R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 New R53 Owner with questions

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Old Mar 5, 2018 | 07:07 AM
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New R53 Owner with questions

So hello everyone I just pick up a Mini with a blown head gasket for 500 bucks, with lots of knowledge of v-8 engines I decided to complete the job myself so here is where I was to where I'm at now

1. The car was running making noise around supercharger --- Investigated and found issue was prob water pump PTO which caused the head gasket issue
2. I found I was right purchased another supercharger at a good price on this one was from 2005 with good gears
3. So did the head gasket however I replaced and or upgraded the following
A. New type supercharger 2005
B. Head gasket with ARP head bolts torque to ARP directions
C. New water pump
D. New thermostat with Housing, when I removed old housing there was no thermostat
E. Upgrade to 17% pulley, Belt, and colder plugs
F. New Belt tensioner
G. When I was replacing Head used mini timing tool and replaced timing chain guide rails and new chain tensioner
H. Cleaned throttle position sensor (throttle body cleaner)
I. Cleaned intake (throttle body cleaner)
J. New oil
H. New Coolant

Here is where I was

A. Every time Started the engine idle jumps to around 1500 comes down then runs rough
B. getting throttle codes being too high or to low a and a few MAF sensor codes
C. After seeing really rough idles verified all items with MAF and throttle
D. after a series of clearing codes check engine light went out but I still had a rough idle

Here is where I'm at

A. Thinking possible valve issue I pulled valve cover check the timing mark and verified torque on (rockers keepers) sorry don't know what the exact name is / I was a little worried I jump timing as the chain mark on the chain itself I had previously made during the original timing evolution was over like a tooth from the timing tools and sprocket mark. The recent R53 timing question has eased that suspicion a little as it stated the chain will not always line up due to the length of it compared to gears.
B. Pulled plugs found 1 and 2 were fouled and 3/4 were fine
C. Found I installed the fuel tank evap valve on upside down ( this could be the issue, however, I haven't verified my thoughts it could be this as its connected to throttle body) Will check after a compression check
D. Will be verifying head compression once I receive compression tester tomorrow.
E. will be getting some 93 octane fuel as the tank is almost empty and I don't know how old it is


My questions

1. Anything else to accomplish besides plugs, belt, and pulley, when doing the 17% reduction
2. What should my engine compression be so I can verify
3. Any ideas what to check
4. Since I never owned one of these how much pressure comes out of exhaust? mine feels like a bunch

Thanks any help is appreciated
 
Attached Thumbnails New R53 Owner with questions-img_8480.jpg   New R53 Owner with questions-img_8481.jpg  
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Old Mar 5, 2018 | 07:26 AM
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Whine not Walnuts
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From: Fuquay Varina, NC
Going to move you to the Stock Problems/Issues section.

Might be as simple as bad gas
 
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Old Mar 5, 2018 | 07:44 AM
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Thanks ,I posted in this area because of the 17% pulley addition with hopes someone could provide guidance, again any direction of the possible problem is appreciated.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2018 | 07:48 AM
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From: Fuquay Varina, NC
What were the codes? You sure the rubber boots are properly seated on both ends of the supercharger?
 
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Old Mar 5, 2018 | 08:10 AM
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Yes I did verifiy, seemed on the out side there was a small leak on bottom, after I fixed that the engine light went away , however I stopped the trouble shooting that area due the rough engine idle ,I was at that point last night when I removed the valve cover to check valve train (my V-8 days I guess) and I then I found the issue of 1 and 2 cylinder fouled plugs. Tonight when I get home going to re-install valve cover , ensure plugs are not fouled ,triple check intercooler boots , new fuel , and then see how it runs. Could be I'm over thinking items or that I was just plain tired
 

Last edited by boucherjr; Mar 5, 2018 at 08:41 AM.
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Old Mar 5, 2018 | 08:51 AM
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I would start by verifying there are no vacuum leaks as that would be the first thing MAP codes detect and then go from there. Also make sure you are using a real MINI/BMW code reader as they will give you much more info than a generic tool and point you in the right direct easier.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2018 | 04:49 AM
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Thanks for the sound advice, I believe I found the issue, with a little help of some throttle body cleaner found that the intake duct attaching to the supercharger has a vacuum leak ,what I thought was maybe the duct shorten up a little bit due from time and heat also lloks link all the connections are poorly manufactured looks like the plastic was heated up and items connected. I learned that they all look like this from pictures I also learned through my reading and searching on here is that this thing is just a pain and has to be forcably pushed on the supercharger. I do have a question for the two vacuum lines though , map and the brake I couldnt find it for the life of me last night does it matter which port on the duct they are connected to ? Currently MAP (gray) is connected to the port closest to the throttle body.

Thanks for the help
 
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Old Mar 8, 2018 | 04:47 AM
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All

Before I put the mini back together can anyone confirm which port MAP sensor goes in and which port the brake vacuum goes in on the plastic intake duct connected to supercharger . I bought the big expensive book and even that doesnt address it.

Thanks again
 
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Old Mar 12, 2018 | 11:04 AM
  #9  
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Its running all is well
 
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Old Mar 12, 2018 | 05:24 PM
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exc job !!!

Congrats on a " STEAL" $ 500.00 !!!!!!!

And welcome !!!
 
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Old Mar 12, 2018 | 06:08 PM
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Up next brakes and right front cv axle .
 
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Old Mar 13, 2018 | 04:54 AM
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Originally Posted by boucherjr
Its running all is well
Can you share with us what it ended up being and the process you took to solve it?
 
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Old Mar 13, 2018 | 05:24 AM
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Seems the air duct to the supercharger wasn't sealing properly when I tried to put it on it seemed overly difficult. it actually looks like over time it may have shrunk due to heat, so I found another one online, not too expensive and swapped it out with a new gasket, also added some RTV to the inner portion of the duct and to be sure I put another small bead in front a lightly spread it out. After it sat overnight I used the ECU clearing procedures I found online then started it up. I'm new to the R53 stuff messed with my daughters R56 mini base a little. I have come to realize these cars seem very temperamental.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2018 | 05:31 AM
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Thanks for the response. Glad you got it figured out.

It helps future viewers who are looking to find help for their problems (usually in their garages & work spaces).

Trust me, you don't have to tell me about how temperamental R53's are. Unfortunately, I live with it far to often.
 
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