Hi all

I'm new here, from Auckland NZ. I recently had replaced my oil cooler and filter housing gaskets at a local workshop. They came back to me and advised the drain back valve is broken, they cannot reseat it and i may have some oil pressure issues.

To my absolute horror, i found that not only do Mini and BMW NZ not stock the part, no one on the planet does either. Nice one BMW. They wanted me to buy a new filter housing $NZ700+gst. I wasnt keen, naturally.

After much research, i found a Dorman item that was said to fit. But frankly, it doesnt. Just because something goes into a hole, doesnt mean it fits. I tried to modify the part to replicate my broken one but got nowhere and to top it off, lost the top of it down a hole (somewhat concerned, but it is plastic so praying it will get crushed).

Fast forward to today. I took out the Filter housing to work out the purpose of this PIA part. What i found is this:

It's sole purpose is the drain the oil out of the filter housing as you unscrew the filter cap. Otherwise, its stays shut and the oil stays. But if it doesnt work, your oil light comes on. Further, many will say as long as you have oil in the motor, its fine. No its not. The natural flow of oil is interrupted as there is now another outlet for oil to go out of, so yes, there is definite starvation and your motor will rattle (even though your may not hear it as obvious). The valve is actually overkill and is not needed. Gravity will also do the same thing if you take off the oil filler cap and the drain plug.

I spent almost $NZ250 trying to working this thing out. I'm not impressed! I even ordered the 3D printed item from Out Motoring, which hasnt arrived yet $NZ95

So, the fix:

I took out the larger spring and seated the valve in place, then seated the filter on it so it doesnt move (it wont anyway because no spring). I then screwed on the filter cap. Problem solved. Next oil change, i just need to reseat the valve and load the cartridge first.

Cost? F All.

No rattles, no lights. Happy days.

Cheers

Bush Mechanic.

 

Interesting timing, and interesting input!

I changed my oil Saturday and couldn't get my filter to canister, to, thread. Damned valve as broken. Paid 2nd day air to get TWO valves here by tomorrow so I can get back on the road and have a spare on the shelf in case it happens again.

Really liking the theory that it's unnecessary.

I'm planning to poke around this weekend on my spare block to figure out what it would take to make a block off plate and plumb in a remote cooler and filter so I don't have, to deal with that ridiculous design any more.

 

Hi mate

No need for a block off plate. As long as just the stalks are broken and the rest of the valve is intact, you can still use it and it will function fine. Just take off the larger spring and seat the valve back. Good to go.

The valve is one way and the larger spring is misleading as to the entire units function. Oil drains out via the valve, it does not come back through it. The spring is there to compensate for the differences in filters as not all are the same. The button part of the valve is most important. As long as thats ok, you're sweet as.

Cheers

 

This might give you an idea (page 3).

edit: nevermind. That part just replaces the cooler.

 

I've been talking to them to see if they made, or would be willing to to make a block off plate.

So far no interest.

I really want to come up with a better solution that makes the filter more accessible along with providing better oil cooling. Eliminating a bunch of excess coolant piping to boot would be an added benefit.

The whole system seems like an exercise in over-engineering.

 

It seems odd that no one makes a plate.

 

I suspect there was little interest in the early years, as most people didn't DIY their oil changes, so the schmuck at Jiffy Lube or the dealership had to wrestle with it.

The enthusiast group is small enough that I am guessing there's never been enough apparent demand to get a company to do the development.

 

I suppose you’re right. In my head, the mini community is pretty big, and it is in comparison to the number of people with old Audis or second gen Chevy vans. But it doesn’t really compare to cars like Miatas and BMWs.

To be honest, I don’t have major gripes about changing the filter, but the drain back valve issue is always in the back of my mind. Of course, I don’t have a bunch of coolant lines running around back there like y’all do.

 

I believe that OutMotoring makes a 3D printed valve which will work. Is this the part you need?

https://www.outmotoring.com/MINI-Coo...rep_12345.html