R57 :: Cabrio Talk (2009+) Cooper and Cooper S convertible (R57) discussion.

R57 Right front clunk after shock/ireland fixed camber install

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Old May 12, 2015 | 07:23 AM
  #1  
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americo11
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Right front clunk after shock/ireland fixed camber install

Hi Peeps,
I installed Koni FSD's and ireland fixed camber plates last week, which I might add took me some time! along with rotors and new brake pads. I am experiencing a clunk in the right front wheel when going over bumps...on the highway she feels fine and no noise. I checked the shock tower center nut because that was my first thought(maybe even with the spring compressed when out it hadn't been tightened enough) but that is not the case. Both sides are very tight...I then removed the wheel again to check the connections at the shock ie...stabilizer link...but all is tight there as well. Anyone have any recommendations. I have an aftermarket warranty which covers anything in the suspension so I will probably just be taking it to Mini ..but would like to have some knowledge of what might be happenning before handing it over. I was half thinking that because of everything I did via twisting and pulling to get the shocks in and removing the rotors which were rusted to the hubs and needed a good couple of bangs to get off...I thought that may have upset the balance of everything. I somehow thought all would fall into place after the weight of the car settled but that hasn't happened. Any advice would be appreciated..Thanks
 
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Old May 12, 2015 | 07:26 AM
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Helix13mini
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The first step is a nut-and-bolt on the front suspension, meaning you go over every fastener to be sure they are tight. You'll find it. Common culprits: swaybar drop link, strut top nut (the one that holds the strut together).
 
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Old May 12, 2015 | 08:05 AM
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americo11
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Originally Posted by Helix13mini
The first step is a nut-and-bolt on the front suspension, meaning you go over every fastener to be sure they are tight. You'll find it. Common culprits: swaybar drop link, strut top nut (the one that holds the strut together).
That is exactly what my initial thought was so I checked that and of course I'm using a open end ratchet and vise grip which doesn't help with allen key and it only gets so tight! so I just ordered the special tool cut out version(BMW) for this and it will be here overnight. I know when I removed them and compressed the spring to put the nut back on with the shock components it was not screwing down as far as the original one had ....but I assumed it was because the Ireland fixed plates were beefier and took up more dimension on the shaft. So I'll post back when I get the tool and now that the weight is on it ..this should be easy to see if it is the culprit or not.
Thanks for replying...It was my first undertaking with something like this and I checked and double checked everything so I was stumped when it was making the clunk.
 
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Old May 13, 2015 | 07:38 PM
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americo11
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Just wanted to update ...The part I ordered to tighten the shock piston never came and a friend of a friend who works for a garage told me to come in....it was exactly what I thought it was the nut on the piston of the shock was not tight enough ! It was as tight as it could go by hand(using the vise grip rachet and allen key method)....He used an air gun and that got it tightened down in pulses which grabbed without using the allen key which was useless. Relief and now the car has no more clunk and the shocks are as great as I had heard they were. A little perplexed that even though the bentley manual say's not to use an air gun ...it was in the end the only thing that worked.....go figure!
 
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Old May 14, 2015 | 06:46 AM
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Helix13mini
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I'm glad this sorted it out for you. As a point of information, it's better practice not to use an impact gun on that nut: the impact gun can damage the internals of the shock. Next time, do to ol' fashioned hex-n-socket method.
 
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Old May 15, 2015 | 08:02 PM
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americo11
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Eric...I did it the way it's supposed to be done...socket and hex and it would not get any tighter( the nut was at the top of the piston)....when I took it to the garage two guys Also tried it that way because I told them it specifically said not to use the gun, till he had to use the impact because it wasn't moving, that is the only thing that would do it and he did it in short pulses. I really don't know why it was so difficult to turn it down, I had no problem with the rears...but the fronts ...even with the weight of the front end on the springs ..it was a no go! Well hopefully I won't be needing to replace them again while I have the car.
 
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Old May 16, 2015 | 05:03 AM
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Helix13mini
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Originally Posted by americo11
Eric...I did it the way it's supposed to be done...socket and hex and it would not get any tighter( the nut was at the top of the piston)....when I took it to the garage two guys Also tried it that way because I told them it specifically said not to use the gun, till he had to use the impact because it wasn't moving, that is the only thing that would do it and he did it in short pulses. I really don't know why it was so difficult to turn it down, I had no problem with the rears...but the fronts ...even with the weight of the front end on the springs ..it was a no go! Well hopefully I won't be needing to replace them again while I have the car.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2017 | 06:34 PM
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Apologies for bumping this old thread, but I have a similar question. After installing IE camber plates (stock r52 JCW suspension), I now hear a little sorta rubber clunk, but only when I get in the car in the Am - like after its sat a while. If I turn the wheel I hear the noise. While driving I dont hear it.

When I was installing the plates, I didnt know how to tighten the top nut on the shock, so I just used a socket on it and got it tight, but didnt hold the center allen key bolt. I'm assuming this is where the noise is coming from because its all I messed with up front.

Should I loosen the nut and turn the center allen key bolt on the shock at all? Is it supposed to be tightened down before using the nut? Mine may have moved during the install, so I'm not sure if its in the correct spot!

Do I just put a socket around the nut, and an allen key down the middle, and grab the socket with some locking pliers to tighten? Any idea of torque measurement there? Sorry for my ignorance, havent done a lot of shock work before.
 
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