There seems to be some good information here and I can understand the points made from both sides of the argument.

However, after reading thru these responses, it seems that the individuals who have the adapter installed by itself do not experience the CELs. I think for a personal preferance, I will try this adapter to achieve the "sneeze" sound It seems to me the best option since I really do not want to mod much with the car. Thank you for all the information guys!

Nine5raptor: let me know how you like it when you have it installed!

 

Installed it today as it has been COLD or rainy/snowy or ive been busy. Took it out for a spin. Sounds different than an open intake but I like it so far! No codes thrown yet.

 

Awesome!

Do you have it on an N14 or N18? Did you do any other mods to it? I'm still a bit confused because what is the difference from a full BOV versus the Blow off Adapter? Doesn't it provide the same function? And on the N14, where is the valve located? It seems easier to find on the N18 pics I have seen. Thanks for any input!

 

So open intake = louder noise since it was being released into the area right next to the filter.

Adapter that bypasses this = similar effect, air is now being routed out before the intake.

adapter + open intake = the same as if it was just the adapter? (strictly speaking about bpv sounds) I guess I'm just curious for those that are interested in noise only....one of these is enough, two is redundant?

I have the DOS intake so just curious if this piece would act as only a hot air diverter or also a noisemaker. In my case it seems pointless either way but I'm still curious.

 

I have an N14 with:
CNT cat back
JCW intake (cone filter)
Alta stiffy spring
Otherwise drive train is stock.

The adaptor goes between the stock recirc valve and the turbo (same as n18) and does NOT replace the rcv. It blocks the recirc port and instead has 6 holes to vent to atmosphere. The sound is similar to an open intake (I used to have the ddmworks ris) but more raw as it does not go back through the intake tract. I have no CELs and have a couple hundred miles on it so far. I like to experiment so it will come back our at some point.

Sent from my XT926 using NAMotoring

 

Just to clarify, I think there are 3 separate products, which are causing confusion.

There is a "blow off adapter". This is basically sandwiches between the stock diverter valve and the turbo. This allows air to be recirculated to atmosphere with a whoosh sound. As this retains the stock plastic diverter valve, this does not solve the problem of weak and cracking stock diverter valves http://www.forgemotorsport.com/conte...roduct=FMDVMCS

There is a complete replacement for the stock diverter valve "recirculation valve". This is a redesigned and strengthened replacement for the stock diverter valve, basically a stronger version of the stock product. This functions in exactly the same way as the stock valve, ie recirculates air, but is just a stronger and better engineered version of stock. http://www.forgemotorsport.com/conte...oduct=FMDVR60R

There is a third product, which is basically the above 2 combined into one unit, giving the benefit of the stronger valve, but allowing air to be diverted to the atmosphere. Forge call this "blow of valve" http://www.forgemotorsport.com/conte...oduct=FMDVR60A

Then to confuse things there are different versions of these for the N14 and N18 engines!!

There is no argument that using the "recirculation valve" will not cause any problems or cels. The argument is to what degree the "blow off adapter" or "blow off valve" cause cels.

The diverter valve is in exactly the same place on both N14 and N18, stuck on the end of the turbo

 

Just want to throw my experience in here. I have had my HKS Blow-Off Valve installed for a week now with all city driving, about 400 miles. So far no CEL or any issues. I even drove it hard trying to get a CEL to pop, still seems good. I have a 2008 with an Alta Stage 1 91 octane tune. I'll post back up if it throws a CEL but for now I'm keeping the BOV on.

 

Would the stronger spring help with the (touchy) recirculation/release of boost when letting off the gas? I have the DOS intake and it seems the boost it releases very quickly with just the slight release of the gas.
seems like it really likes to release boost.

 

You want it to. By completely releasing the boost, you allow your turbo to keep spinning quickly. Trying to hold the boost creates backpressure on the compressor, increasing lag and stress in the turbo.

And if you are using the stock valve, nope. Mine still releases just as easily using the Alta stiffy.
Sent from my XT926 using NAMotoring

 

Thanks

 

I should also say, the idea behind a stiffer spring is that it will hold a higher boost level without leaking and it will close the valve quicker when the DME commands it to.

Sent from my XT926 using NAMotoring

 

Hello guys
I installed the forge ricerc valve on my cooper s n 18 engine
Now the system came with 2 springs one kind of blue which come inside the valve and one red ( yes red and not yellow ) that comes as spare
Do you guys can tell me which one is the hardest ?
Playing with both seems that the blue one that come in the valve is harder!

 

Red is stiffer than the blue. Here is the information from the forge site

http://www.forgemotorsport.com/conte...roduct=FMDVTUN

 

Thanks you robo for the precious info
I installed the jcw tuning kit , alta intercooler , alta muffler delete , acrapovik downpipe , and now I installed the forge recirc valve with the RED spring
Is that ok to use the red or I should use the blue stock one ?

 

The following link for the info you seek has been given, I just read it and found the answer to your question. If I can do than so can you.

 

Systemlord I can read and write four languages and it happens that I read that link
All I'm asking is depending on the modes installed on my car do I need to fit the blue or the red ???
And how do you decide to use the red Orr the blue ??? Iis it boost related how do you check your boost pressure on an n18 angine ??? And last but not least what's the adequate boost for both springs ?
Thank you

 

It list all of the springs operating psi as per your last question. Even robbo mcs gave you a link to your question as did I and you still failed there. Your grammar is questionable, you're not supposed to have spaces between question marks at the end of a sentence not to mention you paragraphing skills. You opened yourself up for this one. It's one thing to read and write four languages, it's another to actually do it. When you claim to be able to do something and you show otherwise people will let you know. I don't think you do though, just a hunch.

 

I think the blue would be best for you. I have a N14 JCW and also a N 18GP2, both of which boost up to 21psi. I contacted forge and asked them about it, as my diverter valve for the N18 came with what looked like blue spring, whereas the N14 one came with a yellow spring. Here is what forge told me :

At 21 psi either the yellow or blue are likely to be just fine for the car. If you aren't experiencing sluggish response or a loss of boost you're probably fine to just leave it as is

Hope that helps

Robbo

 

When you read on the WMW page it says that if you install that Forge spacer piece that you may get a cel, but from what everyone is saying on here they haven't right? Is WMW just covering their butt? Or have some people got the cel?

 

I'm a newb with mini coopers but I've been building and racing turbo cars for 20 years. Recirculating valves / divert valves (synonym) and Blow off valves serve the exact same purpose. They protect the turbo impeller from compressor surge which causes fatigue and eventually failure (higher boost amplifies this). It really all comes down to "preference" at the boost and air volume we are generating. Do you want to hear it or not?

The statement that it prevents hot air from recirculating is minimal as the air still passes through the inter cooler after it is recirculated. Cars with map sensors and mass air flow sensors feel the loss of air but it is generally adjusted for because the manifold pressure is the most weighted input for fueling. As stated older mass air flow only vehicles would go full rich to full lean with blow off valves because they had few or in some cases no other input for injector duty cycle (fueling).

To me it is possible to get a cel but unlikely to happen often, the proof is with the experienced users and they say they haven't received any. The only question to answer is to whoosh or not to whoosh. I was building turbo cars before " the movie that ruined it all" and since it came out I prefer no whoosh

Ps. For roadracers and canyon runners etc. boost recovery after coming off the throttle is quicker with a recirc. The impeller is getting help from the increased suction pressure ( vented pressure from charge pipe back to inlet of the compressor ).

 

I have had the wmw diverter as well as the forge spacer since a week or two since I posted this thread I have had no issue no cel car runs smooth it's a little louder then I thought but love the sound had an a4 with a forge valve and sounds similar. Overall good purchase on my end

 

Why didn't you buy a Forge DV?

 

It was almost 200 I got the wmw dv and the spacer cheaper and I wanted to remain slightly stock the wmw dv is just upgraded stock valve

 

Plus I could take the spacer off and still have the wmw dv

 

I installed the vacuum activated, piston operated Forge unit. I am extremely happy with the setup. Granted, I would rather listen to my Vette with the headers and cat deleted Magnaflow system, but the combination of my CNT exhaust and the "whoosh" from the Forge never fails to put a smile on my face. Oh yeah, it cuts out the turbo lag/stall when shifting too.