Bought an '07 Mini with a bad engine. The previous owner had changed the oil and forgot to screw the oil filter housing cover back on.

My intentions are to put a low mileage used engine in this car.

I am going to remove the engine from the front/top. primarily because I want to leave the suspension intact so that I can push the car out of the garage while working on the engine.

I started the "swap" today by getting the car into the garage. I couldn't push it on my own so I used the winch from my ATV in thru the back door of the garage. Worked like a charm:





Steve H.

 

Top of cylinder head with cam cover removed. Melted plastic from the cover is in the center of the head.


Started removing parts. Bumper cover first.

 

Removed the front bumper:


Lowered condenser and removed other parts before removing front support:

 

Next removed front radiator support with headlights, radiator, and fan module:



Front end pieces removed:


That's it for today.
Steve H.

 

Awesome first day progress. Looks like you won't have any problems pulling off the swap

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using NAMotoring

 

Yes, pls keep posting. Awesome thread, haven't seen one quite like it on NAM. BTW, what manual are you using?

 

AZdsrt - Thx. I will keep posting with my progress. I'm not using a manual... just going by experience (have done lots of engine swaps and repair). Hoping that will get me through this. I might have to ask a few questions here on NAM, though.

Steve H.

 

There isn't really much funny business with these cars if you're just directly swapping the motor. Have you found a replacement motor? What year was it out of? A few of the bolts are torque to yield. A Bentley would be a huge help when it comes time to looking up torque specs when you're putting everything back together.

 

I am just approaching it like most engine removals - unbolt or disconnect everything that connects engine to chassis. And look for the simplest way to remove an assembly.

I have not found a specific engine yet. There are several online that range from $2400 (80k miles) to $3000 (40k miles). They are from '08 to '10 base models. I will call around next week to get something ordered.

A Bentley would be great. That would (help) clarify a few things. I would figure the TTY bolts are possibly for engine/trans mount and bellhousing.

I'm hung up right now on the LH CV axle. It's not wanting to pull from the trans. I have to get the slidehammer out....

Hopefully today this will be out.

Steve H.

 

More progress from today...

Disconnect exhaust and remove front hangers:


Remove ball joint to control arm nuts:


Unbolt A/C compressor and remove serpentine belt:


Steve H.

 

Engine removal cont'd.

Remove hoses, shift cable, starter & alternator wiring:


Also removed CV axles at this point. Driver's side was stuck so I just removed the inner boot clamp and pulled the axle from the tulip.

Connect engine hoist:


Remove engine mount:

 

Engine removal cont'd...

Unbolted transmission mount. Removed mount bracket to strut tower.


Lifted engine out and to the front. Tight fit to clear between the frmae rails and the A/C tubing. Also had to lift over the A/C compressor and the condenser.


Engine removed:


Engine with trans out and on the floor.


Done for today. I will be calling around for a used engine next week.
Steve H.

 

There's really no way to rebuild that one? Seems like for less than 2k, you can make that one all pumped up, but I could be totally wrong.

 

The previous owner ran it without oil for long enough to melt the valve cover. There was minimal coolant in it. I would think that all of the bearing surfaces are gone and the block/head surfaces probably warped. All of that aluminum does not do well with the heat.

These newer series (R56?) engines are harder to find... esp individual parts like blocks, cranks, heads. That get expensive to piece together for a rebuild.


I feel more confident with just putting a lower mileage used motor it in. I might replace the timing, thermostat, water pump on the replacement engine. Depends on what I find.

Steve H.

 

You mentioned the search for a used engine is next. Now that you have it out, hope you document replacing parts on the 'new' engine. Good thread, keep it up.

 

Very cool thread.

How do you like the lift you have? Does it allow you to do most all of the work on the car both front and back? Does it get in the way with it being under the car? Is the car really stable on the lift?

What brand is it?

 

k_h_d - I love the lift. I have had it for 3 years and it has been a back saver/time saver. No more jack stands....

This is the model/supplier:
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/At...e-Scissor-Lift

$1500 - well worth the money.

Be aware that it weighs 1000+lbs - it is shipped on a huge pallet in a semi and you need the proper equipment to receive and unload it. It is somewhat easy to move around on concrete.

I have found that for 90% of repairs it is helpful. Under the center of the car has limited access. But for the most part vehicles can be positioned so there is full access to the underside of the engine bay (or for the rear if you back the car in).

It is very stable. I have lifted 6k pound trucks (cautiously) and it works. I don't put HUGE amounts of side pressure on anything, and am careful when putting a huge prybar on a fastener so that I don't pull/push the car off the lift. Otherwise it is great. I have at times strapped the car down to the lift if it is really overhanging and I remove an engine, etc.

Very versatile, esp when garage space is limited. I can use it for my lawn mower, ATV, unloading, etc.

Any other questions feel free to ask.

Steve H.

 

More photos from today.



Removed starter to gain access to torque converter nuts:


Removed bellhousing bolts - separated engine and transmission:


Photo of the overheated/MELTED oil filter:


That's it for today.
Steve H.

 

Great pics and writeups. Your my kind of guy. Wish I was there to help.
It looks like an automatic tranny looking at the fly wheel- no clutch. I see now, after I re-read your postings, that you mentioned a "Torque Converter"- excuse me- . I love this "Edit" function on the NAM forum-

Are you going to do a walnut shell blasting/cleaning of the intake valves stems/plenums on the replacement motor? It would be the easy time to get-er' done- But I'm not sure if its needed. I don't see a turbo for an "S" model.

You remind me of "Ed" on the "Wheeler Dealer" TV show from England on Velocity Channel on Wednesday nights. He gets the job done and will tackle anything. The big plus on that show is the refreshing, complete lack of arguing and fussing between the two guys.

Please continue the great coverage-- and thanks,

 

Any updates? Been pretty quiet in here..

 

I'd buy that trashed block from you if you were closer... Bummer.

 

Still searching and calling around for a suitable replacement engine. Trying to find the least mileage engine for under $2800 or so shipped. Hopefully this week.

I'm not sure this head/block would be good for anything other than a boat anchor. I am thinking this motor was hot enough to distort most everything aluminum. Maybe when I have time I will pull it apart and check the bores, bearings, etc. Don't have the time right now.

Steve H.

 

I would really be surprised if you were able to dismantle the internals of the engine, you should expect everything melted together.

 

It will be interesting to see what will come apart, and the condition of internals.

I have already been challenged - the engine was a bear to turn over so that I could remove the torque converter nuts. A long breaker bar on the crank bolt socket got it to turn. I am glad that it did turn over.

I am curious about the compression - I might bolt the starter back on and try to check it. Also have to check the timing. It is missing the upper guide (broken).

Steve

 

Very cool project! I envy the space and tooling!

Since you have the front end apart, and no engine yet, what are the sway bar and lower control arm bushings and ball joints looking like?

Car surgery! :D