I noticed today that the cooling fan is running high ALL THE TIME

I was told to check the fuse box in the engine compartment. Low and behold, should there be another fuse in position R4, it is missing..

Also, in the garage the fan ran a long time, engine was not even that hot too.

what....I think there should be 4 green relays, Not this is a CM Base no turbo, can someone check there base. thanks

any help would be appreciated.

 

Ive noticed my fan runs most of the time, even in winter. It runs harder now with the hotter weather and air conditioning. I never thought twice about it, car runs and drives great. Heat and cooling are perfect. I even installed an app on my phone that can read the cars computer in real time and my engine temps never exceed 185-195 degrees which is perfect.

Is your car running ok otherwise?

 

do you have a base CM, if so do you have 4 green relays in the engine bay fuse box, can you check please. thanks

 

I do not, I have an ALL4 S Countryman. Drive up to the dealer and ask them to pop the fusebox on a base CM on their lot.

 

If there was a fuse missing you wouldn't have an issue with the fan staying on. What makes you so certain that a fuse is supposed to be in that slot in the first place? If it's a base model it's likely missing a fuse for a feature it doesn't have.

 

It's marked on the fuse box top as being for the cooling fan it says that supposed to have to relays for the cooling I only have one.

 

A relay is an actuator. Missing a relay will absolutely not leave your cooling fan on. The relay diagram is printed out in mass quantities. It isn't printed specifically for your vehicle as it's configured. If you're so convinced it must be there, take it to the dealer and tell them you're missing a relay. They'll tell you the same thing I did.

I'm not trying to be abrasive here, but...

Additionally, if you keep trying to find something wrong with your car you're only going to frustrate yourself, as well as people on this forum and dealerships and independent shops.

Double posting about your base model not having LED DRL option doesn't fix anything. Tell the dealer you bought it with that option. They'll say you should have printed out a build sheet, and checked all the options on the vehicle window sticker for all the options you selected before taking delivery and not coming back after 600+mi. You may be able to get another vehicle, but at a loss of the cost of delivery and build time.

Taking your vehicle to your "master tech" (who has probably worked on ZERO 2015 Mini Countryman base models) for a clicking noise diagnosis serves no purpose since you have new vehicle warranty. Pay for a transmission, and pay your master tech to install it, and you'll be back at the dealer for the same noise because there's a bulletin regarding the axle noise you described that the dealer will fix for free.

Having someone pull fault codes to search for a problem doesn't do anything. These vehicles are very sensitive, and erroneous faults are normal. Unless you have a symptom that matches a fault, no one will be able to diagnose anything. I saw a 2013 BMW today that had 10 faults in memory and had no issues because they were all erroneous plausibility faults due to the sensitivity of the programming.

 

I can appreciate your time in writing your reply. I will add that our family has had BMW's for many many years. I have a 335 and by wife had a 328, X3 and so on. So we are familiar with German engineering.

But what I do reinforce is that, when you buy a car, even the cheapest in the US, let say a KIA, you expect at least a good percentage of reliability.

I will agree on false fault codes, like Apple computers with their console reports, you can keep going with errors, but they are there as a precursor to POSSIBLE issues of failures in the future. Many of the sensors in MINI and some BMW are made by suppliers who are notorious for producing lesser quality components. I know this for a fact. That is why I believe things will change when BMW changes over the complete MINI line to their platforms. Good MOVE indeed.

In the meantime.. we have a car that is less than 30 days that when driven in outside temps higher than 85 degrees, runs erratic, and has severe hesitations, pops a manifold pressure sensor fault. I can only believe it is want is wrong. But the dealer still fails to replace it.

Then let me ask, what are sensors for, than to diagnose and issue or a possible issue to come. No, we are not trying to find fault Sir, just an answer to a real situation that any consumer would like correct after spending close to 30K for a car.

As a final note, the car is now parked with several electrical issues, and 3 that are consider severe with 1200 miles and 30 days old.

Please excuse my double posting..

 

Keep taking it to the dealer to build up your case for lemon law. I wouldn't want to keep this car.

 

Certified letters going out already...Shame, my mom was so happy, but ended up now without a car and upset.