Mechanic while installing clutch pointed out the P/S pump was wet. Can he replace this under warranty or do I need to make the 60+ mile drive to the dealer? Does anyone know how best to handle this?

 

Sometimes the p/s pumps leak. This may be covered by the new 150K/13year warranty
extension on 2002 - 2005 models, but more often, the hoses attached to it weep
and get the pump wet - an easier fix, but not covered afaik.

 

Thanks for the insight. Will look a hoses closely.

 

If your car is covered by the warranty I believe that they will replace the pump and fan whether they are currently inoperative or not, so you should consider that. They will probably then try to sell you new hoses and the labor to install them, and I recommend that you take their offer. I didn't, and a few months later my hoses didn't just weep, they gushed, requiring me to replace them. And it is not an easy job to do yourself unless it coincides with dropping the subframe.

 

Yea, it might just be the P/S lines, check the pump and see if its coming from the pump and not the lines. The coverage is for certain year, pump and fan. Lines are not covered by the extension.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...hose-pics.html

All info here and what to check.




P/S Warrenty

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-problems.html



Thanks and good luck.

 

Replace the crimp style clamps at either end of the PS feed line and top end of the return line with a #10 worm style clamp, clean the mess up, and that usually fixes 8/10 PS leaks. The next common leak in that area is the crimp where the PS return line goes from rubber to steel.

Nick
Detroit Tuned

 

wait are you being sarcastic? what happened was this a recall??? who has a 150k 13 year warranty?

 

I'm about to address this issue myself, both of my supply and return lines are leaking.

I was curious, on the return line where it transitions from hard line to rubber. Is it possible to repair replace the rubber segment? I haven't taken mine apart, but I'm guessing it's clamped together from the rubber/hard line segment

When replacing, would it just be easier to disconnect the two reservoir lines underneath and let them drain into a pan. Then just unbolt the reservoir and pull the whole assembly with lines attached from the top? I was thinking then I would secure the new lines then drop it back in from the top.

 

Never mind I just saw the service bulletin!

Finally going to get this warrantied immediately

 

The leak isn't warrantied, pump failure is.

The leaks are easily remedied by changing the crimp clamps to worm clamps as I stated above, no need to remove the hoses.

If your return line is leaking from the transition from rubber to steel you have to replace the line from the reservoir to the rack.

The clamp fix can be done in under an hour, the return line may take you about 3 hours depending on if you have access to a hoist and proper tools.