R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 Sonar ebay projector drl headlights

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Old Dec 11, 2013 | 05:44 AM
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Sonar ebay projector drl headlights

Okay so to preface this, there is to be no trash talking of aftermarket HID kits, their legality, no auto leveling features, etc. Go hijack someone else's thread.

So I purchased the Sonar projector headlights and the included 6k HID kit. Attached are the photos of the cut off lines. Very sharp with no modification! And I am a previous user of S-2000 retrofitted projectors.

Everything is wired through relays but the drivers side headlight turns off after about 30 seconds of cold driving. I know it's the computer, but after about 30 minutes of driving, I turned them off then back on again and they both stayed on? So it won't pass the cold test, but it will pass the hot test? Any advice it gladly appreciated!
 
Attached Thumbnails Sonar ebay projector drl headlights-image-795377064.jpg   Sonar ebay projector drl headlights-image-1208454070.jpg   Sonar ebay projector drl headlights-image-948479502.jpg  
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Old Dec 11, 2013 | 05:45 AM
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Sorry.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2013 | 06:26 AM
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A lot of glare above the cut off
 
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Old Dec 11, 2013 | 07:46 AM
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I know you say you know it's in the computer, but I'm actually leaning toward ballast or relay, first thing I'd do it's swap those items from one side to the other (one at a time of course) to see if it moves your problem or possibly causes a loose ground to make a better connection.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2013 | 08:07 AM
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Check out the following thread. It's not Mini specific, but neither are HID lights. The most HID info I've found in one place. The section on relay harness might help you.

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/g...ered-here.html
 
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Old Dec 11, 2013 | 08:36 AM
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I was literally looking at this sen on the web since I have regular halogens right now, the look sweet, I'm sorry that I have no help to offer but it will be a lot of help to see if you can fix the problem. Good luck, looks great
 
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 04:22 AM
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Originally Posted by BlwnAway
I know you say you know it's in the computer, but I'm actually leaning toward ballast or relay, first thing I'd do it's swap those items from one side to the other (one at a time of course) to see if it moves your problem or possibly causes a loose ground to make a better connection.
+1 to you my friend! Swapped the ballast from the driver's side to the passenger side and now they both work. I also sent the seller a request for a new ballast, hopefully I will receive that anyways haha. Now to fix the flickering and wiring the halos, figure I may as well. Thank you.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 05:24 AM
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Cool, always remember, use "at least as much ground as you are using power", and it doesn't hurt to be a little over grounded.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 09:17 AM
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looks awsome, your convinsing me to get some as well
 
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Saltysalt
looks awsome, your convinsing me to get some as well
Yeah, I mean I've been eyeing these up for a while now, decided to pull the trigger. That's why I'm posting my results because without concrete evidence, I don't think many people will buy them. The sad fact is that the Chinese are PRETTY GOOD at manufacturing these days and the quality of the lights is very good. I am especially surprised at the performance of the "German" projector lens. As a side note, had some flickering issues. Found on another forum 2200uF / 40v capacitor would silence that. Installed it across the Coil + (85) & Coil - (86) of my relay, silenced that noise.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 11:57 AM
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was your car HID before? or halogens? cause right now im suffering with halogens
 
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 12:24 PM
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Originally Halogen. I'm surprised BMW released a car with that BAD of headlights. BMW produces some of the cleanest, best performing headlights around.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 05:01 PM
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I want to clarify for anyone who is wiring HIDs, as I incorrectly stated the wiring for the capacitor. The capacitor runs parallel from the 30 (+) output to the 85 (-) wire. This also prevents a bulb out warning.
 
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