R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 The cursed TMAP sensor

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Old Mar 12, 2019 | 02:41 PM
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The cursed TMAP sensor

My R53 JCW’s TMAP sensor was crumbling so I ordered a replacement from Out Motoring (who have been fantastic to deal with, btw). The first was DOA and never registered anything other than 0.0 on my ScanGauge. It was returned under warranty and I’ve replaced it with a second. It shows values
on the ScanGauge that are typical when I rev the engine. But when I put it in gear and try to move, the engine bucks, then dies, and throws the usual codes for TMAP. I can swap out the old one and everything’s great. Put in the new one, and the engine dies.

Some data points to add:
  • I cleared the adaptations with ISTA. No change
  • The one out motoring put in was OEM but not the same manufacturer as the one already in there, which I believe to be original. See pic for details. Out advises there doesn’t appear to be any spec change over the years.
  • I acquire an NGK from Rock Auto and it exhibits the same behavior as the OEM from Out Motoring. Long story on why I had this one, but it’s listed on the Rock site as being for 2003 models and not 2006. Weird.
So, my question is: what the hell? Why do I seem to have the only TMAP sensor that works with my car?
Am I going to have to build a test rig to check out the values being returned by these guys?
Old on the left, new on the right.

 

Last edited by mslatter; Mar 13, 2019 at 06:32 PM. Reason: Typos
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Old Mar 12, 2019 | 02:56 PM
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Why do they look so much different? Is it an upgrade or the wrong sensor?
 
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Old Mar 12, 2019 | 03:07 PM
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Yeah, definitely the wrong MAP sensor. The part number appears (a2c19201100) to be for BMWs N20, N55, N63 and other motors, NOT R53.

Have outmotoring get you the right sensor: 12140872679
 
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Old Mar 12, 2019 | 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Zsm
Yeah, definitely the wrong MAP sensor. The part number appears (a2c19201100) to be for BMWs N20, N55, N63 and other motors, NOT R53.

Have outmotoring get you the right sensor: 12140872679
I’ll certainly research, but check the number stamped on the upper right of the new sensor. It matches the part number, other than the 12 14 part, and I think the bag it came in was labeled with the 12 14 part. I do think this is the right part. Why it looks so different is a question for BMW, but I assume it’s just them changing suppliers over the years. But it shouldn’t behave differently, I’d think.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2019 | 07:22 PM
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This is what I found searching for 2006 S. I don’t think you have the correct sensor.
 

Last edited by Tgriffithjr; Mar 12, 2019 at 07:30 PM.
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Old Mar 12, 2019 | 07:49 PM
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Just throwing it out there but there may be different part numbers for the pre and post facelift models. The picture of the part posted looks more like your OEM piece.

When my Jeep XJ needed a crank sensor, I bought 4 different sensors from various suppliers and none worked. Bought one from the dealer and she runs like a top. Sensors can be weird.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2019 | 07:25 AM
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Go straight to the dealer for this.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2019 | 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by mslatter


I’ll certainly research, but check the number stamped on the upper right of the new sensor. It matches the part number, other than the 12 14 part, and I think the bag it came in was labeled with the 12 14 part. I do think this is the right part. Why it looks so different is a question for BMW, but I assume it’s just them changing suppliers over the years. But it shouldn’t behave differently, I’d think.
Yep, the two sensors do have that same number, however, the second set of numbers are also important. Do a search on the string, 'DC 04693279AA' and see what turns up versus ' a2c19201100'. You will see the one that looks like your crumbing one is NOT the one OutMotoring sent you. I also agree, get the factory sensor. These cars are finicky that way!
 
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Old Mar 21, 2019 | 07:32 AM
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I ended up replacing it with an off-brand (the dealer’s price was really high) and it ran fine for a few hundred miles. Now, I’m getting P1238, which seems to be for the other MAP sensor. The car runs fine but the SES is lit. I’m going to go deeper on the diagnosis later today, but is the performance of sensor 2 somehow related to the performance of sensor 1?
 
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Old Mar 21, 2019 | 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by mslatter
I ended up replacing it with an off-brand (the dealer’s price was really high) and it ran fine for a few hundred miles. Now, I’m getting P1238, which seems to be for the other MAP sensor. The car runs fine but the SES is lit. I’m going to go deeper on the diagnosis later today, but is the performance of sensor 2 somehow related to the performance of sensor 1?
I don't know if this is the rule, but it's how mine work...

#2 - the MAP sensor - will give you a 1237 and read low manifold pressure.
#1 - the T-MAP sensor - will give you the 1238 and read high manifold pressure.

Did you keep your old T-MAP,? If so, try swapping it back in, if nothing changes, there's a good chance the new sensor is bad already.

Also, try cleaning the probe bubble, quite often the sensors go bad from fouling do to burnt on oil residue from the intake tract, it may not be completely toast yet.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2019 | 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by BlwnAway
I don't know if this is the rule, but it's how mine work...

#2 - the MAP sensor - will give you a 1237 and read low manifold pressure.
#1 - the T-MAP sensor - will give you the 1238 and read high manifold pressure.

Did you keep your old T-MAP,? If so, try swapping it back in, if nothing changes, there's a good chance the new sensor is bad already.
Thanks much, and that’s what I get for trusting google results. I ran ISTA today and it informed me that it is the TMAP sensor, not the MAP. So, same piece which makes sense. It also advises that since the problem is intermittent and not currently happening, it might be the result of poor electrical connection. So, I’ll give all that a going over. And I’m going to bite the bullet and order the proper TMAP from the dealer.

 
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Old Mar 21, 2019 | 09:15 PM
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We ONLY use and recommend the original MINI Map sensors and never have issues like this with them. So my suggestion would be to get factory sensors and be done.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/map-se...-cooper-s.html
 
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Old May 9, 2019 | 07:00 PM
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Just to wrap this oldish thread up, the P1698 was fixed by replacing the TMAP sensor, which was crumbling and fell of its connectors. The P1242 was fixed by correcting vacuum leaks. My particular one was at the Bypass valve where the JCW has a T-connector to supply vacuum to the air box. And, finally, I cleared P1238 by replacing the MAP sensor. It’s possible in all my fiddling with the TMAP, that I pulled on wires enough to break something in the MAP, or it was just a timing coincidence, or some other reason that working on that TMAP also required me to replace the MAP. But it seems so far to be the lasting fix, and I’m posting it so future searchers or said codes can find some help.
 
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