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Got the 17% pulley installed over the winter. 1st day over 75* F and about 700 miles later I got some vibration and burning rubber smell 3 miles from home after getting off highway.
The video (~9 seconds long) shows the sound, wobble, and belt hitting the spline ends.
Question is which pulley is causing the issue and what's the fix?
TIA
Can't open it...but sounds like a failed crank pulley....
Fix is a new one...PRW, or ATI make ones that is of a different , longer lasting desgin...
The OEM one is two Metal bands with a rubber insert...it fails with age, and tears.
Last edited by ZippyNH; May 12, 2016 at 12:26 AM.
Reason: Fixed auto CORRECT....
Burning rubber does sound like the harmonic balancer (crank pulley). Good NAM thread HERE with some additional info. The picture below is what the one on our R53 looked like when we pulled it off. If you have the tools and are DIY savvy we have a great tech article that can help you with the replacement if you determine that is your issue.
I pulled the wheel and the liner off to get a closer inspection.
It [crank pulley/balancer] is definately wobbly but all the rubber looks ok- from the outside.
Do these typically fail from the inside out?
Also, if the syptoms (wobbly pully, smelly belt, slightly audible) are as obvious as mine seem to be, how could this ever be over looked?
I ask the last question because Im slightly freaked it could be the WP bearing, SC pulley installed wrong, AC bearing, belt tensioner, or worse...crank hub.
Sometimes they tear... sometimes they slip...if it wobbles...I would call it bad...the fact you smell rubber...that is the giveaway imo. Some report a "popcorn like " smell sometimes .
They go when they go...with the belt off...you can check all the stuff you are worried about...
If you just did a sc pulley. Make sure you tightened it down...good and tight.
If the belt was smoking...slipping...making the smell...it would be visibility worn pretty fast...
But like I said...you can reach down...spin the alternator and the sc pulleys by hand a bit...be tight..but not seized ....ac might be harder.
Typical when the harmonic damper fails...time to tow a car...
Leading up to it, sometimes there are warning signs...some tear and go fast...some slip...and grab...and slip...so driven with no lights or ac, driven lightly, it's ok ..but hit the gas...crank up the ac...then it slips... suddenly the alternator light comes on, car starts to overheat, and a bunch of codes...
They shut off the car...starts up...sometimes ok... for a bit...each time it tends to shorter before episodes...
Not good for the headgasket....folks sometimes keep going saying it was ok on a restart...
Trying to diagnose something online is pretty near impossible...we can only give you the symptoms...let's you look..if you don't know what too look for...time to take a chance...might cost you $$ or save you $$ or get help from a friend or pro.
Last question in this subject. New damper came today.
I remove the failed OEM (84000 miles).
I used the 3 arm puller and everything went according to plan!
Should I be concerned about timing when installing new? Installing in an hour. TIA!!!