I cant see much in pic but what's your logic to why the suspected chain guide is causing you to run lean? Car would still run albeit chain would be slapping all over. Is their still tension on tensioner side?

Its easy for the coil pack bolts to be over torqued causing excess stress and cracks over time especially if the grommets where shot. Also need to b careful when torquing down the coil relocation plate. I think I torqued mine to 8 ftlbs

A bunch of replies back I had suggested making a little list of all the little micro issues as a way to give the entire under the hood a good once over. You didn't have a favorable response to taht and seemed to take it in a negative way when it was meant as a way for you to slow down and triple check everything. Especially how much you fiddle about in there the odds are at some point something will get forgot or overlooked so its just good practice.

ITs hard to say whats going on or what to do going forward as I give legit mechanical flow charts for diagnosis and suggestions and you seem to never take them as that or find reason why not to. I did this for Jim Carter/Eau Claire Ford for 20 years. The one thing I learned is process of elimination and isolating systems to track down stuff. As a end user on the net on a forum reply to people its very hard to keep offering the horse water if the horse wont drink. Take everything you know about your current situation and start from scratch. Do I have fuel pressure why or why not etc. I can repair one of these cars on the side of the road practicaly with the factory Mini tool kit in the boot and common sense.


The story with the block is It was a running block that was removed. Before its removal I had another block that was at machine shop doing what I wanted done with my custom crank as well. So the block I have was runnnig at the time had like 120k give or take and didnt burn oil at the time. That being said I fogged the block with heavy oil and its been sitting in my garage for almost 2 years in a bag.

Me being me I wouldn't just go throwing it in the way it is but others would and do. ME being me again its out its easy to work on better off to tear it down for inspection and at least verify stuff and re assemble or refresh it or do complete rebuild.


I have autism as you know. I get frustrated easily. Even more so when people don't continually take my advice. I am not some rando shade tree guy. I have extensive experience with the platform as you can tell by my car. Brands and parts aside it was a proper build with over 20 pages of notes taken during the build.

At this point I do not know what else to do as when I offer professional level help on what to do its just glossed over.

 

Well I got it started again atleast WITH the new crank sensor..I think it wasn't starting because of a massive vacuum leak that my rigged smoke detector could push through.i also cleaned my sparkplugs just because.
So.
i had it idling and i knowticed my afr go lean AGAIN once it reached operating temp. Then it stumbled a little but leveled out after a few seconds but gauge still read FULL lean. So I shut it down as I have to run some errands and will come back to it in a few hours and see if itle start..

 

I edited my post above best to re read it. Do you finally have a wideband or still the rich lean narrow band and nothing in between other than estimation based on 0-1v window. Just need to know what I am working with. Again on the wideband you at least at some point resented getting it as inpa was enough on the narrow band setup. Blunt honesty its not good for anything other than a little light show as the range it works in is to narrow hence narrow. Dont take it personal just educating you. Maybe you got one I dunno. On that subject all it takes is a simple google search on the theory of operation and usefulness.

 

But step one is to simply verify if you hear the pump prime? (is it still the stocker from the factory?) We can go further after you check that. If you cannot hear well pop seat up. If you do do that also check for mouse turds.

 

Also fwiw its been proven that ground strapped wires like you hav actually induce noise and loose HP. Bunch of vids on real dyno results with the spoon ones. Just something else to get in teh way and be a potential problem

 

Fuelpumps out..was easy enough and ones en route , what do I got to loose ?? Also I'm sure it's the stock pump to my cars body so it's from 04' with 220k miles on it.
Might as well order timing guides too just encase as that one TO ME looks bogus..
thxfully i didnt need to suck out any gas other than out the pump housing AND i hAve dangnear a full tank of gas too.
looking inside its clean as can be , so my cleaning has held up abd looks like i did good job.
God I gotta get this figured out !

 

If I was there in person I would start verifying assemblies fuel spark etc Why didnt you see if it primed or did you? If it didnt did you check the fuse before yeanking it or check for voltage at pump? Mouse turds back there?

I am not here to preach but the DW65 is the way to go.


And also the post above is what I mean. No acknowledging you saw what I said and or right to yanking it which is why i cant really help because you go off and do your own thing and shotgun stuff vs diagnosing and probelm solving. Your never going to grow skill wise by shotgunning **** and then moving on casue the issue is seemingly fixed.

 

I already verified I had spark through out , ne er looses it. Even tried swapping coilpacks..
YES I do have a wideband sensor installed, , that's how I know what my afr's are doing..I 2x checked and no exhaust leaks as I smoke tested my exhaust too when I did my intake.
and no I'm not jumping from one thing to another ever on my car.... ive never had an isdue up until the other month and I was experiencing boost loss that I found was both from the intercooler and bad fpr line.. I had it running perfect , full boost again and power and wasn't beating on the car or anything the night the no start issue happened. I let a gutly park my car and it F'd up and has had the issue starting once warm since..
I hadn't touched anything on the car in 2x weeks before this happened.
and since this has happened the ONLY time the cel came on was the night the guy tried restarting My car and I've been trying to figure out the cause since...
figured it was my crank sensor so ordered one that came and was junk z found exposed wires on the electrical lines so i bought a new harness and cut the lines back until they were good and correctly wired it in..
then I got another new cranksensor and it works just as my other one did but instead of the car dying , it chuggs when warm but will hold idle and I caaaaaan get it started if I give it gas n fuss the throttle while cranking but even then IF I get it started my afr gauge reads full lean..
I know you think I've rigged this car while building it but it's been the exact opposite. I don't reuse junk or old parts , I 2x check my work and I NEVER do more than one thing at a time on the car just encase of something like what's happening now..
atleast I know my timing guide isn't junk because i pulled up a pic of it and it looks exactly like the pic..im just getting paranoid. And my timing chain has no slack or anything..
How i get my data is via inpa , my afr gauge , boost gauge , x60 multigauge and torque app..I use THEM ALL !
I even learned what all the insthese are of the ecu and 2x checked what controls the injection and 02s and I didn't see any damage though I'm going to inspect again with a magnifying glass ..
I also depressed the Schrader valve on my fuelrail after it sat over night and usually it would spray all way onto my wheel liner and today is squirted but it was FAR from the spray it usually was so thats a big reason I removed the pump. Exp Since I'd already ordered a pump so might as well change out my 200k+mile 20+year old pump just to be safe an eliminate it as a cause..

 

Serusoily dude that’s the reply I get everytime I try to help. I answer the call for professional level help and I have no idea why I do. Again take er easy dude. If you go back and look at the history of your posts since you joined there are lots of crys for help.


my point about the pump is this. All the time effort and money into your car and you are willing to use a 50 dollar no name pump and out it all on the line with that part. Do I think your cad is rigged no. Do i think you make poor choices yes. We all do. I do. Until you can admit someone knows more than you it will be a struggle. I know this first hand as I used to be the same way until I accepted someone would always known more
and be better at something then me. That was the day I got smart and open the doors to learning and always willing to learn and listen to others. So all I am going to say is I have more experience then you I am better with these cars than you and I’m trying to help you with your car and help you learn but that’s only insulting you I think so like I said I can’t help you and nobody really can unless they agree with you or you let them help you. Best of luck dude. I fully admit someone on this board likely knows more about these cars than me and I can accept that and learn from that. Can you?

 

it actually isn't a 50$...thats my point..too many assumptions befor questions and always looking for a chance to critique me, just leave opinions out of it plz because i ordered the 196$ vdo pump as I seen was recommended for our cars by numerous people. Trust me. If I had the $ to buy all oem stuff I would but having the problem I am , that isn't doable 1st off as I couldn't afford that so I put the money where it was most important and what was most likely the issue. I still have a fallback then if it's the ecu too.. then if it is , it's no money wasted imo if it now has a new fuel pump. Just one of the last few things still old og to the car that needed replacing eventually anyways.
main thing leads me to believe it was the pump too was because cold it requires I belive I read like 30-40psi and warm and during slight revs it's needs 60psi... so if that was correct , that'd TOTALLY explain my issue I was having.
both autozones I stopped at , neither had a fp tester i coulda rented and in all honesty once it ran again fine cold , I wanted to leave it as Is with as little change to anything as possible so I can isolate the issue...
I'd said I cheaped out buying "sensors" NOT a fuelpump..
and I did that because I wasn't sure what if any were bad as I was leaning towards my fuelpump once the new crank sensor made no difference as well as cam sensor..
what advice have you given on this issue to help that I haven't taken or tried ? Lol Devil just chill...

 

did you ever by chance open up that ecu to see if there was any visable signs of an issue or anything ? Im curious....
I found this bit of useful info on the ecu..
also , do you know the oem factory fuelpump brand and part number ? I wanna see if forsure this is my cars og pump.

 

I'm almost positive this is an ebay noname pump that was in my car.. if I'm correct , the stock one doesn't have the line coming off it where I attack the fuel line onto , I belive the stock one the fuel line attaches onto the top of the pump housing bot into the hose ..
Is there a way to use a multi meter while the pump is out to verify if it's good or bad ? Though I suspect it will read fine because it only faults out when warm but why not try ? If so could someone plz tell me how , I SUCK when it comes to electrical stuff.
i should note too i checked fuses and relays...I did see some bigger black chunks too in the bottom of the pump housing and it had a almost burnt out electronics smell but hard to tell with it living in gas. But I'm almost positive that wasn't the stock pump and atleast of its not the issues ille have a better brand name pump in..
o yea , I also changed the filter about 3x months ago and cleaned the inside of my gastank then too.

 

Regarding the fuel pump, why didn’t you just stick a fuel pressure gage on the fuel rail? They aren’t expensive and the end of the fuel rail has a Schroeder valve that is easy to attach to. If the fuel pressure is where it should be, then the pump, fuel lines, and fuel pressure regulator should be fine.

FWIW, I suspected injectors and when I pulled the fuel rail, I found a torn O-ring on the fuel pressure regulator. I sent my injectors off to InjectorRx.com to get cleaned and they found one unserviceable, (plugged I guess).

Good luck,
Peter

 

because the 2x autozones by me didn't have one to rent unfortunately...
replacing the fuelpump DID fix my problem...
but yes your 100% rite , had i had a fuel pressure tester it sure would have made things easier... I think I need to buy one just to have now.
buuut I kinda leaned away from my pump at 1st because it sounded like it was priming strong ( though new pumps 2x as loud so it wasn't) and if it sat ,even multiple days and I compressed the Schrader valve , it always had pressure BUT it wasn't enough pressure.. now if I press the valve it would spray across my fender out the rail. Befor it squirted but didnt spray out..
I think that that code came up when a valet was hutting my throttle while cranking because of my failing fuelpump.
come to think about it now it.... I did occasionally get a lean condition code that would very rarely pop up and it was very random.

 

Wait? What? It was the fuel pump? That solved your problem?

Great! We don't always hear of solutions. This is wonderful. The typical response is a bunch of problems and guesses and then when a solution is found, we stop caring and the rest of us never hear of the solution.

Good job.
Peter

 

yes , fuelpump solved my issue...