For starters, there is hydraulic fluid under it that was dried out prior to my purchasing it.

However, I am wondering if it was replaced already and no one ever cleaned it up.

The metal part at the top of mount does not quite meet the metal part of the mount. There is black in between.

I'd rather test than replace since I hate working on this car and don't want to replace parts for nothing.

Symptoms are a rattle/knock from the right front when going over bumps. No play from tie rod ends or ball joints. The passenger cv boot is bad though. I plan on replacing the axle should I keep the car.

Any definitive tests to check the mount?

Thanks.

 

It's very hard to judge it without seeing it in person. When I got mine, the mount was bad and the car had a little extra vibration at idle. With it working properly, the car should be quite smooth at idle and you should barely be able to feel the engine running. From what you are describing, it sounds like a suspension issue. I would look at the strut mount and see if it is torn since that is easy to do just by looking at it from the top and requires no disassembly. If the rubber is cracked, you should be able to push the car up and down and see it move. Barring that, have a look at the control arm bushing and the inner ball joint, if you haven't already checked them. Remember that there are two ball joints per arm, not just one like on a normal car.

 

Thanks for this blue!

 

An easy way to test it is to undo the top bolt of the mount and jack the engine up a little. The black rubber should sit high over the mount and not be very pliable.
I had a clunk in mine going over bumps. It definitely sounded like a suspension issue but I had just gone through and changed everything recently (inners, outers, lca bushings, sway bar bushings, etc).
A new mount fixed the clunk.

 

I've found this to be pretty useful in sorting out the first generation engine mounts. You can pretty much use this for all three, but is most useful on the bottom and top engine mounts, not necessarily the transmission mount with the replaceable rubber insert.

Remove whatever mount is in question, I usually just jack up the engine and leave the jack holding the engine up so the mount can be removed completely. Inspect the mount. Make note of how poorly it is designed, especially the top mount. Then, take the mount and throw it in the trashcan. If it makes a loud clunk as it lands, it is garbage and belongs in the landfill, you should replace it with an aftermarket one.

 

$34 on Rock Auto for a new one as I write this. Understand the general revulsion to replacing part$ on these cars, but an easy enough swap to eliminate the mount as the source of the rattle. Hopefully that's all it is. Mine puked fluid all over the place when it went bad, but as others have pointed out it could still fail on you without doing that.

 

The black rubber should sit high over the mount and not be very pliable.

Sorry, but could you explain just this part another way. Sounds like this could be somewhat of an easy fix.

Thanks.

 

I don't doubt you. However, I hate working this car and that would be too much work.

Thanks.

 

I too noticed the Anchor 9775 Rock Auto replacement. Do you know if this part is good? I have a slowly growing love affair with Rock Auto over the years. The no frills no BS purchase experience at what is usually the best price.

 

Notice how the black rubber extends up out of the mount. When the weight of the motor sits on this rubber; it compresses it down into the mount somewhat.
When you take the weight of the motor (by jacking it up); the rubber should return to it's 'natural' state. If it doesn't it is probably shot and worth replacing.

 

Thanks, must have read my mind. Was looking at this picture on Amazon. So, with the top of the mount missing and no weight present, it should look pretty much like this?

Appreciated!

 

Replaced mine a couple months ago with one when I swapped in the new crank pulley. It's holding up so far in routine driving (no tracking). Maybe others can weigh in on their experiences with this particular mount and longer run times and/or harsher conditions.

And I've never had a bad part from Rock Auto, after years and many, many orders for other cars.

 

Understood, I also dislike working on my R53 as it is a hassle. When the top mount fails, I would obviously recommend the upgrade(s).


​​​​​​​My top mount was blown when I bought the car, replaced it an OEM replacement that lasted less than a year before it stated failing again. No track usage but I drive with a heavy foot.

 

Thanks all for the feedback.

So I pulled the top of the mount off (Hope I have my verbiage right). And I exposed the black piece of rubber with the stud in the middle. It is sitting at pretty much the height pictured. The mount doesn't seem to have much lateral movement.

However, I could grab the mount stud and push the mount up and down by hand with no issues. Does that seem right?

 

Since no one knows if that is right, the mount looked to be original with some 05/06/07 date stamping on it, and it had old liquid staining I decided to just get that new mount.

 

You shouldn't be able to push and pull the mount stud back and forth. Most likely means that the mount is empty of fluid. The mount is designed to handle much, much more pressure (i.e., the weight of the engine wanting to rock back and forth) than what you can produce with your hands... unless you are the HULK.

 

Your mount sounds blown to me as well.

We will be also replacing the upper mount this weekend. This one lasted about 3.5 years and nearly 30K.

I bought a Corteco brand one to replace a Lemforder. Hoping this one might will hold little longer than the last one. We shall see!

 

Thanks all. I have incredible grip but I am not that strong. Will come back and let you know how it turns out.

 

I replaced the strut mount with the rockauto one. That was a pretty easy job actually.

Thanks.