R50/53 R53 ac not blowing cold but full.
R53 ac not blowing cold but full.
We'll well.
I've now had the car almost 3 months and yet another issue.
Back story got the car ac was not working check the system and it was empty found a line was bad replaced it and filled the system and all worked flawless.
Now it stopped blowing cold so instantly checked for freon and all is full. Even pulled all freon out and checked for leaked by pulling a vacuum and refilled the system still nothing.
Fan is kicking on.
Compressor is kicking on.
Blower motor is working.
What am I missing?
Using a snap on ac machine not just hand gauges.
I've now had the car almost 3 months and yet another issue.
Back story got the car ac was not working check the system and it was empty found a line was bad replaced it and filled the system and all worked flawless.
Now it stopped blowing cold so instantly checked for freon and all is full. Even pulled all freon out and checked for leaked by pulling a vacuum and refilled the system still nothing.
Fan is kicking on.
Compressor is kicking on.
Blower motor is working.
What am I missing?
Using a snap on ac machine not just hand gauges.
When was the last time you changed the cabin air filter? Even a partially clogged one will cut the AC efficiency a bunch.
I was thinking of posting a “Don’t complain about AC problems unless you first change the cabin air filter” thread.
I have seen a lot of damage caused by people doing all sorts of things with part store charge kits when the only thing that was wrong was this CAF being dirty. It needs to be changed every year. More often if you smoke or are in dusty climates.
///Rich
I was thinking of posting a “Don’t complain about AC problems unless you first change the cabin air filter” thread.
I have seen a lot of damage caused by people doing all sorts of things with part store charge kits when the only thing that was wrong was this CAF being dirty. It needs to be changed every year. More often if you smoke or are in dusty climates.
///Rich
Last edited by Rich.Wolfson; Jun 3, 2014 at 07:24 AM.
Change the dryer?
If the PSI was zero...bet there was moisture....also refill the oil right?
If all those are done...Expansion valve/Orifice...
Then again..you have the fancy machine!! LOL
If you are sure it is working....have you checked that the blend door is closed...the heater core is always hot...
If the PSI was zero...bet there was moisture....also refill the oil right?
If all those are done...Expansion valve/Orifice...
Then again..you have the fancy machine!! LOL
If you are sure it is working....have you checked that the blend door is closed...the heater core is always hot...
Change the dryer?
If the PSI was zero...bet there was moisture....also refill the oil right?
If all those are done...Expansion valve/Orifice...
Then again..you have the fancy machine!! LOL
If you are sure it is working....have you checked that the blend door is closed...the heater core is always hot...
If the PSI was zero...bet there was moisture....also refill the oil right?
If all those are done...Expansion valve/Orifice...
Then again..you have the fancy machine!! LOL
If you are sure it is working....have you checked that the blend door is closed...the heater core is always hot...
all the controls work as the should on the dash ill have to tare into it to check the actual movement of the unit.
does anyone have picture or a place of a break down so I can see what im getting into.
expansion valve how will that affect anything? or should i ask what does the expansion valve do?
I do not have Auto Climate Control.
the compressor is kicking on and fans seems to be working fine.
I been looking into this and seems like i could be having an issue with two expansion valve or dryer being clogged?
Im at a loss honestly. my other issue is the line to the evaporator isn't even cold.
but the machine is telling me the pressure on the lines are good.
the compressor is kicking on and fans seems to be working fine.
I been looking into this and seems like i could be having an issue with two expansion valve or dryer being clogged?
Im at a loss honestly. my other issue is the line to the evaporator isn't even cold.
but the machine is telling me the pressure on the lines are good.
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Im going to dig into the dash and see if the blend door is still functioning and sealing perfectly.
still doesn't answer my evap line not being cold.
The possibility for which you need to prepare yourself is the conclusion that the compressor has self-destructed. There is still sufficient refrigerant in the lines to satisfy the pressure switch, and the compressor clutch still works so the compressor engages, but although the compressor spins it does not "compress." Dealer quoted me $1,500 to repair, and that did not appear to include receiver/dryer or expansion valve.
The possibility for which you need to prepare yourself is the conclusion that the compressor has self-destructed. There is still sufficient refrigerant in the lines to satisfy the pressure switch, and the compressor clutch still works so the compressor engages, but although the compressor spins it does not "compress." Dealer quoted me $1,500 to repair, and that did not appear to include receiver/dryer or expansion valve.
But then why would this still give me decent pressure in the lines?
My thoughts....
Moisture can destroy a pump....and you had zero psi...fixed a line...and did not change the dryer...kudous to you for getting a full vacume on the system...the dryer acts as a filter and as ac moisture remover....it is considered good practice to replace it anytime the system is opened...
Bet the oil if you opened it up looks like graphite sludge from the compressor self destructing.... Just a guess... Shame sounds like you did most stuff better than most...check around...there are various places selling compressors and kits with dryers and valves.... Just be sure to flush the system clean if the oil is contaminated...or the new pump will fail too.
One thought....I don't think any of us responding is a pro ..might be with an hour in a shop to be sure....
Moisture can destroy a pump....and you had zero psi...fixed a line...and did not change the dryer...kudous to you for getting a full vacume on the system...the dryer acts as a filter and as ac moisture remover....it is considered good practice to replace it anytime the system is opened...
Bet the oil if you opened it up looks like graphite sludge from the compressor self destructing.... Just a guess... Shame sounds like you did most stuff better than most...check around...there are various places selling compressors and kits with dryers and valves.... Just be sure to flush the system clean if the oil is contaminated...or the new pump will fail too.
One thought....I don't think any of us responding is a pro ..might be with an hour in a shop to be sure....
ok new findings.
HIGH PRESSURE lower condensor line that runs to the expansion valve had a small hole rubbed in it next to the strut tower on the drivers side.
problem is the thing showed full and pressure was holding but it was so small the pressure did show but wasn't making it to the evap.
new hose on order.
Ill be sure to check the system and oil prior.
HIGH PRESSURE lower condensor line that runs to the expansion valve had a small hole rubbed in it next to the strut tower on the drivers side.
problem is the thing showed full and pressure was holding but it was so small the pressure did show but wasn't making it to the evap.
new hose on order.
Ill be sure to check the system and oil prior.
alright guys my issue is finally fixed.
My issue was the line I installed last time was slightly bent when installed and after driving for the last month it rubbed against the motor mount and rubbed a hole in it.
still doesn't answer any of my answers or my issues above guess the leak we so small at first didn't detect at first but still affecting cooling?
My issue was the line I installed last time was slightly bent when installed and after driving for the last month it rubbed against the motor mount and rubbed a hole in it.
still doesn't answer any of my answers or my issues above guess the leak we so small at first didn't detect at first but still affecting cooling?
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