After installing my used access port last week, I wasn't happy with the throttle response issues that popped up.

With 34k on the car, I thought it might be time for some decarboning of the intake valves, but I didn't want to do the old "Seafoam through the vacuum hose" trick and I didn't have the time to do walnut blasting myself. Luckily, I still had some connections in the automotive industry so I borrowed a friends BG Vehicle Injection Apparatus and bought two cans of Seafoam.

While I was was pulling apart the intake tubing I figured it would be a perfect time to remove the noisemaker and install my AEM intake that I picked up recently, so I bought a rubber expansion plug to do the noisemaker delete.

I removed the stock airbox and charge pipes just before the throttle body and started the noisemaker removal first. The expansion plug was too large so I chucked it up in my drill press and used some 120 grit paper to reduce the plug to a size that would fit into the charge pipe with a little bit of lubricant (glass cleaner) and force.




With that project out of the way, it was time to warm up the engine and start the valve cleaning. Keep in mind, I have no idea if the valves needed it or not because I had no way of viewing them. But I had the time and the tools so why not?

I brought the engine up to operating temperature, shut it down, filled the BG atomizer with two cans of Seafoam, and positioned the atomizer nozzle at the throttle body opening. Then I fired up the air compressor and adjusted the inlet pressure to 40psi and started the MINI. I hooked up the access port and watched the A/F ratio, which gave me an idea when the Seafoam ran out.
I didn't keep track of the time, but once it was empty, I shut it down and threw a fan on to cool the engine down while I assembled the AEM intake.

After the engine was cool enough to work on again, I installed the intake system per the provided instructions and buttoned everything back up.

I was hoping to do the charge pipe muffler delete while I was in there but I didn't have the pipe yet, so that project will have to wait until another day.

Now for the results: HUGE difference. The car idles smoother and accelerates smoother. It pulls like mad and the tires break loose at various times that I wouldn't expect, and I still haven't taken it to max RPM yet.
The biggest problem I have now is torque steer.

Next on the list? Charge pipe muffler delete and FMIC.

After that I'll do the catless DP and exhaust.

I know these have all been covered here before, but feel free to ask any questions.

Edit: I did the charge pipe muffler delete this weekend after my 1 foot section of 2" aluminum tubing arrived.
Following the advice in this thread, I was able to bead roll the ends myself after cutting it down to 8 inches.
The hardest part about the whole job was getting the hot side hoses loose from the turbo and the muffler.
Second hardest was the infamous torx screw, but working from under the car made things WAY easier.

I can't say that I've noticed any difference at all, but I haven't driven the car much since the swap.

 

Which point did you set the atomizer? Did you remove tube near item #3 in this picture and do it from there?

 

If that's the tube that attaches directly to the throttle body, then yes.
I had to take it all off anyway to do the noisemaker delete, so it worked out perfect.


I forgot to mention, I didn't let it just idle either. I held it around 2k RPM the entire time, otherwise it wasn't enough intake velocity to draw the Seafoam through the intake manifold and it would just puddle in the throttle body and drip on the garage floor.

 

To handle that torque steer a bit, I'd get a torque arm insert, it's like $60 made by NM. Great product.

 

That is on my list, although I'm hesitant because of the added vibration they transfer into the rest of the car. BTW, you can find the equivalent Energy Suspension product (W92631) for a little less.


But they just limit engine movement. They don't have any bearing on torque steer, or at least they never have on any other vehicle I've owned.


I did hear that some dealerships are loading a 2011 update on older ECUs that helps with the torque steer problem. I just don't know if it will mess with the access port.

 

It definately helps with torque steer. Also helps keep the engine feeling solid. Not so jerky on light acceleration. Keeps the engine from rocking too. People have notice on a full throttle 2-3 shift the engine would rock so much they were unable to put it directly into 3. This is hit and miss mind you, but with the torque arm insert it definately helps. The vibration aspect never came into play for me. No noticeable difference. The car already vibrated enough. I also did the small insert too. That requires a press to push out the old insert though.

In my opinion thats #2 upgrade for the R56. #1 Being the Hotchkis Competition RSB.

 

Rear sway bar is on the list as well. I guess I'm starting with engine mods first, then moving about the rest of the car.