , sorry they deleted ur response. Everybody has a different way of trying to get their point across and your bluntness shouldn't be taken as offensive...it's all good man
I'd live to get a link ecu but I don't have 1000$ on hand to do so.. buying 150$ worth of sensors and ability to return one's i won't need is more cost efficient..
buuuuuut you might be correct in the ecu could be failing..my issues do mimick an ecu with a bad resistor or what ever as it heats up,expands and breaks connection. Just praying it's the crank sensor though....

 

GOD I hope this is the cause of my issue..I will order a new harness now too and replace this also....
sure would be nice to not have to use ANY of the new sensors I'd ordered though I might as well just keep them and have them as spares. I cheaped out buying the sensors because I needed so many and they were all shots in the dark OR I would have gone oem.. atleast what sensors I have in now , if still good ARE oem so if I don't have to replace them I'm not going to.
but I think I'm going to start with replacing the harness , then the sensor and move my way on up the engine then...

 

I have a spare r50 harness you can have if its the same and I think it mostly is. Its from a 08 sidewalk

 

Id already ordered the harness with sensor which shoooooould be coming tomorrow. I appreciate the offer though..
I put liquid electrical tape over the exposed wires but no change..
I also put in the new cam sensor, no change...
I also put on my torque app and Bluetooth dongle and watched almost every parameter my ecu can display and EVERYTHING runs within spec ,until it reaches a certain temp and BAM , it stalls..
is the cranksensor fix tomorrow doesnt fix it , im gonna be at a loss where to look next.. maybe ille hook up a fuel pressure gauge on the shrader vslve in the end of the rail and monitor that.. idk it could be the cps , fuelpump ir my friggen ecu..

 

How about fuel pressure regulator. Sits right under the IC, so only place hotter under the hood would be nearer to the exhaust. Could pull the IC, hook up a FP gauge to the end of the rail (Schrader valve), reinstall the IC and see how it acts when the car fully warms up.

 

I will try that next.. I installed a new harness with no change and I tried the new sensor and of course Amazon's best the pos is bad out of the box so put the old one back in with new wiring and atleast it would do as it did.
at 3:20 into the video i could see my afr start to go leaner and leaner the warmer the car got until POW , it just stalls and then won't start again.. here's a clip , in inpa I seen my 2nd tps value was high , that mean anything ?

 

And inpa showing fuel trims and stuff ,again after full cool down and restart.. again car stalls near end of clip

https://youtu.be/9RGiILovQlI

 

Sounds like a FET collapsing when it gets warm in the ecu. I have a Simmens here that fried too after a bunch of bytetronik tunes. It would when warm go pig rich and try to pull -30 stft and ltft. Switched to VDO issue gone. No idea what happened as I never cared. But I have the bad ecu here if Adrian wants to poke around inside. Got rid of the vdo with key and all that jaz byetronik etc after I went link

 

While I'm waiting for parts to arrive.... I think I'm gonna pull out my ecu and see if there any obvious leaking diodes or pots or something I can spot...

 

Caps would leak. Just smell around. Once you smell burnt electronics you never forget that smell its like burning clutch or trans you never forget. Be careful as the board is a two piece with a ribbon between them. Dont **** with it though man you stand more of a chance to brick it then anything else. I dont know if Adrian can marry "Keys" meaning new ecu to current imbolizer etc. Keys is not like actual keys but like a handshake. The items need to be married. So worse case you get him to marry you a VDO or go link. Unless he has them cheaper then other sources I think they are around 3-500 bucks.

I do know for a fact that Flashing roms either SS or Eprom with a crystal and uv window go kaput after X amount of flashes. How many that is who knows. But there is a service life to NVRAM and Eproms. I must have flashed mine over 60 times when I was doing bytetronik stuff and one day immediately after a flash I had the issue I mentioned above. Not saying yours is even broke or what caused it as Unless I have the pcb trac and component layout and break out my oscilloscope testing logic circuits we will never know.

I was and still am a Pinball/Arcade/CRT repair tech and have been doing this type of stuff since I was 12 when I rebuilt my first drive board in a Xenon pinball machine. So pics below are my side hustle and has been since I was 12.

 

Inspected the ecu and it looked perfect inside. definitely NO smell anywhere of any burned wires or electronics.
I'm sapose to get a handful of sensors to try tomorrow and ones another crank sensor. But I found that there's 2x different part #s for crank sensors for the r53 , usually one has a black o ring and ones blue. I had the blue one NOT work on my car so hopefully the one coming tomorrow is different but I already ordered the exact sensor in my car now just encase..
I knowticed while the car was running I was watching my timing and it would usually sit at like 4-7 degrees advanced but periodically I'd see it spike to like 16' for a quick second or two and it did that a few times , pegged lean on my afr gauge then died...
Geez , it GOTTA be either the crabk sensor or my fuelpump..
I better 2x check the filter as I changed that like 4montgs ago or so , maybe sonetbing is loose in it , idk ? Byt might as well check while i wait for new parts to arrive..

 

So I stumbled across this upgraded pump that DIRT cheap..
BUT I can't find any writeups or info on how to replace the pump inside the sending unit.. any links encase i need to ho this route ?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/29409494343...mis&media=COPY

 

Pump is on drivers fpr and filter in passenger senders on both baskets

 

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...eplacement.htm

Some YooBoob vids out there too.

 

Well it's gotten worse. I can't even get it started now...
I'm gonna have to rent a fuel pressure tester and might as well grab a compression tester too to be safe.
I popped off my valvecover to inspect timing chain and guides as well as my rockers and camlobes and everything looked fine. No excessive wear or anything...
I'm stumped.............

 

Check for fuel at rail. Check for spark and or voltage at connector. Check fuses and the fuses under the fuses in main engine box. Yup more fuses underneath the ones you see if you didn't know. Guessing Pump is dead. Pop filter and see if its nasty even if you did it recently check it again. Pump prime? Can you hear it? Take cover off tank and expose pump can you hear it? Pop line off is it flowing when cycled? Is the venturi pumping fuel back over to the pump side when cycled? These cars are pretty basic. They don't need anything really to run even with faulty ****. Check Cam sensor voltage. Crank sensor voltage. Because I think Cam and Spark are on same fuse maybe F04 I cant remember but think its a under/bottom fuse. Check ground. Use inpa or Ista D to toggle pump to run. Don't have ista d get it install it suffer through the install lol. ista d is the best dealer level software better than inpa by light years just watch a video of ista d in action.

Sounds like a fuel issue. Stop running it lean revving it up forcing it to run etc. Find the issue. Again simple car. Mouse in the house over winter? Again pop seat check wiring Could be in a limp mode loop too. Disconnect battery leave unhooked for hour


You had a rad fan piece thingy issue didnt you? MAke sure wires didnt get chewed for like knock or crank

Could also be the LDP rear passenger wheel arch. These can do all sorts of bull ****. See what Inpa says about LDP GET ISTA D Unhook all the vapor bull **** under the hood. When it starts to run lean open gas gap loud woosh? Could be vaper lock fuel boiling in rail from idling I could go on..... First basic step though is fuel pump diagnosis

 

soooo it looks like one of my timing guides are broke . Dies it look like that to you also ??
soooooo , still wanna do the trade for your short block ? What's the condition of the shortblock ? I think I'm in for a rebuild..

 

Lol my valvecover was cracked underneath under the coilpack so I put on my carbonfiber dipped one finally. That Crack would explain my little oil leak on the rear of my head I'd seen that I assumed was the gasket. Also half the bolt grommets were bad ..
I'm so frustrated i actually shed a few tears after i put on this valvecover because it looks sooooo nice and my car was finally figured out ect..this is just so disheartening.
when it rains , it POURS !... UGH......