I’ve been lurking for a while here since my 16 y/o son picked up his grandfather’s 2008 R56 N12 Hatchback in April. Gramps was the original owner so we have every record since new. We finally got to a few items needing repair this past few weekends. The crankshaft oil seal was quite leaky, tensioner bolt was loose and leaking a considerable amount, front brakes and rotors needed to be replaced, spare tire was bouncing around. The crankcase breather hose was cracked while tightening the tensioner bolt, steering wheel was very sticky and a few lights needed to be replaced.

Except for the breather hose, everything was pretty straightforward ... well, a caliper mounting bolt snapped...

Anyway, here we goon the breather: The breather hose I have that runs from the PCV to the underside of the intake manifold and does not exist according to the two Mini dealers in my area (Allentown, PA and Otto’s, West Chester, PA where the car was originally purchased). The original is on your right below and the one Mini is convinced goes to my car’s serial number is on your left.



Our solution was to purchase about a foot of 3/4 inch radiator hose and connect the original two ends. Has anyone else done the same? I am a bit concerned that the tubing may wear through vibration, heat cycles or collapse from vent pressure. In our eagerness to get the car on the road again and thinking we would be okay, we just rigged it together. Insights or experiences are appreciated.

The crankshaft seal was very straightforward. Getting the N10 bolts off sans impact wrench would be difficult for those who may consider this. I’m not sure how you would prevent the crank from rotating if using a ratchet. Pay special attention to relieving the belt tensioner and friction wheel tension correctly as this system was not intuitive to me and required a bit of “Youtubery” to successfully complete.

Be careful with the M8 caliper mounting bolts. I was letting my son do the work as he needs to learn and did not notice he was turning the wrench the wrong way. I can’t imagine he put more than 75ft/lbs on the bolt before it snapped. Torque rating is 40 it think. My guess is that over the past 144K the bolt weakened significantly. We are glad it snapped when it did. Check those mounting bolts and torque to spec!

The tensioner was a real surprise. I thought for sure it was the valve cover seal per all of the experiences on this board. I think it was quit loose and not providing much tension. How does this item work?

I say this because the car is significantly quieter at start up now than it was before. My theory is that the tensioner was not doing its job and the chain was rattling a bit. Also, I think that old hard plastic breather hose had to have some other cracks in it and was throwing off the engine management calculations. That thing broke in two with the slightest pressure while tightening the tensioner bolt.

Anyway, the car proves to be a joy to work on. I love the solid German build quality. Parts are pretty cheap too. $12 for the crankshaft seal, $1.45 for the radiator hose, nothing to tighten the tensioner and I think $136 for the front brakes through FCP with a life time warranty. Except for trying to find the tight breather hose... not to bad.

 

The tensioner works by applying direct pressure through the spring to the left hand plastic chain guide. It has been 'uprated' several times by MINI as it was never up to the job. Up to the job is debatable, what the uprated spring does is applies more pressure to an already stretched chain and reduces the death rattle, this does not cure the original problem of stretch though and a stretched chain is something I would worry about as these are thin, almost bicycle chains. Although MINI say it is not a service item, it has been prudently said on here and other forums that the chain should be considered for replacement as soon as you hear a rattle, mine was done as DIY at 50K miles. 144K and I would be concerned if not done already.
There are many posts here detailing the catastrophic outcome of a chain either jumping timing or breaking. What happens is the chain slap breaks the plastic top guide and the chain jumps teeth. You can check the chain stretch using a dummy tool (google that). Nice work though, I would not depend on the radiator hose for long, it will colapse. The dealership is talking nonsense! Get onto a decent site like realoem.com and look up the correct part number and then Ebay it or go back to the dealer.

 

When you changed the front crank seal, did you use the the cam locking tools and the pin that goes in the flywheel/flex plate?? If not, you are in for a world of hurt. The timing gear on the crank is only held in by the clamping force of the pulley bolt. Same with the tensioner (using the cam tools). If you use the flywheel locking pin the crank can't move, although you should still use the proper tool on the crank pulley to hold it while removing the bolt.

 

No need to remove the bolt or the hub to change the oil seal so the center bolt should not be touched. Timing will remain good in this case.

 

Your right...forgot that the N series engines have a 2 piece pulley.

 

Thanks for the replies. I was a bit lost on the crank seal and timing relationship as I am just getting familiar with the car. As was mentioned I did not need to remove the center crank bolt. Is this just an S item? Regarding the timing chain, I will google the dummy tool. I know the top chain guide was replaced per the dealers recommendation to Gramps at 65K, maybe that helps?

Also, are there any other items I should be looking out for? I am a firm believer in preventive work. The clutch is original. As an old air cooled Porsche guy, I taught my son how to correctly rev match, double clutch etc... Gramps is a pro so I know he drove it right too. Any thoughts on replacement is appreciated.

 

I would do PM and replace the chain and guides when you get time at that mileage. I would leave the clutch until either it or the CRB gives up. It is a big job and when you get around to the clutch I would also do a lot of work that can be done more easily with the subframe out, namely - rear crankshaft seal, input shaft seal, drive shaft seals, front wishbone rear bushes to 'powerflex', thermostat housing, gearbox oil (not really for life). Obv read some guides, watch Youtube videos and a good manual and where it says replace old for new bolts they mean it as some are stretch/TTY. Good luck folks.

 

They had an update on that hose talked about it here: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ng-dealer.html

Did it not work or fit right?

Glad you were able to get things fixed. Looks like you are coming along well with the MINI.

 

No it did not fit. The link you provided above did not work for my car either. It is the same part two dealer’s recommended for my cars VIN too. Something is missing here. We had to just use 3/4 inch hose and are hoping it does not collapse. The main issue is the electrical connections are on opposite sides. The connector does not reach the new part and there is no room next to the intake manifold for it.

 

Huh, other guys said it worked? Its for that 2007-2010 N12 engine, which is what you have. That link is for your MINI. Do you have pics of what did not fit or work? First time I have heard of this,, just trying to figure out as it does not make sense. People would call and tell us, then I would report it to my inside MINI reps.

Any pics would help. Show the old part next to that new part in length.

 

Pics are in the first post. The original in on your right and the one from Mini is on your left. The one in the link you provided is the same as the one that does not fit.

 

Original on your right. Dealer unit on the left

 

Thanks
Got the length side by side?

 

Length is the same. This is the only other pic i have:

 

Thanks, length of the total hose, so i can see if there are problem.