Life is too short to not laugh at yourself...

How NOT to change oil:

Step 1: Watch a few youtube videos and the like to find out what you're doing
Step 2: Let a few weeks go past.
Step 3: Prepare your tools and you definitely don't need to go back and review the instructional material, despite a few weeks and never working on a transverse engine before.
Step 4: Ignore the fact that the bolt you're removing is Torx instead of an Allen, all the instructions said 8mm Allen.
Step 5: Realize you just removed the TRANSMISSION DRAIN PLUG.
Step 6: Commence cursing.

Did get the oil successfully changed. Sort of glad I accidentally pulled the Transmission plug, that fluid is brown/black and smells burnt as heck. Now on to figuring out how to get fresh fluid in the (automatic) transmission, if anyone wants to throw good ideas at me?

Thanks for listening.......

 

Oh forgive me poor car.....

I don't know which way the letters on the oil filter were facing when I snapped it in.......looked symmetrical to me......

Gah! I'm not an engineer, definitely not an engineer....

Glad I have my access to my wife's vehicle during this pandemic shutdown.

 

You'll need a pump to remove the trans oil. They're cheap at Harbor Freight. Then replenish it until it starts flowing out of the fill hole - done.

 

Not that simple on the auto's, but here are the links I've collected on it, as I was going to do this myself until I felt a new clunk in the suspension front end (swaybar bushings up front require dropping the subframe.. which so doesn't the transmission pan removal.. I don't have the tools for that.. so bringing it to my local shop to have them do all this next week)
Get the Toyota T-IV fluid, .

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...e-flushed.html
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...-transmission/
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...n-fluid-431254
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post3502021
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...in-fill-5.html

 

I accessed a plug on top of the trans....it was a royal PITA. I would just get the fill adapter tool and do it from below.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...fill-done.html

 

Thanks for your replies folks.

Geekd4d, I read through all of those links, I appreciate you compiling and sending. Most of those included mention of the 5mm allen key for the drain plug and the stand pipe, but don't mention the Torx drain plug on the pan? I believe there are two drain plug points, I know of seen a picture of such. The torx on the pan is the one I erroneously removed.

I've read it mentioned that the trans filter isn't really a filter, it's a strainer. Do we recommend changing the strainer periodically? If I have to order that part and a pan gasket, I would probably invest in the tools to make it easier. If I can just drain the fluid and replace with stuff I can get locally (probably Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF or Royal Purple) I wouldn't invest in the tools and would just replace the fluid and hope she's happy.

-Justin

 

The filter should be replaced every 100k I believe.
ECS has a whole kit with everything you'd need. Here ya go.
I was just compiling info to see how I was going to get it all done myself as I just hit 100k, then I read about dropping the subframe to get that filter/strainer and I said NOPE. I only have jacks and quite frankly this car has pissed me off lately.
I haven't gotten under there to look at the two spots, but I do know that there are 2.. and when changing the fluid, you're going to undo both of them at some point.
If you get it done... take pics! You might just convince me to do it myself this week if its not bad

 

I'm at 87k, and I don't think the fluid or filter have been changed by previous owner. The oil sump removal and strainer replacement instruction on newTIS.info don't mention dropping the subframe. If I have to do that, it's a no go for me. Same as you, all I have are jack stands, and a gravel driveway. :(

 

What are your thoughts on Oil Filter replacement? Do the letters on the filter NEED to point out at you when snapped into the filter housing before screwed into the motor? Can I pull it back out and check it/flip it without draining the fresh oil?

 

I don't remember where I read you had to drop the subframe a bit to get at some of the bolts around the pan.. I could be completely wrong! (not the first time)
If you've got it on jack stands, see if you can identify all of those bolts

EDIT:

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...ssion/EYR8LXIF
Raise the Engine and Transmission......

 

I'll let someone else answer that: I've yet to do my own filter change, shop I bought it from included a few free oil changes for me as I've had nothing but issues with this one since I bought it 10k ago..
Next oil change is on me though I might be in the same boat as you!

 

The engine oil filter can snap into the cap in either direction, it is not directional.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...lines/DbpDTKb7

 

x2 Your oil filter is fine either direction.

 

As there are 2 transmission drain plugs, can anyone confirm which is the one with the stand pipe right on top of it? The drain plug I removed from the trans pan was definitely a Torx head, not 5mm Allen (internal hex). I don't remember exactly, but it was somewhere between T20 and T30. Would the standpipe be above that plug, or one further back along the car?

I'm probably going to have to try and fill through the top fill hole, I don't have time to wait for any fancy tools to get here.

EDIT:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...n-fluid-431254
In the above link, the drain hole with stand pipe appears to be a plug screwed right into the casting, NOT the one in the pan I removed. So all of the refill procedures that deal with warming the fluid up to weep out of the stand pipe have to do with the plug that is in the casting, yes? Why are there 2, only one has the stand pipe?

All this European engineering makes me miss my Jeep.....

 

That tutorial says to "check the dipstick"?

 

On a Camry I had, the Pan had its drain plug and the other (casting) was the differential. Perhaps this is the same here...

 

Oh a wise guy, eh?

 

Well having a hard time uploading pictures. There is one drain plug for the transmission, it's on the pan. Mine is a T30 (torx), the stand pipe is under this bolt in the pan, and also a T30 torx. Not a 5 mm.

Behind the pan, there is a drain plug in an aluminum casting, this is the differential, not the transmission. Which coincides with what 2014MC said.

I've removed a few bits and bobs from the top of the engine to find that fill plug, I still don't even know where it's at, and I'm not trusting pictures in other threads anymore because they don't match my car. I know how much fluid I got out tonight, but still have no idea how much fluid I lost when I pulled just the plug on accident. I know there was an "easy" way with a plug that isn't on top of the engine, but again, is that even on my car and in the same spot?

What a headache. About to rain so I guess that's it for tonight.

 

I think perhaps the 5mm fits into a T30 and perhaps why so many strip the heads out? What fluid are you planning to put back? Sounds like you should probably do the procedure and get the temps up to range and put in extra fluid (pre heated) and let out the extra from the stand pipe, and go from there to ensure proper level.

 

iwashmycar, in your thread it said you got "lucky" that you could access the top fill port with a bit/socket, swivel, and an extension. Looks like I might be able to do the same with the air intake hose removed, which I had to do just to see the darn plug. I see you've also been told to look in another location on the trans for a fill port, which doesn't exactly look any easier to get to from my perspective. Would be a major PITA to get that plug back in though, and many say it is PAINFULLY slow to get the fluid through.

There are a handful of guys I'm seeing say to fill from the bottom, either with a correct adapter or some improvised tool. Does anyone know if these guys are leaving the stand tube in? I'd assume they have to be? I don't think I can wait for a tool to show up....so my thought is to get a 1/8-inch male NPT fitting with a barb for plastic tube, wrap it in teflon tape, and use a hand pump that fits on top of the trans fluid quart bottle and try that. The nominal thread diameter of 1/8 NPT is 0.38 inches part way through the thread, the female pan is M10x1 thread and pitch, approx .393 inches to the thread root. should be able to get a tight enough fit it doesn't spit back out.

Anyone know or read of someone breaking a stand pipe by pushing fluid through it the wrong direction? I can't imagine so if the special VW tool I've heard about that fills from the pan drain plug works out ok, and again they can't be doing that with the stand plug removed or they'd lose a lot of fluid very fast compared to having it in with just the plug removed.

I guess my only choice really is to put in maybe a half quart of what I think is too much to begin with, then remove my tool and start the car and see if it weeps or not per "the procedure"? Then proceed from there?

 

You are correct. Royal PITA to get to that fill plug on top. There is that little black bracket or whatever it is that partially blocks access to it, so getting the tools, tube, hands ect is really tough. You would have to take the intake hoses off, move the coolant overflow tank over (like when doing an oil change), and maybe some other small things.

Yes you would leave the stand pipe in when refilling from bottom, or top, or anywhere.... it shouldnt break, BUT its just thin plastic...and over time heat and fluid can make it brittle. I handled mine like it was made of glass and it was totally fine.

If you can get enough fluid in there, then yes you should be able to check the level. Just put in what you think you lost.

 

I filled mine from the bottom with a pressurized deck sprayer. The stand pipe has to be in place to get the correct amount of oil to stay in. I actually screwed the hose from the sprayer in the drain plug hole. 4 quarts in, run to temp and drain the residue. Very easy and you dont have to disturb all that plastic and electrical on top of the engine.
You do not have to remove the sub frame either. Grind down one of those cheap hex x torx screwdriver bits to clear the frame and use a wrench

 

Dwayne C, I think on mine if I'm going through the drain hole I don't need to make any special tools, the drain plug is wide open access.

Geekd4d, Looking at the trans pan bolts, I don't think you'd get the pan off without lifting the engine assy or lowering the frame. There is one bolt I don't think you could remove without doing so.

Businesses around me have special hours right now, ran out of time last night (plus some rain) to get a hand pump/fittings. Will have a go of it tonight if the rain holds off, or tomorrow. Will report back.

Thanks all!

 

Now I know why my Independent BMW Mechanic quit working on MINI's!

 

So,

I got a small hand pump from AutoZone that fits on top of a quart bottle, a 1/4x1/4 barb fitting to get the tube longer, and a 1/4IDx1/8" male NPT plug, and filled through the drain hole. Using Royal Purple multi-spec trans oil meeting JWS3099 or whatever it is.

The numbers don't really add up... I got maybe half a quart out when pulling th plug on accident, exactly 1 quart out when I removed the stand pipe.
I put in 2 quarts, turned the car on, shifted it through the gears, and looked under, and it wasn't dripping. So I added another quart. Same, still not dripping. At this point, I honestly expected it would be pouring out with the engine on, in park, not warmed up to 40 degrees celsius yet, but nope. On the 4th quart, or rather, maybe 3.75 quarts or so, it was draining back out with the engine running and shifting through the gears a couple of times. Schwaben scan tool had the trans oil temp at 105 F and I waited until it got to a slow drain, and plugged it. Close to half a quart came out waiting for the slow thin drain.

So, Approx 1.5 quarts out, and approx 3 quarts in. With the trans pan leveled with an admittedly cheap plastic level.

Now, between the 3rd and final fluid addition, the fluid was approaching 90 Fahrenheit, and I didn't wait and start over from cold. My logic is, If I turn it on, and cycle it through the gears a few times, the 1 quart or so of cold fluid added to the warm pan has warmed up to temp just fine.

I took it for a test drive and all seemed well and good. Maybe it felt like there was a lag in the 2-3 shift, but honestly I've never thought to note what they felt like before, so I'm probably being paranoid. Next weekend, I think I'll do this all over again to get more fresh fluid in the trans, and I'l have the opportunity to take my sweet time and be PERFECTLY level.

Thoughts please?