Finally decided to share my story on my MINI build.
In this thread, you will be able to see the progress on my time attack car build,
but before I start, let me share what happened to this tiny little green turtle since born.
After 3 years of peaceful north american life, I had her cross the Pacific for one goal : making her the fastest MINI in Korea.


Yes.. something must have happened during that 5 years...



From a dealership, downtown Vancouver, CANADA 2011





To a scary winter race track pavement in Korea 2015

Please understand it's not easy to write all 5 years of story in just one post,
But I will try my best to finish "the past" in couple of posts and make this thread "real-time"

After last winter track test, my mini is known as the fastest mini in Korea, even without major power mods.
Everytime choosing products and deciding direction of tuning,
I've been always pursuing "Lightweight and Nimble" rather than "Lots of power but Hard to use"

Right now I am gutting unnecessary parts like Air Conditioning and washer bottle, and doing more fabrication/customization rather than just using bolt on parts. So here it starts!

 

At the beginning.



Day1. The day I got the car at Yaletown MINI, BC, CANADA.
2011 R56S LCI, with well equipped option list.
I can remember some of the options here : EDLC, Sport suspension, Panoramic roof, Harman Kardon, Easy access, Manual tranny, Winter package, BRG color, Black headliner, Black wheels, Black headlights.
Too bad most of them are now useless since I barely use the car on the road. (And many of them will be gutted in a year..)







From the beginning, I took her to the local track when everything was still stock(incl. tires and brake pads)
Stock mini was so capable, tough and fun.








Then I wanted to improve my driving and compete with other cars.
Autocross was the way to go.
Prepped my car for D Street class(former D Stock) with
Hotchkis 25.5 rsb and OZ alleggerita 16x7 with Zii tires.
OZ Alleggerita is pretty decent and strong wheel and I used that wheels to make mini lap record in Korea.








With stock shocks and 383% stiffer rear sway compared to stock mini S, my mini was 3-wheeling everywhere, made my car famous among local car guys.
Known as "Crazy mini"/"Crazy driver", But I preferred my mini to be called Green Turtle.






Green Turtle Racing (GTR, to make fun of GTRs at Auto-X haha) finally achieved 2nd place in DS class for 2014 VCMC Auto-x season.
Was happy since I was on stock shocks while competitors were armed with Fatcat custom/Koni Race shocks. :D







Oh, I forgot to mention I ride "with" actual Green Turtle at Auto-X and Track.
This magnet turtle sometimes slides to back when I drive my car too fast.








I wanted to resist to the people saying "MINIs are town car, not for long distance travel(Grand touring)."
So I took my mini to 3600kms(2236 miles) road trip including Laguna Seca track event. (Vancouver, BC - Monterrey, CA - Vancouver, BC)









After that, I started to move over.
Started to prep the car as per my taste, not for the Auto-x regulation.
I decided to take the car to Korea with me to achieve something greater.
.

 

Transform starts.
I do most of the job by myself as possible.



Forge intercooler installed. (Didn't wanted to get something too big for reason.)







Took this goose out of the car, to cut it and seal it.
(But that goose is completely out of the car by now..)







Tried to fit Sneed's brake duct kit.
NM Charge/Discharge pipe was installed as well.
NM quality never put me down.







Drilling on bulkhead for DOS intake. I like the design and concept of DOS, but seems the filter is relatively small-ish for higher boost setup for the future.








JCW body gives many advantages...
I had to admit JCW body makes car x2 nicer/sick.
And it makes your car effective GP rear diffuser capable
I didn't wanted power. I wanted perfection without power.

I concentrated on aero/efficiency/cooling and suspension mods first.






FIS0 helps.








Side skirt... JCW body installed at the parking lot!
ByeBye LCI body~








GP belly pan. (and side under panels)
Yes, GP underbody adds a little more weight, but it's on the bottom and aerodynamic gives a lot more advantages at track.
Proven from my co-workers' time attack car build.






With extra set of wheels (for road use mated to Pilot Sport A/S 3),
Car was ready for shipment.
Because Korean transportation law is not allowing further modification, I had to stop and take all the parts to Korea for further build.
.

 

Picture from Shipping firm before the shipment.
Putted in a container, anchored tight, ready to cross the Pacific.








After full month of sailing, She has arrived in Korea.
yes.. with lots of dust! haha.







Started to work in a Motorsport related company called "MotorKlasse",
got a lot of chance to learn more about high performance driving from champions.
MotorKlasse is an official distributor for Radical Sportscars for Korean market.








Prior to prep Green Turtle a serious track car, I wanted to participate the biggest mini related event in Korea.
"MINI RUN Korea" run by Miko(Mini Korea) club, supported by BMW/MINI Korea AG.







10th Korean MINI Run. That event was so special to me since I am the founder of the Miko Club.
(Established in 2004)
I was happy many miniacs welcomed me and my Green Turtle.








Hot Korean chics also welcomed my mini. (Seems like girls always prefer new collections tho)








Since March 2015, I took my car to many track events/time trial races.
Rain or Shine, Day and Night.







When it rains or at night, no one seemed to want to be on track.
I pay $45 for 25 min and Green turtle occupying the whole track.









Here I am attaching some exciting(hopefully) videos -

Track driving under hard rain>





Track driving at 0:30 am>












Had a chance to race with Elise R at Korean style of Autocross.
(It's like rally cross / ROC - race of champions)








And the Green Turtle again.








My story and my car have been featured in Motortrend magazine (Korean edition for sure).
They are Photoshooting my car.








November 2015, we had Korean version of MINI CHALLENGE, and that was the last event before I took my car to our workshop for further Aero/Drivetrain update.

Green turtle was able to take 2nd place at BMW Driving Center full course at Mini Challenge.

So, from the next post, I will be able to update with actual "build" contents. Stay tuned!

 

What a wonderful story! The turtle on the door is great. Congratulations on the feature in Motor Trend Magazine. And congrats on 2nd place as well. Looking forward to seeing the build details and thanks for sharing!

 

Car is looking great Aaron! Cant wait to see whats next!

Theres almost no MINIs at autox anymore. Its only me and Andre now. We miss your green turtle 3-wheeling haha

 

Thx! :D I am glad to finally share my whole story, and glad to my story isn't end yet.
I am putting a lot of time and effort during this winter,
more interesting build posts are coming up!

 

It was such a joy to be on Auto-x pad with that unbalanced setup(and still beating lots of miata's and higher powered cars)

Seems Koreans making Auto-X dedicated pad as well as drag strip not far from Seoul, guess I will have some chance to do show off runs there. :D

 

So, from the beginning, I didn't wanted to do things too soon in terms of modifying my mini.

I have enjoyed how stock MINI setup performs at high performance driving,
then I had to resist modifying to compete in D Street class Auto-xing.
Then again, I had to ship and register my car in Korea that prevented me from doing real build.
So, basically my car was on stock suspension, stock power, stock interior for 3 years since the purchase of the car.

What I've done is, I bought parts and shipped the parts with the car to Korea and done things fast.




I was lucky to build my car with pros.
The facility above is the workshop, a division of the company I am working.







Specialized in race car prep, race parts development.
The shop helped me to modify/improve products with their CNC machine/3D printer and most important.. Field experience.







This is what they develop, integrated race display/data logging system and steering control.
My mini will get that job done eventually.







CNC facility








Race car storage








Good to have a workshop, but some of the job done at my office/showroom (picture above)

RECARO SP-GTii, which is not available in North american market.
Retail price $3,000 with brakets and mounts but it really worth the money.







Installed.
*included air bag canceller(registor) wasn't right for my car.
can't remember exactly, but the included registor was 2.2 ohm, and my car wanted 3.3 ohm.
And realized that R56s for Korean(Asian) market didn't come with Seat rail distance unit(magnet), while mine(north american version) did.







That side support gives you more contact with your body at braking/cornering situation.
I am having many chances to seat on other Recaro like RS-G shells as well, and my SP-GTii gives a lot more confidence/feedback compared to others.







Stud conversion to M12 1.5 pitch.
That gave me a lot of choice with wheel nuts.






RAYS 2-piece wheel nuts, not the lightest, but durable and slick.






British car deserves british gauge.
Stack pro-control step motor gauges are on.
(DIY job left several scars on my hands during the wiring...)

*$0.02 from my experience.
I also installed oil-pressure gauge at the same time, but finally decided not to use it.
Reason is, my race shop and racers told me that craven speed oil sensor adapter is too long and heavy, can be broken from the continuously exposed in race/track condition(engine vibration/rattle).
I am sure many mini owners have been using the adapter with no issue, but how many hours they put they mini on race tracks?
Asked Craven about that, have been told they can't guarantee in my case.
So I passed on it, proly will connect the sensor when I do oil cooler plate later.







Hmm, at that time that was my best bet on suspension setup.

Ohlins Road & Track / Vorshlag camber plate / Hypercoil springs of my own choice / Hotchkis camber arms.








I like Vorshlag so far,, Durable under harsh track use. I hope it can hold one more season before over haul.







That setup was pretty nice for 50:50 track and road use since I had to use my car to participate Korean mini club meets,
but as I do more track activities, Road & Track was turned out not that customizable to achieve my own setup.

->Stroke(Travel) is too long especially at the rear
Basic damping is only good for roughly 450lbs springs
NOT A SHOCK BODY ADJUSTABLE... That gives me a lot of hassle now since I can't set my own preload for my local tracks.







Superpro Austrailia makes the best bushings.
I got caster increase offset bushing too give more caster at the front.
Result was very noticeable.







In the middle of 2015 season, I experienced annoying weired noise from the rear, turned out rear subframe shifted/tilted at the mounting position from the tough local track layout.
My aid was Trailing arm bushing and Spoon rigid collar kit(will post later)








Too bad Superpro doesn't make trailing arm bushing for R56, I used Powerflex.







During the season, I've tried several sets of springs for front/rear,
Diffrent rate and different length..

I should have gone someting more suitable for race..
I want AST5300 custom. (but that costs $7000 haha so not for now.)








Last picture of todays post.
Ballistic LiFePO4 with BMS.
Too bad, that type of battery wasn't suitalbe for mini R56.
Cranking power was okay, but I experienced sudden powersteering out, audio out, headlight out.
I guess electric steering and many other electric gadgets doesn't like the battery pulse/type.
It was so scary on the way back from the workshop to my place at 2:00 am.

I'm always aiming for building a lightweight car rather than powerful car.
Light weight battery was also one of the key to make it light.
Now I am using the smallest Acid battery available in Korea (23lbs),
and waiting to get an Braille AGM 2015 one, will relocate the location to passenger seat.

Stay tuned!

 

Build post #3.



Working for a company which is an authorized dealer for Linear Logic,
I asked Linear Logic to make korean(metric) version of Scangauge II MINI,
and many Korean MINI owners enjoying the variety of information now. :D
Such a great gadget you can monitor oil pressure / engine temperature / engine oil temperature / intake air temperature while you are attacking track at time trial.








An action shot from May 2015.
Korean F1 circuit (FiA Grade 1 track).
The Red/Black S2000 at the front is one of our demo car, the fastest 2 liter naturally aspired car in Korea. (Stock power like my mini)







Luckily, I was able to be on podiums at Time trial events.









I finally decided to do surgery for the drivetrain.
I planned it for many years, so I didn't hesitate once I decided.

OS Giken 1.5 way LSD and OS Giken Clutch+Flywheel package.







Workshop again.








LSD.
EDLC have been serving well for 4 years, now it got a friend.
Electric LSD mated to Mechanical LSD.









Choosed STR spec Clutch.









(Stock Clutch+Flywheel)



(OS Clutch+Flywheel)



(Stock Diff)



(OS LSD)


Overall, saved some weight again.








They are in.







My NM(?) torque mount insert showed a little issue(stopper/holder gets bent, making mount rubber to come out from the housing under movement in my case), did some first aid with silicon injection.
Thinking to get BSH, anyone have experience?
I want not too harsh but firmer than "insert type" mounts. (harsh makes more trouble)








Got Sneed4Speed aero kit, hoping to make my rear wheel planted a bit.
I had to sacrifice on the weight saving, but since I was having trouble with rear grip at corners that was the way to go. (See the video below)











Sneed kit is a proven and durable but I want perfection. I had my shop modify the kit to my taste.

First of all,
Wanted to make front splitter removable, welded nylon nuts onto metal plates, and used rivet to fix the plate on the bottom side of bumper.
Now I can use bolt from the bottom side of splitter to detach/attach it at track.

I feel the splitter is a bit too heavy, going to make my own splitter at the end of this year.
(Either aluminium or honeycomb carbon fiber structure)








Rear wing is on.
So the side splitters, front splitter. :D








BROS(My workshop) also improved the way it attaches onto mini.
They splited the sneed bracket, cut out the rear trunk lid to make the look better and flushed.
(Rather than just installing without lid cover or putting the bracket on the lid top)
brackets are rivetted onto the sheet metal underneath the lid cover.








Done.
Everyone admits the car looks much much better and aggressive with Sneed Aero kit.
Thx Sneed4Speed for making such innovative kit for MINI.







So I wanted to test the Drivetrain/Aero mods on track.
My goal was to verify if the aero kit really can stand the wind pressure at speed(V max at the track is around 120mph(190kmh)).
and to see if LSD/Clutch can make a magic.
also if I can utilize 100% of LSD on track.

It was snowy cold day.











Track test.
INJE speedium circuit, FiA grade 2.

Because of the flurries / low temperature, I used All season tires for the first 3 sessions,
and I easily broke my previous lap record(record with Dunlop Direzza Zii star) by 1 second with All season tires.

Then, I wanted to use my attack tires(205 50 16 Zii starspec),
The result was another 3 seconds shaved off from the record with all season tires.

So my previous record with same wheels/tires/power - 1:59.9 ish..
After LSD/Clutch/Flywheel/Sneed Aero AND All season tires with heavy BBS RGR wheels - 1:58.9
AND with 205 dunlop Zii - 1:56.1

Here is the onboard videos with all season and dunlop.


















That lap time made my mini the fastest mini in Korea.
(Faster than 250+hp minis)

Did I say I am still on stock power?
Stock ecu, stock turbo, stock cat converters, stock downpipe.

Now where I need to go?

What should I do next?

To be continued... (Spoon rigid collar, Additional weight reduction, new wheel/tires and more customized parts)

 

Hmmmm....
It does seem that you have spent more than just a little bit of time on the track...

Nice driving.

I like your track run in the winter. It is much like driving in the rain. The reduced traction is a good way to learn about the car.

Question - have you thought about installing a 26 or 27 mm front sway bar? I found that it really cuts down on the front end corner dive in turns and is balanced well with the large rear bar.

Suggested mod - under-car X-brace. A roll cage to go with the seat.

Caution - You are still running the stock S brakes. If you upgrade to a BBK, be aware that there is a recoding of the ABS computer that MINI does for the JCW/Brembo upgrade. If you don't do it, the EDLC will overbrake that inside wheel in turns. This will really mess with the brakes and lap times.

Let us know what you next plans are.

 

Eddie, first of all, I wanna thank you for inspiring and helping me with replies and pms in past days. :D
I know you are one of few real track guy in this forum. :D

For the front sway bar, I was going to do it when I (and my car) start to use tires with higher grip level (tires like Hankook TD semi slick).
For now, I feel my car balances well with front stock sway bar, but may be that's because of I got used to my D-street auto-x setup (spongie front and rock hard rear)
I want to try front sway as you stated, may be next winter. (probably will do engine internal works which is good chance to do something at the bottom)

And good to know that I need to code the brake setup, no minis are doing that in Korea since EDLC wasn't available for them.

And I feel happy that my new 16" wheel setup can take JCW brake. (recently done the test fitting)

Probably will go with JCW front and rear brake setup with same brake pads soon.
But will do the power mods before that.
For now, Stock S brake does the job really well. :D

Thax for the reply again Eddie!

 

mini_aaron - while I would really like to take credit for the replies and pms...I think you are corresponding with another "eddie". Not me. I am super glad you have someone to correspond with on this subject who is knowledgeable.

I am an amateur track person who, like you, has tried to carefully pick out pieces and parts that work really well with my car and my driving style (see my signature). I am also a person who defies convention, hence the large front and rear sway bars. I will say that they work really well with street tires. The combination works well to promote trail braking.

I appreciate your posts. They are a fun exploration into the capabilities of the MINI.

 

I'm glad that my pm box was keeping some of your pm from 2013.
Look at this




And from your reply, I can also see that you got even more experience with modifying/driving your track toy.
I am happy that you know how I was careful with picking and putting the parts for my mini - not just getting ecu tuned and shoot.
Sometimes my Korean friends pisses me off by judging my achievement with result of hardcore parts.
You know it's more like research and planning and.. most importantly.. passion.

It looks like you are really happy with your fron sway,, too bad I've dropped my front sub frame 2-3 times already without changing front sway.
(Last time I just put Superpro stabilizer mount bushing as a salt during the tranny job)

I really like Superpro quality, but proly will go with Hotchkis front since I am on Hotchkis comp rear one.
Thx for the reply!

 

You have skills

Probably took a lap or two warming up those tires, nicely done.

The lightweight short wheel base of the MINI rarely requires larger front bar but to each their own. However, you will achieve better/more predictable turn in with stock front bar and black Powerflex urethane front sway bar bushings. While there throw in a set for the front control arm bushings as well.

 

Ok, am I embarrassed...

I went back to that thread and reread it. We had quite the discussion going. I will say that your skill level has definitely risen. Your "winter" track run was very well done.

 

Thank you! I am glad I have many racers/instructors around me so that I can learn everytime I am on track.

Eventually I gotta try front sway to see how it affects, but for now, I feel okay with Superpro sway bar mount bushings and Control arm bushings with caster increase.

 

Really sorry if I made you embarrassed.
Yes, I do remember that you've helped me and inspired me a lot in this forum.
And after I have moved to Korea in Dec 2014, I met right people and got a right job,
and now I am working as an instructor / test driver for major car company / promotors.
It's such an advantage one of the most successful race driver in Korea is my superior at work.
My company is sole developer for Track data logging system in Korea, and I got bunch of people giving advice with data analysis.
That explains how I could improve my driving in such short period.
But I do know I am still an amatuer, need to push myself for more! :D

 

No argument here; each to their own. I just offer a different perspective from having tried both and come up with an arrangement that fits my preferences.

I had a 20mm RSB and Koni FSDs on an otherwise stock S. What I didn't like was how outside front corner would dive in the turns. I was also uncomfortable with the change in the car's feel when that inside rear wheel left the ground.

I will also say that I am quite the novice here and I may not have the experience to full utilize the type of setup with only the large RSB. So this may just that inexperience talking here.

When I replaced that car I went with the optional sports suspension. That was much more to my liking; less front end dive and better control overall. When I dropped the front to put in the Quaife I took the opportunity to try the larger front bar along with a large rear bar; still the stock sport springs and shocks. For me the car became very much "turn and go". Very flat and neutral into corners. Power-on exit produces understeer as expect and "unwiding" the steering is critical adding power. The thing I lost was the ability to transfer weight and produce much in the way of throttle-off oversteer which I could do with the large RSB only setup. I expect that this car will be less of an autocross car than most because of that. But the thing I was looking for was high speed stability on the track where I have had issues like having another driver slowing when entering the second turn of a set of esse turns, I am on full throttle going through the first turn and have to get off the gas fast to avoid rear ending the other car. With a tail happy car, this could produce another problem that I also want to avoid.

The subject of stiffer vs softer front sway bar was covered by an article in the April issue of the SCCA magazine by Randy Pobst titled "Understeer is your friend". He explains how to use it to help with trail braking and increasing exit speed.

As a counter to all that I have said is a friend of mine whose MINI had 600 lb/in rear springs and a 22mm RSB with a stock S front sway bar and he still has understeer with the way he drove. Now I can't say what his front springs were, but I think I would have had problems with that car.

mini_aarron - I bring this all up to give you a perspective to consider as you decide as to what to do next.

 

Embarrassment is not your doing, it is mine; I should have connect your screen name with the post.

Your connections are a "dream" of every car nut. Go you

My other sport is skiing. A while ago I promised myself that I would work on improving my technique so as I aged my skill will make up for any loss in physical ability. So far it has worked. I drive with others who are getting up in years who have driving stills that will carry them for much more time. You are wise to understand that there is always something more to learn. I sense that you are still young; looking to continuing to learn will keep you young.

 

Thank you so much, and I am learning from you from your post.
Want to give you my respect.

 

Picture on the way back from the Winter test.

I do really like the way car looks, but it's not the end. I was telling me "It's just beginning."

Inspired from Japanese Time Trial Civics(Garage work EG/EK),
I was planning something little more extreme.









So aero and drivetrain mods made the car is just balanced so well with stock power.
I hope my OS drivetrain last long enough until I finish my journey with the Green Turtle.







OZ 16x7 mated with 205 50 16 Dunlop Zii worked more than enough in terms of balanced performance, (especially when you have under 200hp..)
I decided to test something. Do something other miniacs not doing...








Bought only two weels.
Advan RZ 16x8.
Fortunately, 8 inch wheel was 2mm off from the Ohlins shock strut.
I had to guess on my new setup since no one provided such data especially on MINI.









And then, I had to import front tires from Japan, rear tires from US.
Since 225 45 16 Bridgestone RE71R isn't available at Tirerack.








How the Bridgestone sticker for JDM looks like.
Yes, I will enjoy.








And I didn't want to buy new rear wheels because there was too much of risk that something go wrong if I go with that "Staggered" setup.
Since BMW/MINI is monitoring/controlling too many things in terms of vehicle dynamics, I couldn't even guess how DSC/DTC/EDLC/EBD/CBC will act back with my strange setup.







So I borrowed a pair of rear shoes from my fellow amatuer racer.
ADVAN RGII 16x7 for rear.








Front(Right) and Rear(Left).
Will the Green Turtle like the new shoes..?

I was prepared for the fail(car not balanced at track, brake distribution issue, and many other possible troubles).
I will have to sell them off if my mini doesn't like them...








Wheels are in.








Somehow, I am collecting bronze/gold wheels...







And the winter test left many homeworks for the aero update/improvement.
First of all, I changed the wing angle.
iphone played a very important role.







Motive bleeder has been serving well for 4 years I remember.
I am trying STR660 for this season.








From my experience, RBF600 and my Sneed4Speed brake ducting is doing well for a whole season for me, I don't experience any brake feeling change from 3 time trial and 6-7 testing days a year.







I have mentioned that I had some issue with rear subframe tilting issue from track driving, So I wanted to try Rigid Collar from Spoonsports.







I DIYed. Took me 5 hours. :(







Rigid Collar is invented by Spoonsport racing team who were participating an endurance race event with their RL(Legend) race car.
Goal was to achieve "bonding/welding" effect between two different materials in body/subframe compartment.








Working for a main distributor for Spoon sports in Korea, I could get a good deal.







Usually driver can feel the difference right away,
But in my case, I couldn't.
Because I stored my car in my office like that for 2-3 months without driving the car.







In the mean time, my buddy Corey Park, an automotive artist gave me/Green Turtle a fabulous gift.

May be some of you have seen his work from Speed Hunters article or German art gallery website.

http://www.speedhunters.com/2015/12/...rt-showcase-3/

(above : speed hunters "Your Automotive Art" article featuring my buddy)

 

Hey, need a few details, like...
what offset wheels are the 8" wide ones you bought?

I have seen posts of people who have put 8" wide wheels in the back also. I found that with the 225 wide tires I had rubbing issues on the fender liner on the inside of the fender flare. Others have not. I think the difference is spring rates.

A suggestion - to compensate for the narrow tires in the rear, you could add some more camber to the rear wheels. That is adjustable in the stock rear suspension.

 

Also, if you are interested (as a bit of a diversion) I had the opportunity to drive a NASCAR stock last summer and posted this on YouTube:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...hedule-69.html
see post #1703

 

Thx for asking details... Always happy to dig more with fellow miniacs.
For the front, I went with 38mm offset, from the experience from racing at local auto-x with 16x7 38mm mated with 225 45 16 tires for 2014 season.

For the record and more detail, my concern this time was not the tire width, but going with different width and diameter for the front and rear.
I already knew 225 square setup works okay with stock power, but couldn't find any info on 225 front 205 rear and with 4mm taller diameter for the rear with mini.

It seems that no one even tried such hardcore setup on their project for bmw minis.

I gave 1 degree more than last season's setup with rear camber.
I just came back from pre-season test&tune, and there is a bit of rubbing but want to leave it like that since I don't like too much camber at the rear.