When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am changing the transmission oil and want to put the car on jack stands. What is the best way to do this?
Jack up by jack points and then stands under sub frame? Or jack up by subframe and stands under jack points?
I am so perplexed...
For going under the cars I use extremely sturdy homemade ramps built from 2x10s --- work great on the Mini and Camaro wide tires:
Bevel cut with circular saw to look cool and transition smoother, also can add a temp top step to give (5 x 1.5" = 7.5" total extra clearance). My driveway is slopped at the end so this makes the car about level when up on the ramps. Deck screws and some huge lag bolts hold it together. Garage door handles make lugging around easier. One-foot ruler in middle gives scale.
Now I don't need to bother my friend as much - he has a big service station lift at home that handled my fullsize conversion van with ease -- on my wishlist.
Ron
The thing im worried about is cracking the plastic on the side skirts. The JCW body kit wraps underneath the side of the car and I'm afraid the lifting would crack the plastic?
For going under the cars I use extremely sturdy homemade ramps built from 2x10s --- work great on the Mini and Camaro wide tires: Bevel cut with circular saw to look cool and transition smoother, also can add a temp top step to give (5 x 1.5" = 7.5" total extra clearance). My driveway is slopped at the end so this makes the car about level when up on the ramps. Deck screws and some huge lag bolts hold it together. Garage door handles make lugging around easier. One-foot ruler in middle gives scale. Now I don't need to bother my friend as much - he has a big service station lift at home that handled my fullsize conversion van with ease -- on my wishlist. Ron
Those are seriously impressive. You are quite the craftsman! The multilevel is a great idea because most ramps scrape a little bit for being too steep.
Those are seriously impressive. You are quite the craftsman! The multilevel is a great idea because most ramps scrape a little bit for being too steep.
How long did it take to make them???
It took a total of about 1 hour to construct. To make it go fast ... When the plank is cut at bevel the remaining cut off piece can be flipped to serve as the next level up. Or flipped and used on the second ramp. Had some scrap wood, deck screws, and lag bolts already on hand. Then bought enough extra planking to make a decent height. There is plenty of room for me to get under both cars and work comfortably. Usually use a creeper or carpet depending on what I am working on under there. Driving up is a snap, does not even come close to hitting the bumper covers or molding. Pre-drilled pilot holes to avoid cracking.
Ron
I bet those things are heavy lol. Nice job though.
Very True - but not as heavy as if I built with pressure treated wood, ha ha.
Added the garage door handles to help.
Actually, very stable and do not worry they will kick-out or slide when I drive up.
Ron
For going under the cars I use extremely sturdy homemade ramps built from 2x10s --- work great on the Mini and Camaro wide tires:
Bevel cut with circular saw to look cool and transition smoother, also can add a temp top step to give (5 x 1.5" = 7.5" total extra clearance). My driveway is slopped at the end so this makes the car about level when up on the ramps. Deck screws and some huge lag bolts hold it together. Garage door handles make lugging around easier. One-foot ruler in middle gives scale.
Now I don't need to bother my friend as much - he has a big service station lift at home that handled my fullsize conversion van with ease -- on my wishlist.
Ron
Thats a wooden Race Ramp , well done. You are a skilled in the woodwork.
The thing im worried about is cracking the plastic on the side skirts. The JCW body kit wraps underneath the side of the car and I'm afraid the lifting would crack the plastic?
I used Blimey's method until I installed the JCW kit. This did work great, but I now worry about cracking something too, so I jack up the car jack with a floor jack using the spot in between he wheels where there is a hole in a reinforced section of the frame (there are pictures of this location I'm talking about in the other threads). Make sure to use a piece of wood between the frame and jack to prevent damage.
You will be able to place jack stands under both the front and back locations doing this.
If you have a lowered car you may have to drive onto pieces of wood first. I have one of the lowest clearance floor jacks and I still have to do this.
I also have rhino ramps but I do need to use wood to reduce the angle since I'm lowered.
