R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 Bits of plastic in Oil Pan-No Rattling Noise

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Old Apr 30, 2016 | 07:58 PM
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Bits of plastic in Oil Pan-No Rattling Noise

Hello everyone,

Recently I was replacing an oil pan gasket and noticed that I had pieces of plastic in the oil.

Upon some reading on the forums, i quickly realized that those bits of plastic are from the timing chain guide rail.

Now here is my question:

If the timing chain tensioner is broken (or on its way out), will you always here a rattling noise coming from the engine? Or only sometimes?

See, I am not the first owner of this MINI and thought that MAYBE, the pieces of plastic could be old, and the chain tensioner components have since been repaired? The only reason I think this could be is because i do NOT have any noticeable rattling...so maybe my tensioner is A-okay?

Also, I am not sure if those bits of plastic would (or wouldn't) find there way out of the drain plug during oil changes...so maybe they have been sitting at the bottom of the oil pan for a couple years?

Any thoughts? Thank you.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2016 | 09:23 PM
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David.R53
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So, yes the plastic bits can sit in the pan. The oil drain hole is pretty small, so the oil doesn't get very stirred/agitated on the way out. The couple of times I've had the pan off there is always some sludge or particles accumulated around the edge.

However, the guides can wear and break down without (initially) making a lot of noise. I think it is worth the time (or cost) to remove the valve cover and inspect the guides carefully. An easy fix at this stage. Much worse if it wasn't fixed and is allowed to continue.
 
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Old May 1, 2016 | 03:34 PM
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Thank you David.R53,

Can you actually see the suspected plastic tensioner from the valve cover? there seems to be no videos or articles on inspecting this guide. My gut tells me I need to remove the timing belt cover from below, as the guide is just above the harmonic balance.

Im just a bit confused. Do I take off the top or the bottom timing cover?
 
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Old May 1, 2016 | 03:51 PM
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I'm assuming you have a MCS, but see you didn't say that.

They can be inspected (and replaced if needed) from the top. Take off the main valve cover and they will be visible on the end. No need to remove the timing cover for this.

Plastic chain guides. The tensioner is all steel.
 
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Old May 1, 2016 | 04:19 PM
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yep, an R53 indeed!

So, Im assuming that once the valve cover is off, the plastic guide can be removed with the single bolt at the top, and then I can pull the guide straight up and out from the top?

Also, If it turns out that this guide IS in fact broken, can I just replace it with a new one, or does this damage suggest that there lies a bigger issue?
 
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Old May 1, 2016 | 04:54 PM
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I don't think you can get the guides out without taking the cam sprocket off.

I had mine out when I did the head, so I'm not positive, but I'm pretty sure there isn't enough room to replace them with the chain on.
 
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Old May 1, 2016 | 05:21 PM
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General idea is correct. If they are broken, I would think hard about doing some preventative maintenance - but I'm like that...

If they are broken, my approach would be to replace both guides of course, the chain, cam sprocket (only maybe item here), chain tensioner, and the oil pump (built into the timing chain front cover). Drop the pan and clean it properly if you have the patience - and definitely change the oil filter and again in 500-1000 miles (don't need to replace oil then).
 
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Old May 2, 2016 | 03:17 PM
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the guide rail twas broke! I put a new one in! Is there a torque spec on this guide rail bolt? couldn't seem to find one anywhere.
 
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Old May 2, 2016 | 05:07 PM
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Glad you found it then. Will look up the torque for you a little later
 
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Old May 9, 2016 | 02:47 AM
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Originally Posted by SooperCoopers
the guide rail twas broke! I put a new one in! Is there a torque spec on this guide rail bolt? couldn't seem to find one anywhere.
Did you have to remove the sprocket?
 
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