The screw driver bit in mentioned above if to remove the pan for a filter change and to clean the magnets.

 

So for all those worried about having to drop the subframe or raising the engine/transmission, just to take the drain pan off... The reason it indicates this is for that one Torx bolt with little clearance on the corner of the drain pan. (This can be see in the newtis link in the quoted post picture 3) When I saw that requirement I thought the same of skipping that for now, I will just drain and fill. I have a 2016 R60 ALL4 (Manufacture date late 2015) and was able to do it though, without any of the subframe dropping engine/transmission raising Funtime. I don't recall which it was but, I had bought two different sets that had low profile Torx bits with them. I know one of them worked, apologies I can't remember which. I do remember though, using both of the sets for different things on this car and thinking a good thing I bought both so they are handy to have either way and not that expensive comparatively speaking. Anyway, I hope that helps someone, happy motoring.


STEELMAN PRO 78936 7-Piece Diamond Tipped Low Profile Torx Screwdriver Set

GEARWRENCH 35 Pc. 1/4" Drive MicroDriver Set - 85035, Silver


STEELMAN PRO 78936 7-Piece Diamond Tipped Low Profile Torx Screwdriver Set

GEARWRENCH 35 Pc. 1/4" Drive MicroDriver Set - 85035, Silver GEARWRENCH

 

Thanks Ivegota! Awesome find. Was going to do a second drain/fill cycle this weekend to get more new fluid into her, might just go ahead and drop the pan now.

 

I never knew that steelman pro set existed.. damn! love it.
I don't need any more tools.. but... but... but...

good find!

 

If it helps/comparison:
My local independent BMW shop *just* charged me 400 to change the ATF fluid, and the transfer/diff. mainly because they used OEM bmw and mini fluids. ($200 in fluids alone)

 

$200 in labor might be worth it to know it was done right and possibly have them on the hook for repairs if it was done wrong. Personally, after doing it myself last week, I'm nervous every time I drive the thing now that I didn't do it correctly enough.

I did reset my trans adaptations with the Schwaben tuner and that has the 1-2 shift feeling kind of goofy now. Should've driven it longer after the change before resetting adaptations.

 

One thing I never see mentioned on the trans fluid drain/fill procedure concerns me.

After filling cold and what not, with the standpipe in you bring the trans fluid temp to around 112 degrees F with the engine idling. You let the engine continue to idle, and at the right temp, you wait until the fluid coming out of the standpipe/drain hole is a slow trickle, then you put the plug back in.

What if you've put too much back in? After seeing the 112 Degrees F, while you are watching for the trickle, the car is still idling and the trans temp is still continuing to rise. If you had 1/2 quart too much fluid in, while you are waiting for that excess to drain out your trans could be well over the 112-115 farenheit mark, which means the correct amount of fluid is expanding due to heat more than you are supposed to do the procedure with, draining out, potentially leaving the trans fluid low.

Overthinking it?

 

I think you might be overthinking it, but it wouldn't hurt to call or visit an independant mini/bmw shop and ask. let them know you are doing it yourself, I've never found a shop that wouldn't help someone when they are not busy. (I grew up in a transmission shop, we always had folks hanging around asking questions. was just the norm.)

 

I think you are....after filling let it (heavily) trickle cold, then close it. Then when it heats up and expands you crack it open again and more will come out setting it correctly. The difference between cold and 112 is probably pretty minimal.

 

Okie doke. Thanks for the replies.

So I think tonight when I do the 2nd drain fill, I'm going to get the fluid to temp and remove just the plug with the engine running after cycling through gears, and let whatever want to drain, drain. Then I'll put the plug back in and let it get cold. Then I will remove the plug and standpipe, and measure exactly how much comes out, and simply replace what comes out.

Problem I started this thread with was due to having no idea what quantity came out/was left in. I think I probably overfilled it a bit last time. Should be smooth sailing from here. Thanks to everyone for their help.

 

Hopefully, when up to temp and you pull the plug you don't have nothing that comes out perhaps? In general, it seems like maybe perhaps how long the drain time is and temp being drained at that fluid may continually drain (at various rates) from the converter and such making it very hard to know for sure what the right level is and should be. Theoretically, if you know the level is spot on and right then simply draining cold (or hot) and putting back cold (or hot) what came out would work just fine. You don't want to try and drop the pan and clean the filter/magnets? Since it seems like you're at the stage of still validating the correct fluid level anyway?

 

I will do the filter, just not now. Perhaps on the third drain or maybe I'll do 4 to make sure it's all new fluid. In my mind fresh fluid is the most important thing to automatic transmissions.

I simply cant do the filter right now. With michigan being shut down for coronavirus, I've been stuck mostly working from home. Perhaps next weekend, or the weekend after my bosses will allow me to use a shop bay to do the filter. As it stands now, I'm doing everything in a crushed concrete/gravel driveway with 0 cover. I dont want the transmission open (pan off) outdoors.

I agree with you about how many small details can effect correct fluid level validation. But a couple other seemingly knowledgeable folks in this thread have given me sound advice as well as think some of those details might be overthinking it a bit.

What I'd* really like to happen for this drain cycle is to get it to temp and see some come out, maybe stopping the engine and fitting the plug a couple of times to keep the fluid from getting above 45 degrees C. And wait until it stops draining. Then proceed as I posted above, and put in just a little more than I take out, and call it good.

I am a very detail oriented person (controls systems engineer). I absolutely want to get it right.

.....and if I hadn't mucked up the oil change, I wouldn't be doing any of this. *mumbles angrily* Wouldnt know the fluid was so bad, ignorance is bliss.

 

2014MC,

Why did you say hopefully when it is up to temp nothing comes out? Wouldn't that indicate fluid level low? Anyway, that's exactly what happened. Whatever little bit was left in the stand pipe before the pump sucked up the fluid is all that drained out when plug was removed. Full drain quantity was 2 quarts. I put 2.5 qts in with fluid and trans cold, Installed plug, turned on car and ran through gears. Removed drain plug and let it drain while it was warming up, Plugged it at exactly 115 Fahrenheit. Shifting better than last time. Might've messed up with letting it drain continuously as the temp was rising.....but following the logic of how this "procedure" works, it shouldn't hurt anything.

6 mile test drive after this, trans fluid temp showed 197 Farenheit at idle sitting in driveway.

 

Basically I mentioned that aspect because then it would not have been overfilled and an indication that perhaps you actually achieved the correct fill level. If you had pulled the plug and fluid came out then something wasn't right still such as over full or the converter draining and filling up the pan... Knowing or assuming the level is correct in the first place, this factors out any converted drain or time to drain, etc. Then just put back what came out at the give temp (hot or cold) and you should be good. It is getting the fluid to the right level from scratch that is difficult and a pain. So, when dropping the pan, it may be pretty difficult to account be every drop that comes out to just put back in... Knowing the getting this procedure right is key it seems. How were you measuring the fluid temp again? OBD sensor, or non-contact infrared?

 

I was measuring temp using the OBD sensor, the live data value on the Schwaben tool from ECSTuning.com.

Hypothetically, if the fluid was at the perfect quantity and you let it run at idle in park and the fluid never got above 112 Farenheit, convertor drain wouldn't be a problem right? Sort of a closed loop between pump pickup and the various discharge points back into the pan?

I suppose in my case, potentially, nothing draining out COULD indicate an underfill condition.

 

When it comes to converter drain, its like you said not an issue when running and factored out. It comes into play perhaps when just draining hot/cold for a period of time... Sounds like you got yours set-up right to me. I think you achieve the right level.

One thing you may do to check for under fill is that if you have the level right at the given temp range with the procedure and nothing comes out then you could be under or just right. Perhaps as a final check then, let the temp climb higher (like it sounds you might have achieved) and check then. You should then be getting fluid out but this would not indicate an overfill condition because you're checking at too high a temp and would know you're right at the correct level. Make sense?

 

You're over thinking it...

Fill to the top of the stand pipe when cold, and close it off. Drive the car to get the transmission fluid up to operating temperature, and drain the fluid to the top of the stand pipe. Done.

If you want to make sure you haven't under filled it, don't get the transmission fully up to temperature and the level will be just slightly high.

 

A period of time, when the vehicle is off, I assume? Vehicle off, convertor drains to pan as the pump isn't keeping fluid in the convertor. Vehicle on, the convertor is not draining, instead it is exchanging fluid as a result of the pump. We certainly know when the pump is not running, there is more fluid present in the pan.

Your suggestion for testing via temperature makes perfect sense. Will do that for peace of mind.

 

Yes you have that scenario correct there. Also, probably more peace of mind to have a bit over than under fill.