The basics,

2011 R56S N18 Manual Trans with 103,xxx Miles

Clutch lines, master cyl, and slave cyl were replaced around 40,xxx miles due to debris damage

I have been running Synthetic DOT 4 Fluid that looks clean.

The last few weeks the car has required more and more pressure on the clutch pedal to start the car.

I replaced the clutch position switch which didn't change anything.

The clutch feels normal while driving and the engagement point has not changed for changing gears or getting the car moving from a stop.

I have checked for pedal obstructions and found nothing.

Is there an adjustment on the pedal rod, or clutch that I missed?

Any ideas where to start diagnosing? I am anticipating a new clutch soon but its not slipping or even feeling worn at this point.

Thanks,

Sean

 

just a thought...does the break paddle feel that same thing in terms of applying pressure? are you low on break fluid, has it been properly pumped to restore fluid in the line. finally, how is the vacuum pump doing?

 

Vacuum pump was just replaced this weekend, no sign of oil in the lines.

Brake pedal is normal.

Fluid level is good.

Pumping the clutch does not seem to effect it.

Sean

 

Sometimea with air trapped in the clutch line, it wont have pressure to push the plate all the way. But you said once you drive it is normal, right?

 

Correct.

Sean

 

I cannot think of anything else other than reflushing the system! collect the fluid in a bucket for reuse or disposal of there are particles.

let see if someone else has this issue. personally, my peddle is stiffer but i dont mind it.

 

I don't mind a stiff pedal but I am worried about getting stuck somewhere because I can't get the clutch pedal switch to engage.

I will see if I can figure out a way to swap the fluid out. I have bled brakes before but never a clutch.

Sean

 

if you look at number 13. there is where you would bleed it.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=21_0228

 

I had another thought earlier, the battery was replaced a few years ago under warranty. Since the sensor is (I believe) a hall effect sensor and reports a voltage to the ecu could a bad battery be the reason for the issue? Like mentioned above, the clutch seems normal everywhere else.

Sean

 

If the sensor is bad, the car wont start as its primary funtion to tell the ecu that "hey, im depressed and you can start.." type of thing. The issue i think it mechanical.

 

smokeysevin, did you buy your MINI new? If you bought used, someone may have installed a "clutch-stop", basically a taller version of the stock rubber clutch-pedal stop on the floor of the MINI. I did this on my 2011 MCS because of the "dead space" at the bottom of the clutch pedal travel. I bought the BMS version, as seen on my profile. Check and see if you have one of those installed. I like mine, but it took some "getting used to".

 

 

Sorry to leave yall hanging, it was sort of bad news.

I lived with it for a few weeks after that until one evening I went to start the car and the pressure eased off as the car started. It was accompanied by an awful clacking noise at which point I bought a clutch setup from jmturbocoopers


Mini uses a plastic pivot that the clutch arm rides on that is connected to the throw out bearing. On my car the clutch arm had gotten knocked off the throw out bearing center pivot slightly and had started to eat into the trans casing. The extra effort was caused by the clutch arm being worn into the side of the throw out bearing which put extra pressure on the system.


That is sort of a crap explination but ultimately my clutch, flywheel, and master/slave cyl were fine but the throw out bearing, pivot, and arm were all damaged. So it still resulted in a new clutch.

hoop yall get better news,

Sean

 

Thanks for the explanation. Sounds like the same problem I am having. Do you have any pics of the failed parts or P/N's? I just pulled my slave and took some pics of the fork and case wear. Did it look like this? Offset clutch fork
Trans case wear

 

Well after studying diagrams and pics online I think I understand what is going on here. As the OP suggested the fork slipped off the Pressure Pin, item 2, p/n 23-11-7-545-084. See diagram attached. I was able to persuade my fork back onto the pressure pin using a prybar however it looks like there is a wire clip/spring to hold the fork onto the pressure pin to keep it from popping off. See diagram and pic. I wouldn't be surprised if my and the OP's spring missing or damaged. My slave cyl developed a leak in the process. I'm hoping re-seating the fork and replacing the slave will buy me some time so I can save for a new clutch before dropping the trans. Updates to follow...

 

The pressure pin was intact and functional on my car. The clutch arm actually slipped on the throwout bearing. I will try and upload a picture when I get home tonight. That is the same spot that my case was worn at but mine was not all the way through as yours is.

Sean



Cracked and damaged throwout bearing



Source of awful noise, the clutch arm hit the clutch here



Groove in transmission housing due to damaged throw out bearing



JMTurbocoopers lightweight steel flywheel vs dual mass, this setup uses the stock clutch disc and housing