I gave a 2009 JCW that I bought new. I now have 125k miles and need a clutch. It is starting to shudder at clutch engagement.
Any how-to videos regarding changing a clutch?
Any "special" tools required?
Should I change the rear main while in there?
Any special tool needed for the seal replacement?
Any other parts I should have on hand, i.e., single use clips, tubes or hoses that break?
Anything else I should service while I gave it torn this far down?
Thanks,
Dennis

 

Hi Dennis!

Here is the package you need and alignment tool and locking pin.

http://new.minimania.com/part/G2NMG7...m-Gen2-R55-r59

Though not for your exact year, these may provide a guide:



Please let us know if we can help!

Drive Hard. Drive Safe. Keep Grinning.

 

You have been pretty good to go to 125K without a replacement. You certainly have a well maintained car. The fix must be quite expensive if the entire front end has to be lowered.

 

Yikes! What a bear of a job.
Thanks for the tip on the alignment tool.
I guess I can't complain at 125k. I also got 105k out of the brakes.
I will probably end up having a local shop do this work. They quoted me $2700 with all factory parts including a new flywheel. I can't imagine the old flywheel will be usable.

 

That's a pretty decent price as it takes about 10 hours to change the clutch without removing the engine. You'll definitely want to change the clutch fork, pivot pin and bearing sleeve. With as many miles as yours has I'd recommend changing the input shaft seal, axle seals and slave cylinder while its apart. Those don't take long and are cheap insurance.

 

This is a lot of money. I cannot figure how I would be willing to spend $3K on repairs for a Mini.

I always buy new cars (no lease) and sell before 3 years with about 30K miles when still under warranty.

This option has always worked fine for me in the last 25 years and I have never been concerned about expensive repairs

I still have one more year of Mini ownership before it will go on the block for sale. At that time, it should be around 32K.

I don't see any other Mini on my list unless a new Coupe would come.

 

You should be able to source your own clutch and flywheel and get it done for a lot less than that quote.
Rock auto has your parts for $1000
10 hours labor even at the dealer is $1000
So that's quite a savings

 

Dealers in NY must be charging a lower rate. Fort Lauderdale dealers charge between $125 and $150 per hour. An independent BMW shop in Pompano quoted one of my customers $2K in labor since they drop the engine and trans together.

 

It's 95 an hour at my mini dealer. Either way if you have a preferred Indy you should still save a good chunk.

 

I never swap flywheel unless it shows signs of uneven wear, and even then I go for a resurfacing first

 

-It is a bear of job to do the clutch on most front wheel drive vehicles, and the Mini looks to be exceptionally tight. ( I haven't done a Mini yet, but I've done other cars.) There's a lot of interferences to remove to replace the clutch.
- You definitely need the alignment tool, and you will either have to position the transmission from below, or on an overhead transom to get it positioned correctly for installation.
- 125k miles out of a clutch leaves a lot of room for complaint in my opinion. I put 330k on a Saab 900SE, 700K+, between three Toyota 4WD trucks, 200K on a Corolla, and never had to replace a clutch in any of them.
- If you don't already have most of the tools to do this job, you're probably better off having it done.
- Those two videos are really good vid's for a clutch replacement. He does a few things that I probably wouldn't, but you definitely come away with an understanding of the scope and steps involved.
- Whether you choose to do the work yourself, or have it done, I would seriously consider tigger2011's advice to replace the additional peripherals while you're replacing the clutch. It would suck to get it all done, only to have to do it again.
- I've been wondering if that flywheel needs to replaced with a clutch. I know they say to replace it, but that's a big $$$$ item.

- I don't need to replace my clutch at this point, but based on the info available on this forum, and others, I don't expect to get the type of clutch performance out of a Mini, that I have on my other vehicles, so I'm getting ready to do it when necessary.

- How did you ever get 105K out of the OEM brakes? That's amazing.

 

I did my wifes r56 clutch in the garage but I have a 2 post lift, it was quite a bit of work.

My alignment tool failed, I used a socket with some tape on it instead. I would definitely do it again, 1500 in labor buys a lot of tools

I did not have to replace the flywheel, depends on the condition of yours and they can be resurfaced too I did the pivot pin & throwout bearing but that's it

 

I don't understand why Mini have not been redesigned with a complete front subframe to drop everything to save time. Even regular maintenance or service to some components seem very often a nightmare that requires to dismantle the complete front end of the car.

 

To me it seems that people need to just except that putting the car in service mode may take some extra time. I would much rather do that then fight in a small space for 4 hours getting pissed off.

 

you will be getting pissed for more than 4 hours if you are doing a clutch, I think it books at 10 hours, took me longer as it was my first mini clutch

 

I have a 2 post lift too, so that would help. How does the engine get supported to remove the transmission and still be able to use the lift?
And what is the "alignment tool" mentioned in a few posts?

 

I used one of those harbor freight cross frame engine brace things

when you line up the clutch into the flywheel you have to center it perfectly so the transmission will slide in. They make a pin that will align it most clutch kits come with the pin/tool now

 

I saw that but the engine lift point is not even close to being in line with the shock towers. I was wondering what it would rest on.

 

it rests on the car body, barely enough room, it does not have to be an exact straight lift