Hi, I'm looking for someone that might share with me all the specs for the stock turbo in a 2007 Mini Cooper S. I'm looking into buying an upgraded turbocharger and need to know the "air volume flow" vs "boost psi" parameters.

anyone out there with an upgraded turbo please hit me up..

 

This should be a good place for you to start. One of the best intro to turbos discussions I've found on NAM so far.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4005707

 

By any chance do you know the pounds or the psi that the factory waste gate has a a minimum?

 

I'm sorry but I don't think anybody including me understands your question?

The waste gate once closed starts creating boost.

 

I apologize for not making the question clear..

What I'm looking for is: The "minimum psi boost on the factory turbo waste gate".

I'm having some difficulties with my R56. I get the "Reduced Engine Performance" light when I step on it and I was told by the "MINI Dealer in Germany" and now a repair shop in San Antonio that the problem is: "the Turbocharger" it need replacement.

Knowing this issue, I have done some research and prep myself to replace the turbo but I still need some info.

Thanks to "Mini Chris" and this link:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.com...ml#post4005707

I got some info that I need but seems like I need more. I'm in the middle to replace the turbo but this time I'm going to replace it with a bigger one. But I'll like to know what is the minimum allowed boost by the factory waste gate or the "spring psi inside the factory waste gate"

If there someone in this forum that knows about the issue and can help me, I'm willing to give out my number to talk about it since this situation is frustrating.

 

The gate is vacuum actuated and is controlled by the computer to meet the boost levels that are targeted by the load demand.

To verify that the waste gate physically operates you can use a hand held vacuum pump.

Deviation errors are cause by numerous faults. One simple and cheap thing to replace is the diverter valve. The diaphragms tend to fail.

What engine malfunction code is being thrown?

 

Did they even bother to check the diverter valve? A very common failure as cerenkov has stated, we get numerous new and current members with torn rubber diaphragm on the diverter valve causing your boost to vent back into the intake tract therefore losing boost pressure. This would cause a CEL with a few different codes set off, boost deviation, unmetered air etc.

Your best option is to uninstall the DV from the turbo housing yourself (3 hex screws) and check the rubber diaphragm, Mini has updated the DV twice and in the latest version the rubber diaphragm is now built internally rather than externally. Link here. A suggestion, don't pay dealer prices, not when you can save 50% or more for the exact same part. If it wasn't for ECS Tuning I don't think if I would keep my 2007 MCS past my extended warranty.

 

I'll be visiting another tech recommended by my doctor... Good point about the recirculating valve.

I'm going to request to check all the aspects of:

Recirculating valve
Waste gate
Intake manifold Boost controll sensor
Waste gate controller
And the vac lines

I did test something...

I drove the car with the light not present...(without sport button pressed)

1st gear up to 4,000 rpms... Shifted (barely turbo sound)

2nd gear up to 4,000 rpms... Shifted (turbo sound)

3rd gear up to 4,000 roms... Shifted (turbo sound)

4th gear up to 4,000 rpms... Shifted (barely turbo sound)

5th gear up to 4,000 rpms... Shifted (no turbo sound)

At this time i was at 75mph and shifted to 6th gear... Pressed the "sport" button and floored the gas pedal and the light came on!!!

Reduced Engine Performance!!

I did some testing also with and without the "sport" button and:

With sport: no turbo sound
Without: turbo sound in 2nd and 3rd

My car doesn't have an atmosphere blow off valve.. Just factory

 

The turbo don't normally just stop building boost. It's most likely the diverter valve. Another fast way to check something is to route the vac line straight from the vac pump straight to the waste gate. Be extremely careful tho. If nothing is wrong with the turbo it's gonna send boost to the moon with no extra fuel. It's only for a test. And it's only to be used for about 2-3 seconds. If you don't have a boost gauge and your not mechanically inclined, DONT DO IT !!! I damn well I'm gonna regret posting this. Some bodies gotta have something stupid say I just know it.

 

Well I took the car today to someone that took a closer look!!.. The car is pushing out the "intake tube" going from the center of the turbo to the intake box. The part that is at the turbo side kept sliding out even when the clamp got replaced. Another symptom is that the waste gate is very hard to move in and out and when moved from side to side it weagles too much...

The plan still the same...I'm going to replace the turbo and we will see what happens.

 

A flapping or flimsy waste-gate isn't going to cause a CEL or light, something connected to an electrical connector will. A faulty pressure converter which controls the waste-gate actuator via vacuum lines will. If you want to save yourself a serious headache ($$$) don't just start blindly replacing turbos and parts hoping it will fix your issue, you'll spend a small fortune and fix nothing. Have you even felt or looked inside your turbo compressor to check for excessive play? You're also aware that there's a noise maker that makes a whooshing sound right? I don't ever hear my turbo and my Mini is screaming fast!

 

There's a small play on the turbo, radio play and the boost sensor checked out ok and the wastegate sensor too...thanks for the input..

 

Radial end play? A radial end play of 1-2mm is considered normal. Mine has a little bit of both radial end play and a slight axial shaft play, I'm reaching max boost without issue. There is no waste-gate sensor, it's purely mechanical driven by the pressure converter. The pressure converter can not be diagnosed, it either works or it doesn't, when it begins to go bad it makes a kazoo sound shotly after your get a CEL. What is this boost sensor you're talking about?

Also everyone hears the noise maker in 3rd gear more than any other gear, boost is limited in 1st and 2nd gear. That's why when member's put their turbo Mini on a dyno it's done in a 3rd gear, not 1st, 2nd, 4th, 5th and 6th gears.

 

This one

 

This is the wastegate one

 

This is not a sensor, it's the switch (or gate) that is controlled by the ECU and activates the wastegate. It controls the vacuum from the vac pump, via a storage tank, to the turbo diaphragm. You can see the entire system on RealOEM's illustrated parts list, http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/select and get the proper terminology for the various parts.

 

You are right... That's the one I want them to isolate and check them out

 

The second one..

 

Number 12 on the 1st pic and the number 2 on the second one...

 

Yep that's the pressure converter that controls the waste-gate arm via a vacuum valve that pulls the waste-gate shut during boost. If you were to pull the pre-cat O2 sensor out and shine a flashlight down in the hole you can confirm the waste-gate opening and closing as well as look to see is you cat is blocked or clean. A bad pressure converter or deverter valve would cause a CEL on high boost if either were defective, it's not possible to test the pressure converter unless you hear the death kazoo.

There's also two MAP sensors, the one you pictured from under the air cleaner housing and the other one near the dipstick on the end of the plastic intake piping. A bad MAP could cause backfiring with puffs of black smoke.