Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).

2009 MCS Check Engine light and No boost.

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Old Jul 21, 2015 | 01:06 PM
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2009 MCS Check Engine light and No boost.

Check engine light came on this morning and the car was a little sluggish. Took it to Autozone and of course they couldn't pull the code since its a mini. Took it to a near by European specialist and he wouldn't give me the exact code but it was a Boost pressure error showing up. Sure enough I used my app on my phone and I have no boost . I didnt have time to drop it off right then for further test so I drove home.

Any ideas what I can check to maybe whats wrong. Boost pressure sensor? Hose? Am I safe to drive it ? Thanks
 
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Old Jul 21, 2015 | 01:26 PM
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Possible broken "tank air valve 13537543285(TAV) " or "Pressure converter 11657599547(PC)"?? Leaking vacuum lines or bad divert?
 
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Old Jul 21, 2015 | 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by holkki
Possible broken "tank air valve 13537543285(TAV) " or "Pressure converter 11657599547(PC)"?? Leaking vacuum lines or bad divert?

Thanks. Should I just go ahead and replace them both first and see what happens. Any write ups on where they are located. Thanks.

FYI.. I have replaced the thermostat housing and the oil line to the turbo in the past so I am some what familiar with the engine.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2015 | 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by robdec17
Thanks. Should I just go ahead and replace them both first and see what happens. .
My suggestion is to not do anything until you know exactly what codes are being thrown. Pick up a scanner that can read BMW codes first and foremost until you know you're really just guessing and that's expensive.

I've replaced both of those parts holkki mentions but for other reasons and they're a pain to get to (under the intake manifold). While those parts can have fail looking around NAM it's not as common a thing to fail as other things. Boost issues like you describe can range from a loose hose clamp all the way to turbo failure (this was my case in my 09 JCW at ~65k). But you gotta know where to start looking or you'll just be throwing money at it.

Personally I use the 'Carly' app (formerly known as BMWhat) with their dongle (available via Amazon Prime or Carly's website) to read my mini specific codes well worth it in my opinion.

Give us some more info about your car mileage and what not, also was it a check engine light or a "half power light" (AKA "limp mode", on your tach does it display a picture of an engine half shaded in?) post a picture if you'd like.

Good luck! and keep us updated, there are lots of people on NAM that have worked through similar issues successfully (myself included) so hopefully we can help you too
 

Last edited by redparchel; Jul 21, 2015 at 02:57 PM. Reason: words and stuff
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Old Jul 21, 2015 | 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by redparchel
My suggestion is to not do anything until you know exactly what codes are being thrown. Pick up a scanner that can read BMW codes first and foremost until you know you're really just guessing and that's expensive.

I've replaced both of those parts holkki mentions but for other reasons and they're a pain to get to (under the intake manifold). While those parts can have fail looking around NAM it's not as common a thing to fail as other things. Boost issues like you describe can range from a loose hose clamp all the way to turbo failure (this was my case in my 09 JCW at ~65k). But you gotta know where to start looking or you'll just be throwing money at it.

Personally I use the 'Carly' app (formerly known as BMWhat) with their dongle (available via Amazon Prime or Carly's website) to read my mini specific codes well worth it in my opinion.

Give us some more info about your car mileage and what not, also was it a check engine light or a "half power light" (AKA "limp mode", on your tach does it display a picture of an engine half shaded in?) post a picture if you'd like.

Good luck! and keep us updated, there are lots of people on NAM that have worked through similar issues successfully (myself included) so hopefully we can help you too

Thanks for the great advice. Its a 2009 with 62k miles on it and yes it has the picture of the engine half filed in. Its not really in a limp mode it still moves around good just with no bost so its a little slower. If it helps I have been hearing a short squeak type noise when I turned the car off. That started about 2 weeks ago and not all the time.
Will mini charge if I bring it in to read the code? Guess I can call and ask.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2015 | 06:07 PM
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I believe most mini dealerships have a diagnostic charge (but from what I've seen on NAM it varies dealership to dealership and case by case), but give them a call!
 
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Old Jul 22, 2015 | 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by redparchel
My suggestion is to not do anything until you know exactly what codes are being thrown. Pick up a scanner that can read BMW codes first and foremost until you know you're really just guessing and that's expensive.

I've replaced both of those parts holkki mentions but for other reasons and they're a pain to get to (under the intake manifold). While those parts can have fail looking around NAM it's not as common a thing to fail as other things. Boost issues like you describe can range from a loose hose clamp all the way to turbo failure (this was my case in my 09 JCW at ~65k). But you gotta know where to start looking or you'll just be throwing money at it.

Personally I use the 'Carly' app (formerly known as BMWhat) with their dongle (available via Amazon Prime or Carly's website) to read my mini specific codes well worth it in my opinion.

Give us some more info about your car mileage and what not, also was it a check engine light or a "half power light" (AKA "limp mode", on your tach does it display a picture of an engine half shaded in?) post a picture if you'd like.

Good luck! and keep us updated, there are lots of people on NAM that have worked through similar issues successfully (myself included) so hopefully we can help you too

Thanks for the tip on Carly, I installed it on my phone and paid $3.00 for a single use license and got the code pulled. 002885

Motor Control:
Engine / Motor
Fault: charge pressure
Code: 2885
 
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Old Jul 22, 2015 | 11:29 AM
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with your "short squeak type noise when I turned the car off" observation and the 2885 code hulkki might have been on to something with the Pressure converter. I found this thread, 'Buzzing/whirring/whine/moo when powering off' mentioning something kinda similar (and directions for replacing the part)

if that turns out to be your issue then it's not too bad on the scale of loose hose to new turbo!
 
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Old Jul 22, 2015 | 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by redparchel
with your "short squeak type noise when I turned the car off" observation and the 2885 code hulkki might have been on to something with the Pressure converter. I found this thread, 'Buzzing/whirring/whine/moo when powering off' mentioning something kinda similar (and directions for replacing the part)

if that turns out to be your issue then it's not too bad on the scale of loose hose to new turbo!
I was thinking the same thing. Since I now have the code I have been doing a ton of reading and now getting over whelmed Your right about it being anything from a cracked hose to the Turbo. I have seen its either the wastegate, vacuum line, the Turbo , Pressure converter..etc.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2015 | 11:19 AM
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Sorry went out of town with the family to the beach before school starts next week. Finally was able to look at the car this morning. Looks like I have a small valve cover gasket leak that dripped oil on top of the pressure converter. One of the hoses slid right off, cleaned up the oil and replaced the hose with a better fitting one and and its all fixed. Check engine light went away in less then 2 min of driving and I now have boost.

Guess I need to replace the valve cover gasket now. Any write ups on this or it it straight forward.
 
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