R60/R61 Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for R60 AND R61 MINI Cooper and Cooper S MINIs.

Red oil light on and Amber Check engine after oil change

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Old Dec 8, 2020 | 11:15 AM
  #1  
patrson's Avatar
patrson
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From: Southern California
Red oil light on and Amber Check engine after oil change

2011 Countryman S
78761 Mi
Did an oil change using Castrol Full Synthetic Euro 5w-40 after startup engine went into reduced power mode, red oil light on and codes for low oil pressure, camshaft lockup and cam timing error. 1st thing was to pull oil filter and check oil bypass valve intact (no issue) reinstalled a different bosch filter and still the same issue. After trying numerous things, oil pressure switch, new oil again, and 47 other things people posted nothing worked. I had to do research on each of these mini engines to come up with and find answers and final fix.
. So for those of you beating your head against the wall:
Earlier model minis have two valves in their oil filter housing. One is a oil drain back valve that opens when you remove the filter. This allows oil to drain back so you dont make a mess. When this breaks you consantly dump oil back into the pan reducing oil pressure which in turn does not allow the VVT cam gears to operate etc. The second valve is an oil filter bypass valve that lets oil bypass the filter in the event of a clogged filter, which may decrease oil flow, and keep oil flowing to critical engine parts. A lot of posts talk about oil pressure issues after an oil change due to broken valve in oil filter housing. Understand that the drain back valve is what causes this problem in EARLIER motors.
Later model turbo engines do not have the drain back valve. They only have a filter bypass valve that remains open once you put the oil filter in and screw the cap down. The filter presses on the valve. If the bypass valve disappears/disintegrates you only lose a very small amout of oil pressure this is the major difference between a broken drain back valve on early models and later models with a bypass.
. So now that we got that said. I was able put my resources into another area and discovered that a variable valve timing oil control valve was stuck and dumping oil pressure while locking the cam gear into one spot. I removed both solenoids, washed them in parts solvent, sprayed them internally with PB Blaster lubricant and reinstalled. Due to neglect (mini oil change interval set at 11000mi in computer) customer would ignore oil service due like everyone does for another 5000 miles, these valves got sticky. No reason or rhyme why a new oil change would cause this issue.
Ordered 2 new VVT control solenoids as I knew my fix was temporary at best and car is fixed.
Understand that the VVT solenoids can dump excess oil pressure when stuck open. It took me 20 minutes to remove both and reinstall just dont drop the 6mm torx screw while removing, it will disappear into the abyss.
. Hope this helps someone
 
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Old Dec 8, 2020 | 12:25 PM
  #2  
troyegly's Avatar
troyegly
4th Gear
Joined: Sep 2014
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Wowsers! thanks for the detailed information, very informative.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2020 | 09:49 PM
  #3  
bmwr606's Avatar
bmwr606
6th Gear
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 2,264
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From: wisconsin, usa
My march of 2012 build R60S All4 has both the drain back and bypass valves.
 
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