I'm moving this from the '1st Gear' section to the general section, to look for help and guidance as I progress on the project.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Well, here is my Mini Story.

I had bought a non running 2009 Mini Cooper S, and took it to a small shop I trust in my small home town. I've had cars worked on by him before, and he agreed to take it on as a 'project', and work on it when he had some openings in his schedule, and in turn keep the costs down.

We were able to chase down the cause of the non running condition, it turns out that the timing chain failed, resulting in bent valves. Luckily there was no apparent damage to the pistons or cylinder walls, so we sent the heads off to be rebuilt with new valves and seals to fix that problem.

There were multiple electrical issues that had to be addressed, from various warning lights and tones, to wipers that wouldn't turn off. The rear hatch latching mechanism sounded like the gears were stripped out and it wouldn't open.

The interior of the Mini, while intact and in good shape, was absolutely filthy.

So after about 3 months of on again, off again work, it finally ran. Still had a few electrical things to get fixed but finally, this week it was ready to drive. I picked it up Thursday afternoon and drove it down to the gas station and filled up the tank with premium (do they all click off about 15 times in the process of filling the tank?) and headed out. I got it out on the highway and opened it up a bit, was really pleased with the acceleration and the way it drove. After about 4 miles of highway driving, I passed through a small town and turned to head back. At a stop light I noticed there was a 'tapping' coming from the engine when I let off the accelerator. Hmmm, that doesn't sound right.

As I drove back towards home, the tapping seemed to become a little more pronounced. I dropped the car off at the detail shop to get the interior cleaned and the paint polished up, with plans to pick it up on Friday afternoon so I could drive it over the weekend. I picked the car up Friday evening, and the detail shop did an amazing job, interior and paint looked exceptional, but the owner asked me about the engine. I had already called the maintenance shop and told them I was bringing it back, so I got in and drove it back (less than 1 mile) and it was clattering like crazy.

Owner of the shop pulled it in his garage, and low and behold it's thrown a rod through the block.

So, my ownership of Mini's comes to an abrupt halt. 4 Months, less than 12 miles and it's dead.

So now I own a beautiful condition, freshly detailed dead Mini.

I'm contemplating direction at this time. Do I sell it off as a 'project' car for someone else to tackle, or do I seek out a new block or engine and do some swapping? If I go the replacement engine route, any help on what engines are compatible for a 2009 S?

 

I would just put in a 2009 S engine as all the variables from a different engine would be eliminated. There has to be a ton of them for sale at this point 10 years out. I would imagine for pretty cheap too. Why not do that? Sure would be less then getting another unknown used car... unless you are considering new or CPO. And you would be confident in the new machinery.

 

Sorry...that sucks man.
So maybe the rod wasn't right all along and was really a culprit from the original timing chain issue when it slammed the valve...?
Was it on of the same cylinders that had the bent valves by chance?

Anyway, these cars suck as a "value for your money" proposition. You have to be in love with the feeling of driving a street-legal go cart or that really is no sanity in owning one. zilch. notta.

However, I would say you got ripped off on your first endeavor. I feel like you might have tried to go too cheap. So I did the same thing you did but I made sure that my issues were "manageable". I got my car for $5K but the only thing wrong with it was it needed a new HPFP. I'm not sure buying a "non-running" mini ever makes sense just because when something is wrong with these cars, the problems can be really...really....really bad. (and that's an understatement...because really really bad with a Toyota is like $1500 )

So now the only way out is you probably need to drop a new used engine into it. Tough call. I know that 30 mins of driving was fun though. No one is going to give you any value for the interior for a car that needs a new engine.

 

Short Block-$1800

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2007-2010-M...cp7~Q#viTabs_0



$2600 shipped for whole old engine/long block
134K
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2007-2010-Mini-Cooper-S-N14-Engine-Longblock-134k-Miles-R56-R55-R57-R2005/163805447837?fits=Year%3A2009%7CModel%3ACooper%7CS ubmodel%3AS%7CMake%3AMini&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash= item262390c69d:g:OxgAAOSwFbFdSEf8&enc=AQAEAAACUBPx Nw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qXgxSrnFJEfQHuiM9cJ5YWd

80K
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Mini-Co....c100005.m1851

 

These options make sense to me. The cost of replacing the car will likely exceed the cost of making this one right. Chalk it up to a lesson learned.

BTW I stopped getting frustrated with this stuff years ago. I guess life, marriage, kids, cancer, etc puts it in more perspective long term. Live life, by a fun car and enjoy it while you can. I see many guys on the old Porsche forums trading in the manuals for flappy paddles. If you love the car, make it right. If not, move on with no regrets.

 

Hard for me to fall in love with it yet, I've driven it less than 10 miles, half of that I was listening to the engine tapping.

The cost involved so far is minimal, in the grand scheme of things. I bought the car, knowing it had mechanical issues, for $1,000. I had initial hopes of getting it on the road for another $1K, but I'm guessing that goal is out the window now.

 

Oh, well $2,000 that's nothing then. Welcome to Mini Ownership. A SINGLE trip to the Mini Service dealer and usually you can't get your car back out of there for less than $1500 as it is.

If it is "just" the engine and the rest of the car is worth it...then fixing the engine right and you should be good for another 100,000 miles easy. Of course if you are only $2K in, now is the time to recoup half your investment or about $1K which is probably the most you will get for a car that won't run.

 

IMHO, you bought it as a project car from what I read and it still is :-) What I suggest is investing in some tools as you go and a workshop manual (Haynes is cheap) and begin your DIY motoring because as mentioned, one trip to the garage will pay for the tools! Your head is still good surely so go for a half engine/block if you can fine one and get stuck in, as above, stick with the same engine type and salvage the best bits from your wrecked one.

 

Now it is a "full time major project" car.

 

If you decide to rebuild, again, and do more of the work yourself, there's at least two sites you should be aware of --- newTIS for procedures and realOEM for illustrated parts lists:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/index.do
Both need the last seven characters of your VIN to ensure the correct variations are shown.

You have a few options to run with, depending on part availability, budget, and goals. There's even been a couple guys mixing parts from different engine types to build a working engine, but they're professional mechanics with lotsa Mini experience.

I've been working my project car since 2010, learning more than I ever wanted to know, but also enjoying almost all of it --- failures are hard to accept, and I've had my share.

Best of luck and keep us posted ---

 

I've got a lead on a block to replace my damaged one. Haven't gotten a firm price on it yet, but will once the yard has a chance to pull it from the car it's currently in.

 

Nice. Fully addicted now.

 

Lancaster- sounds like we may have a lot in common! I’d also recommend a replacement engine from RPM Mini in IRVING, TX. I hear good things about them and I plan on visiting their shop next time I’m in the area.

 

It's not worth fixing. Dump it and buy a car that actually runs next time.

 

If you've got a guy/shop you know/trust, I'd go the next step and replace the short block with one from a wreck. It sounds like you're getting close to having a good car, it would be a shame to stop now.

It all depends on whether you or your mechanic have the wherewithall to do the next step. If there is any lingering suspicion that the whole reason for the recent failure is something that went sideways with the repairs because your mechanic wasn't up to snuff, I'd sell for salvage, and walk away. These cars, like most BMWs, do not do well without TLC and attention to details.

- Mark

 

There is no good reason for an engine to throw a piston other than this is the same piston that previously hit the valve. I'm willing to bet you the wrist pin was damaged into the original smack of the valve.

Did he really pull the pistons and look for damage? Did he pull the oil pan out and look up inside and see if there was other unseen damage---I doubt it Now this is were the difference is between paying Mini $$$$ to do the job and getting it done for free.

I would not use that mechanic anymore....

 

I love how people just casually say "put in a new block and you are good to go" or "replace the engine and you will be good for the next 100,000 miles" Seriously???

And how do you know this block you have a lead on is any good? You don't. And forget about putting in a replacement engine, because once again you will not know if it's any good. Nobody gives a crap if they sell you bad block or engine. If the part is not good, the parts dealer will blame your mechanic for doing a bad installation and your mechanic will say the fault is not his and that they supplied a bad part. Is this the road you really want to go down? It's quite expensive you know.

If your car was a Porsche 911 which commands top dollar, then by all means spend the money. But it's not. Walk away and buy a car that actually works.

 

And there’s no guarantee that the running car won’t have have problems too? There’s just no way to know sometimes. So you roll the dice and cross your fingers.

OP, for what you paid initially for the car, you are still sitting pretty nicely, even after a short block. You have a good head that was just rebuilt. You are in good shape, if you want to diy most of it, I’d say great shape. You are still way below the value of the car if it was running, so get it there. You will fall in love with it.... or decide to sell it at that point and make a tidy profit. If you have the time and means to do so, if it was me, and if I did.... I would take the opportunity to rebuild the motor while you are at it. Then you are basically new, motor-wise. And can beef it up a little with forged internals to handle the mods and tuning you will eventually just HAVE to do! Ha ha
Good luck and keep posting your progress and what you decide.

 

We are not talking about guarantees here, (that is done at a dealership when you buy a new car). We are talking about probability, risk and money. Contrary to what you are saying - there IS a way to know and you do NOT have to roll the dice.
If the OP buys a car that is very well maintained and takes it for a long test drive (one hour) and lets it sit idle for another half hour and no issues surface, the probability that it's a decent car is pretty good. This is the path he needs to go down.

Replacing the head or doing an engine rebuild is not worth the money on a Mini Cooper (unless it is a vintage Mini). Furthermore, the probability of it failing is pretty high as most mechanics are terrible and and simply do not have the required tools to do the job right. The OP is already feeling the pain from his experience with his mechanic, why on earth would you recommend that he continues down that path?

OP, spare yourself the pain and misery and spend the right amount of money for a good car that actually works and stay out of the rebuild business. It's just not worth the risk.

 

If you do a rebuild, you have to do it yourself or you have to go to someone that has worked on hundred of Mini's that's for sure. If you are going to use the mechanic you just used, you may as well take your car out to the shooting range. It is a $ and cents decision, wrapped with risk, reward, and failure. It requires valuing the total car, the car without an engine, the cost of replacing the engine, and the valve of the car afterwards as well. Only the OP can make that decision.

 

Buy the used short block from eBay. Fully disassemble and have machine shop crack check the rods and pistons. Install ARP rod bolts and new bearings throughout. Have machine shop inspect the head that was rebuilt. Reassembly is the reverse of removal. I’d also give the water pump a good looking at and the vacuum pump as well. Use another new timing chain and splurge on the latest valve cover. It’s a fun project, and even if you are an amateur DIY mechanic you can lean on the machine shop for the critical items.

Drive and enjoy!

 

It would take me a year working on weekends and a heated garage.

 

My Mini Cooper Saga has come to a close.

After over a year of the Mini sitting at a local repair shop, and after 8 months of no action by the alleged 'mechanic', I sold it.

I spent a good amount of time considering my options; buy an engine and replace it myself, buy and engine and have someone else do the work, the costs vs rewards, etc. In no way did it make sense for me to dump more money into a car that already had a rebuilt title, and the potential for many more repairs before it was where it needed to be. I already knew of several electrical issues that needed to be addressed and the tires needed replaced. After sitting outside in the weather for a year, I'm sure the brakes would need attention and who knows what else was wrong with it. In the end, there was no emotional attachment to the car, and financially it was better to take the hit now rather than later.