Some of you may have read the thread where my friend's R56 needs the head pulled. I'm 95% of the way there, but have run into a couple snags.

How do I remove this sensor (CPS I believe)? I've removed the bolt, but it just twists a few degrees and I can't seem to pull it out. I need it out to gain access to the torx headbolt next to it.




Secondly, do I need to remove the units attached to the end of the cams shown by red arrows in the picture below? I assume it's part of the VANOS system, but didn't see any instructions to remove it in the VANOS removal section of the Bentley manual. That said, I feel like I probably need to remove it to take the head to a machine shop. If so, any idea where in the Bentley manual to find the procedure?



Last couple questions.

Does this kit include everything I need to replace when reinstalling the head? I doubt it includes the banjo bolts and gaskets for the turbo, etc. I'd love it if there was a list of items I need to purchase to replace.

http://www.minimotors.com/Classic_Mi...FZRcfgodnkEAHg


Lastly, anyone have a good source for a refurbished head? Just to save time rather than sending this one to a machine shop. Pretty sure one or more of the exhaust valves in cylinder one need to be replaced.

 

The DI system should be re-installed before any other assembly work is done. A dealer has the tools and needs the head and DI injectors to do the work. Talk to the SA BEFORE starting the re-assembly, unless you have the specified tools. Best of luck ---

 

Thank you for the reply.

What is the DI system? I didn't even see anything in the Bentley regarding having to remove the injectors or fuel rail. I understand they are high pressure injectors, which I haven't dealt with before. Can you give me a little more info on what I need to do regarding this or what to search?

One other thing... after removing the VANOS gears I allowed the timing chain to settle in the cavity. I've then read somewhere on here to "not drop the chain". Is this an issue? I just assumed once I pull the chain back up it will hook itself back onto the crankshaft sprockets, no?

 

FWIW, I just did an N14 engine block swap (long story) that included transferring all the accessories from old to new block. DI injectors and fuel rail included.

There is some mention in Bentley about removing injectors and recommendation to replace all the gaskets. Removal procedure is simple and intuitive: unplug the injectors from the harness, unbolt the rail, pull both out. Supposedly, some may stick causing grief, but all 4 of mine came out together with the rail.

The gaskets' kit is expensive (~$60 * 4) and I didn't have it on hand when I re-installed the injectors with the 56K mile old seals. I also reused the old HPFP-to-DI rail pipe. Everything ran without any leaks afterwards.

No comment on VANOS, but I will taking apart the old block the next weekend and don't mind messing it up (it will go back as core). Feel free to request any experiments, if it would help with your job.

YMMV,
a

 

DI = Direct Injection --- another form of Fuel Injection. Bentley has a couple pages on removal / installation. Again, talk to the machine shop you plan to use. See if they want the head stripped of all attachments. Mine went to Thumper, and he said strip it. You can always remove only what's necessary, just to get the head off. If machine shop work isn't req'd, but it back together without removing everything.

Another hint --- I found the fuel line from tank to HPFP was not easy to disconnect, another special tool, so I removed the HPFP and put it in a Zip-lok bag, taped closed to minimize dirt. It kept nicely out of the way during head / engine removal.

Afadeev is correct about kit pricing. His choice to re-use gaskets / seals / and other Bentley-suggested replacement parts, is risky. I chose to replace them. The injector seal kits are also included in the previously mentioned gasket set, a much better price than individual gaskets.

I wouldn't worry about the timing chain. I let mine fall between the guides, just to keep it out of the way. There is solid material directly under the chain, so it should be easy enough to re-engage it, if needed. Once the head is off, the crank can be turned manually while engaging the chain.

One last item --- I'm working on my 1st Mini. Also my 1st experience with FI, turbos, & FWD. I bought the car used, about 3 ½ years ago, to mod. Any info from me is from experience on my car. Here's a link to my build journal, which was updated this week. https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...a-stuff-2.html

 

Pulled it off today. One exhaust valve in cylinder 1 is missing a chunk of metal, found the problem! I'm located in Los Angeles, and will probably be taking it to a place called Portflow tomorrow. The fuel rail is still in place, really hoping the work can be done with it on, but we'll see.

Likely will simply have them replace the valve, do any standard pressure testing, and maybe replace the valve seals. We'll see what they recommend.
That's what we did. Currently just have it hanging out in the engine bay, I see no reason why I need to bother dealing with that connector.
Will definitely be replacing all o-rings/gaskets/seals. You really think the dealer is the best place for buying these items? I always used pelican parts or rmeuropean for my M3.
That's what I thought, thanks.
Thanks for the link!

 

Some pictures:
Are the coolant passages supposed to be this color?


In all it's glory:


Carbon coated pistons (haven't checked the cylinder walls yet), some coolant leaked onto them:


And finally, the source of 0 compression:

 

I hear you are looking for an extra head? Ill have one in a week or so if you are interested.

 

Why do Mini's always have a piece of the valve broken in the same spots nearest to the plug?

 

ttp://www.bmminiparts.com/Home.aspx

I've found their prices reasonable especially compared to the stealers and their shipping cost is very good also.

 

Thanks, but I think we are going to rebuild this one.

 

Thanks for the link.

 

If this is truly the case it would likely because the cylinder gas flow on every mini is going to be nearly identical, so if the electrode of the spark plug is the cause, and assuming it breaks during ignition, it will probably travel to a similar place each time.

 

I chose the dealer for parts mainly because I'm not aware of any other LOCAL sources. Dealer parts pricing is a huge variable, and I'm a good enough customer so I'm getting a "better" price. I'm leary of online sources unless there's no other option --- "a personal problem". I don't remember the color of my coolant passage.

There's no good reason to not use the parts source of your choice.

 

Dealer is just a reseller, with mark-up.
Various dealers mark-up by various amounts, from 10% to 100+%. Thus it pays to call around.
The few times I had to comparison shop, Sewell MINI in TX was the cheapest by far: http://mini.sewellparts.com/

Buying out of state means you pay for shipping, but save on sales taxes. Depending on what exactly you are buying on how bulky it is, it is usually a wash after around $200.

Some parts come from BMW supply chain, some from Worldpac. The latter category are usually generic OEM items (bolts, hoses, filters, suspension components, etc).
For the latter category, someone on Amazon usually has the best price.

YMMV,
a

 

Interior of the head should be bright metal. Your head cooling passages look like they were exposed to very hard tap water - for a long time. There is evidence of rust in the block cooling passage as well. Remove the water in the bores ASAP! I expect the head will need to be pickled in some mild acid to remove what appears to be calcium stain.

 

Don't worry, water is removed. It's not my car, I'll have to ask my friend if he was using regular water instead of distilled...