R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 Changing a starter

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Old Jan 27, 2015 | 06:04 PM
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Changing a starter

Hello, I've changed starters in other vehicles, just wondering if its just like any other or is is a big a$$ chore. I have a 2003 non turbo manual trans. Thanks
 
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Old Jan 27, 2015 | 06:28 PM
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Does that mean you have an R50 MINI Cooper or an R53 MINI Cooper S?
(neither has a turbo).
Here's a reasonable video:
 
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Old Jan 27, 2015 | 06:51 PM
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I have the R50, thanks for the video. Turbo, super charged, same difference if you don't have it
 
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Old Jan 29, 2015 | 05:52 AM
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Okay, I just received my daughters R50 last night. It doesn't have the normal symptoms of a bad starter with the clicking or motor spinning. It's been almost a year since I drove it, does the clutch or brake need to be pushed in to start? I starting to think it's a switch or bad ignition. I'm gonna break out the volt meter after work to further diagnose. Just wondering if any of you experienced anything like this. It does bump start and runs perfect. Thanks
 
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Old Jan 29, 2015 | 06:39 AM
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Clutch needs to be fully depressed to start.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2015 | 10:30 AM
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It's not often the starters go out in these cars, but when they do it is quite a job to take on. You won't have oil cooler lines to contest with, which makes the job a bit easier, but getting to it takes a combination of extensions, swivels, ups, downs.

If the car has proper charge, and still doesn't start with the clutch pedal fully depressed I would start by making sure the clutch safety switch is in place under the dash. I have seen them fall out and cause a no start condition, but another occurrence I have seen is the ground strap between the starter motor and the starter case will corrode and loose ground, ie, no start.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2015 | 02:48 PM
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I just replaced the starter in my 03 R50. I'll run through real quick what I experienced:

Drove it to work and back just fine. Went to the store and back just fine. 2 hours later, absolutely nothing from the engine. All of the lights work fine, it appeared the immobilizer was receiving signal from the keyfob, but there was nothing from the starter. No clicks, no whir, nothing.

First thing I considered was a new battery: took it in, since I just had it replaced in April, and they said it was partially bad and gave me a brand new battery. Installed that, and still nothing. Called it a night.

Next day I took off work to continue diagnosing, went through checking ground straps, fuses, relays, etc. Protip: working on your car outside when it is single digits outside makes your hands hurt and also makes tools freeze to your lips :\ After several long hours and much pain, I called it a day and came inside to do more research on wiring.

Left it sit for a few days while going to work and school; the next time I worked on it I disassembled the ignition cylinder on the back side of the key lock. Checked the contacts to the relay according to another post on here and reinstalled it, and the car still wouldn't start.

At this point I had time to return to my parents house and pick up a jack and some stands, as well as some more tools/sockets. After over a week of time, I finally had the tools to pull the starter out to inspect it: as nkfry said, the strap from the leads to the case had melted the last time I tried to start the car. I have a picture I may try to upload. Unfortunately, I hadn't caught this failure earlier because the strap is on the bottom side of the starter and isn't visible from the top of the engine.

To replace the starter, I removed the passengers wheel and wheel well, which provided access to the lower bolt. I used a 24" socket extension and 2 3" extension, and this was enough to just barely make it to about the brake rotor and be able to pop it loose. The upper bolt was much harder, but I managed to get it out by finagling through between the exhaust manifold. I found it much easier once the ignition coil was removed, and the coolant expansion tank had been unbolted and pulled forward.

Tl;dr: starter didn't appear bad. Ended up being the starter. $120 later car was running like brand new.

Total time once I figured out the problem? About 2 hours total.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2015 | 07:25 PM
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Got it!! It wasn't the starter, I moved the upper heat shield to test the starter and it worked, so I ended up finding this plug undone. Thank goodness. Thanks for your help
 
Attached Thumbnails Changing a starter-imag2356.jpg   Changing a starter-imag2357.jpg  
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Old Jan 30, 2015 | 04:21 AM
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Awesome, that looks way easier than replacing the starter!
 
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Old Jan 30, 2015 | 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by spyder152
Got it!! It wasn't the starter, I moved the upper heat shield to test the starter and it worked, so I ended up finding this plug undone. Thank goodness. Thanks for your help
Glad to see the clutch safety switch was the culprit, dealt with it firsthand in a handful of customer cars.

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Old Jan 30, 2015 | 02:00 PM
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Nice find. Clutch safely switch , if the starter does go its usually the ground cable that corrodes in between the stater and solenoid.

Starter.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ont-crank.html
 
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