R50/53 timing chain tensioner repeated failures - why?
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1st Gear
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
timing chain tensioner repeated failures - why?
I have an 05 mini with 150,000 miles. I bought it about a year ago and after about 6 months it developed the death rattle. I replaced the timing chain tensioner and the noise went away. It happened again 6 months later (probably 5,000 miles). So I replaced the tensioner again with an OEM one. Now it's just two months later and it needs it AGAIN!!!
I'm not able to find why these keep failing. It does go through oil faster than I would like. I do need to add oil between oil changes. While the bottom side of the block is quite oily, it doesn't leave any drips on the driveway, so I assume it's burning the oil. Could it be that I'm using the wrong type of oil or the tensioner isn't getting lubricated? I'd love to know what's causing this.
I'm not able to find why these keep failing. It does go through oil faster than I would like. I do need to add oil between oil changes. While the bottom side of the block is quite oily, it doesn't leave any drips on the driveway, so I assume it's burning the oil. Could it be that I'm using the wrong type of oil or the tensioner isn't getting lubricated? I'd love to know what's causing this.
6th Gear
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 1,361
Likes: 246
From: Washington state
At this point it’s probably time to replace the chain and guides. Also check your oil filter housing for leaks, It a pretty common spot to leak, and at least with mine, when it was leaking, it would drip down onto the exhaust and burn off, so it never left a drop on the ground and the only indication I ever got, aside from visibility seeing it, was when sitting in traffic I would get just the slightest whiff of burnt oil smell.
4th Gear
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 446
Likes: 69
From: Malaga, Spain
As mentioned in another forum, at 150K miles, check the engine for wear and tear with a compression test and maybe oil pressure test. No point renewing chain, etc if the engine is clapped out and buring oil, needs a rebuild.
2nd Gear
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 111
Likes: 1
Is there a typical mileage marker when the tensioner or guides go bad? My 2012 MCS only has 31K miles and the dealer told me at the last oil change that my timing chain tensioner needs to be replaced, even though I don't notice any death rattles at any time. The engine does sound loud at idle but I thought it was just typical timing chain noise.
The question is, how do you know when it's time to get the timing chain repaired? Do I wait for the death rattle or just do it preemptively?
The question is, how do you know when it's time to get the timing chain repaired? Do I wait for the death rattle or just do it preemptively?
4th Gear
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 446
Likes: 69
From: Malaga, Spain
There ia no specified timing chain or tensioner replacement mileage like other cars. Chains have been known to go from 30k+ to 100k+. Who knows.
anyway, the tensioner has been uprated three times since gen 2 cars were introduced. A new tensioner will buy time but if you have cold start rattle, and we are talking death rattle then change the chain and guides. Youtube will let you know what a real death rattle sounds like. For these engines there is always a light cd start noise, u just need to be aware of the difference.
anyway, the tensioner has been uprated three times since gen 2 cars were introduced. A new tensioner will buy time but if you have cold start rattle, and we are talking death rattle then change the chain and guides. Youtube will let you know what a real death rattle sounds like. For these engines there is always a light cd start noise, u just need to be aware of the difference.
2nd Gear
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 111
Likes: 1
I personally don't think there's a problem, but every time I take my car to the dealer for anything they always tend to find "new problems" that need to be fixed. I definitely do not have the cold start death rattle but I feel like I should get the tensioner replaced for precautionary reasons, the last thing I need is a catastrophic failure. My indie mechanic said he can do it for half the price of dealer cost, but even he was questioning the need to replace it now since I'm not hearing the cold start death rattle, he suggested to take the cover off and measure the tension and inspect the guides before changing anything, but at that point and cost, I may as well change it and be done with it, for now.
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