Just looking for feedback from anyone else that has purchased ECS Geomet rotors as well as offering information for anyone else looking to replace their rotors.


I purchased the cross-drilled/slotted Geomet rotors for my 2009 JCW from ECS and had them installed at a local brake shop along with EBC Redstuff pads May 10, 2013. I purchased the rotors purely for appearance as this car is a commuter vehicle only that is never raced, tracked, etc and is stored in winter. A couple days ago I noticed the brakes pulsating when stopping so I had the brake shop check things out today. It turns out the ECS rotors had started to warp after only 4800 miles. The shop said I was lucky I noticed the issue so early, which allowed the rotors to be resurfaced rather than replaced at this point. When I called ECS to inquire about what they could/would do they indicated the rotors are a wearable item and they only have a 30 day warranty. They did offer to give me a small discount if I wanted to purchase another set.

Has anyone else purchased ECS rotors and had any issues that may indicate they are an inferior product or have issues, or did I just get a bad set? ECS has great prices and has had good customer service on other items I purchased from them so I hope this is an isolated incident. I'm sure someone from ECS will chime in here and add to the discussion.

 

i think im rocking some ECS cross drilled / slotted rotors on my 06 jcw. guess ive only had them for a couple thousand miles at most (along with EBC red stuff pads) and so far mine are fine....

although a quick google search did reveal this interesting article....

http://www.examiner.com/article/ther...d-brake-rotors

 

Thank you for the link to the article, which does have some interesting information. I have not heard of the author but he should definitely do more research before writing an article full of absolutes that are not entirely true.

As many of the replies indicate rotors absolutely can warp (lateral runout) as a result of several possible issues, which can sometimes be remedied by resurfacing.

Also, most people do not have the ability to release pressure from the brakes and sit as the author recommends, especially if they are stopped at anything other than a perfectly flat spot. This would also be dangerous for several reasons.

Hopefully others will respond to this thread which will provide valuable information to anyone contemplating rotor replacement or searching for rotor issue information.

 

Nice article, and ever better reference to the StopTech reading material:
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths

I have, in the past, "warped" track rotors by achieving uneven deposit of brake pad material on their surface. A few times the problem would
subside after swapping track brake pads to another (street) set that slowly wore off the old brake deposits. One time things got so bad that I threw away front rotors and installed new ones.

But all this was on heavier BMWs, never a problem on a MINI.
On the other hand, I've read far too many negative reports about EBC brake pads and am staying clear of them.

An ever more applicable article is the one that describes the proper brake pad "bed in" procedure:
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...-system-bed-in

What process did you follow to "bed in" your EBC Reds?

ECS Geomet rotors have had some positive feedback from the BMW community, so I doubt they are all defective. However, it's possible you got a bad batch, especially if they started vibrating from day 1. Otherwise, my money is on improperly "bed in" pads.

HTH,
a

 

The caveat in the StopTech article is, "With one qualifier, presuming that the hub and wheel flange are flat and in good condition and that the wheel bolts or hat mounting hardware is in good condition, installed correctly and tightened uniformly and in the correct order to the recommended torque specification, in more than 40 years of professional racing, including the Shelby/Ford GT 40s – one of the most intense brake development program in history - I have never seen a warped brake disc."

The rest of us live in the real world where virtually ALL tire shops torque the snot out of lug bolts, and worse, torque one or more bolts way outside the recommended range. Over tightening and non-uniform torquing WILL cause a disc to warp. And permanently. I say this based on my own experience with tire shops performing the above abuse on my cars.

My money is that the above is exactly what happened to the OP. With a single data point is does not seem worthwhile to speculate if the ECS rotors are particularly sensitive to this form of abuse.

Recommendation to the OP: Buy a good quality torque wrench and learn how to use it. And use it, after you have tire shops install wheels. Or find competent and reliable shop to do the same for you.

 

sorta glad i paid out the nose to have mini install them and a guy i know do the break in. had no idea this many problems could be caused by something seemingly so simple

 

If those rotor did warp rather than have some pad build up on them, turning them will make them even more likely to warp again.

My advice is rather than have them turned, go through the pad bedding process again. It may clean the pad deposits off.

 

maybe cars are different, but i have warped rotors on my motorcycle several times ... changing to aftermarket floating rotors seems to have fixed it

to be fair, it always happened on the racetrack, twice at willow springs (long track) and once at laguna seca

the bike was a bmw k75s with stock rotors/calipers and SBS high friction pads

 

I have an R53 and a similar experience for me with Geomet. I sent the original rear rotors back because they were noticeably warped. ECS sent me new ones in exchange for the defective ones. They admitted that they were warped. The new ones were not noticeably warped until I installed and I hear a squeak as I'm driving down the road and when I lay into the brakes, the car shakes. Very annoying. I regret my purchase. Geomet quality standards are obviously low. Geomet = garbage

 

BTW, mine are also cross drilled and slotted. Any recommendations for good cross drilled and slotted rotors are much appreciated.

 

With EBC reds 😁

 

I followed the exact process outlined on the literature received with the pads...straight, paved country road....accelerate to 50 then quickly brake to 10 mph...repeat 5 times...drive for several miles without stopping to let components cool.


Your speculation may be correct. When I recently removed my wheels to rotate and clean them I could barely break the lugs loose with a breaker bar. I know the torque spec is 103 ft-lb and I'm certain the lugs were tighter than that. Glad I caught this not too long after the brake work had been done again. I never thought about having to check wheel lug torque after having work done but will check it from now on. I've had my torque wrench for about 20 years but It is quite accurate and does the job I need it to.


I did attempt to go through the bed-in process again before taking the car back to the brake shop but it didn't resolve the issue.


At this point the rotors have been functioning properly since being resurfaced a couple thousand miles ago. I followed the same bed-in procedure I did the first time so time will tell if this is a rotor issue or if it was an issue of improper torque.


Thanks again to all replies on this thread...

 

Hopefully someone will provide feedback on this question. I imagine the factory product is quite good but the price is quite excessive compared to other options available.

 

I just got some feedback from ECS. They have a suspicion it could be an ebrake issue. Due to the the cable being rusted or corroded, the rear brakes drag causing the rotors to warp. I will look into replacing the ebrake, although it engages fine. I'll let you know if I can come up with anything.

 

I'll toss my thoughts in on the issue from the tech side, knowing nothing of the specific brand however.

I believe the quote in question is here:

However, under heavier braking, such as an emergency stop or slowing down from a highway exit, the brakes become much hotter, and that material can actually 'cook' to the brake rotors.

The best way to aid in this 'cooking' process is to keep the pads in constant pressurized contact with the rotors... by remaining firmly on the brakes after the vehicle has come to a complete stop.

I think it would have been better worded: the best way to avoid this baking process is to not keep your foot firmly planted on pedal....

I'm going to tell you that from 20yrs in the business these statements are completely correct. I'd say well over 90% of all "warped brake" problems stem from poor and ingrained driving habits. Oh, I know nobody wants to hear that, I get it. And yes there are probably some who have driven longer than my 35+ years...but that doesn't make for good habits.

Every kit I've sold for nearly 20yrs for a vehicle with and automatic transmission in it comes with a similar warning:

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION ALERT If your vehicle has an automatic transmission your new brake system may be subject to pad transfer and rotor ‘hot spotting’. This is due to continuously applied pressure after stopping where the pads are crystallized to the rotor surface. Creep your car or remove your foot from the brake pedal when possible! Baking pad material to the rotor will lead to a greater chance of rotor pulsation.

Do I believe in this? Do I practice what I preach?? I have a 2004 Nissan Titan as a daily driver. It has 127k on it now. Years of race car towing. Daily driver commuter miles as well making up probably 60-70% of the total. Today: same pads and rotors from the date of delivery. Browse the Titan forums and you can read the endless pile of "bad brakes" and "replaced at 15K" stories.

The industry as a whole has no real interest in changing how you drive (brake) of course. They look to sell new pads and rotors on a regular basis. It does not have to be that way unless you make it so.

 

I had some ECS slotted/drilled rotors on my Toyota Tundra - total junk. You get what you pay for - they are cheap in more ways than one.