New to the mini world coming from the audi/vw world. I had aftermarket diverter on my a4 am I correct in reading there is a diverter stock as well as a choice to use a BOV? I'm use to diverter and bov being the same part no separate

 

Mini's come stock with a diverter/ recirculator valve......this simply vents the excess boost back into the air system.

there is the ability to replace this unit with a traditional blow off valve, this just dumps the excess boost into the atmosphere.


you can use either one or the other.....

 

Yea I understand the difference in bov/div I just keep seeing different posts on people replacing stock dv with blow offs but not replacing the recirc valve I mihht be mis reading.

I personally would like to run a dv rather then vent boost to atmos especially running stock set up any suggestions on parts?

Thanks for the help

 

The traditional BOV will cause a CEL because of it venting excess to the atmosphere. Depending on the year/engine type, WayMotorWorks.com has some solutions to avoid the CEL with a recirc diverter. Could be wrong.

 

Ok ok ok there seem to be some misunderstandings in terminology.

Diverter valve, in most references is interchangeable with re-circulation valve. Those are the same thing. A factory installed valve that diverts the air back into the intake tract.

I think the mis-communication is in placement. On some cars the re-circ. valve is on a charge pipe the same way a traditional blow off valve is. In the case of the MINI, it is directly attached to the turbo itself. It is also computer controlled.

Venting air to the atmosphere will NOT product a CEL. Installing an after-marker blow off valve on a charge pipe and doing nothing with the computer controlled diverter valve system will.

Our cars do not monitor the air the way older recirc. style systems did/do, so you will not produce adverse effects or CEL's by not recirculating the air, like how the old Gen2 MR2's would run like absolute crap when you use a BOV rather than a Recirc.



Long and short of it, if you want to keep the computer happy by leaving the computer controlled unit in place but be nicer to your engine performance by not shooting a blast of hot air into the intake every time you get out of boost, Forge Motorsport makes a spacer that lets the stock valve work normally, but redirects the air to the atmosphere. It's cheap compared to any other method. Depending on how you feel about the blow off sound, you may or may not like it. It's loud.

 

I appreciate the breakdown as I said I was used to my forge spillter on my a4 50% recirc 50% atmos.

I enjoy the sound and was hoping it would have a decent sound. So can I run the wmw dv with the forge spacer?

 

Yes sir. The wmw is an upgraded versoin of the stock valve

 

if you want the swoosh sound just get a intake.

 

$60-70 for a spacer that does the noise and keeps hot air from blasitng back into tue intake..... or $300+ for an intake that loses low end torque just for noise. Solid advice dude...

 

Thanks for the help this is a great forum tons of info. I was reading the jcw intake is actually worth it as well?

 

Sorry to be a pain is this the psrt you are talking about ? http://www.waymotorworks.com/forge-b...r-s-turbo.html

 

Yes that's the spacer I have. I found it cheaper somewhere else though, can't remember where. Most likely another companies ebay store. I'll check when I get home tonight.

I've read that some people claim they feel a difference without the loss of low end torque with the JCW intake, but you won't get a sound difference if sound is what you're going for.

 

I have the JCW stage 1 intake. No more sound but a much larger, dry filter than the stock one.

 

Smoking deal I stumbled on:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/181062537077?lpid=82

 

does anyone know the purpose of using a recirculating valve over a BOV?

is is strictly to keep noise down? increase efficiency? i doubt it aids in performance any.

anyone know the reason?

 

noise. typical drivers don't want to hear strange engine noises that their Camry didn't have. It blows a burst of hot air back into the COLD side of the system where you don't want hot air, it's definitely NOT a performance reason lol.

 

That is a serious deal ordered my wmw dv yesterday great customer service over there I might add and going to orsrr this today

 

Also the version already on the N18 engines... Just call Way.

 

Any idea if this would fit a GP2?

 

GP2 has a different turbo, but I'm fairly sure the diverter valve setup attaches the same way, so it should. Don't quote me on that, but I'm fairly sure.

 

Happen to have a write up or know of one on the wmw dv install?

 

the instructions for that spacer are basically the same. There are 3 hex head bolts holding the stock one in. you unhook the electrical connector and take out the 3 bolts then reverse that process. it's the same part as stock other than an upgraded diaphragm inside. the actual install is the same as stock.

 

Yea I just have never messed with my car I just got it just under 2 weeks ago

 

If you're handy with some basic hand tools, it's a breeze. A bit of a tight spot getting to one of the bolts, but it's not at all what I'd call a hard job. Even for the beginning wrench turner with basic sense.

There are 3 hex head bolts as you can see where they go here:


Once you have unplugged the sensors on the intake tube and removed the intake tube, you can see the diverter valve on the turbo.

I would suggest taking the 8mm bolt off that holds the coolant tank in place. This will allow you to wiggle the coolant tank free of the radiator support and move it out of your way. You should not need to remove any hoses to get it far enough out of your way.

A basic "L" shape allen key set technically will suffice, but I personally used ball ends for better maneuverability and I also had allen sockets and a flexible ratchet extension.

It really is as simple as an electrical connector, 3 bolts, done. Re-installation of your stock valve or upgraded valve is simply reverse. The only thing different if installing a Forge spacer would be that you re-install with their provided, longer bolts. (Save your stock bolts incase you ever sell/trade in and want to take the spacer off).

 

So it probably makes more sense to wait to grt the spacer to put th both on at the same time