--

 

--

 

Good write up, a moderator should consider making this a sticky..

 

--

 

Excellent write up and very neat workmanship! Can you tell me where I would get the same camera? I would also like to add it to my car?

Thank you,
Mike

 

--

 

--

 

--

 

I am installing a backup camera on my 2014 Pacemen S. There are five wires leading to the rear tail lamp housing. I am trying to verify which wire goes to the backup bulb and also the ground wire. Any clarification would be appreciated.

 

--

 

Thanks for sharing your experience.

 

Good stuff! I will be doing the same soon...

 

Thanks for sharing. Great write up.

 

--

 

can anyone re-share these how to instructions? i bought a used 2010 R56 and would like to install a backup camera DIY. thank you!

 

Text and link content (until 2014.11.26) can be found here:
https://web.archive.org/web/20141221...ll-how-to.html

The project involves installing a camera above the license plate and an additional, non-OEM display in the cabin.

I'd be curious to know why the content was removed by @walk0080.

 

I'm installing a cam in conjunction with an ANDREAM Carplay module in my Mom's 2013 Cooper S Coupe. Everything is hooked up, however when the engine is running, the cam fails to work. I see the backup lines flicker for a few moments, then the screen goes blank. If the car is in accessory mode it works no problem. Any thoughts, ideas?

 

What happened to the how to?

 

Good question, I can't find info on this anywhere...

 

Copy of the instructions:

I started by running the camera cabling through the lift gate handle.

Modifying one of the handle clips with a rotary power tool:


Test fit (missing rubber seal).
The boot handle has four drainage holes (one for each screw) along the bottom of the handle. I simply enlarged on of the holes to allow the cable to escape.
The stock entry point for the boot button/lights are untouched so I don't have to worry about water leakage in that area.



View from other side (hatch panel removed) - I later added part of a rubber grommet to protect the cable from the steel body panel edge:





I ran the 4-wire cable (black - pos/neg/video) along the drivers side of the hatch window and then along the top to the rubber cable conduit:


Then ran an 8-wire cable (white - pos/neg/video - extra wires unused) under roof panel to passenger side boot storage area. I tapped into the backup lamp wire (blue/grey in my car) for the relay trigger and ran the wire (red) as well:
[It was around this point where the provided 4-wire camera cable became damaged and I had to re-run a new 8-wire cable (now white).]
[The extra coiled black/red wires are for a secondary boot light install for later.]


The camera cable then ran along the passenger side next to/under rear seat then behind the passenger side lower door panel:
[I then had to take a several day break here before continuing.]


Close-up of the passenger side fuse box area. Relay is bottom left, 12V power tap center right.
I used fuse # F34 (7.5A for heated seat control in my car). There was already a fuse tap installed for my FESAutoSport module so I used a POSI-TAP to add my circuit along with a 5A fuse.


The 8-wire cable then ran up from passenger side fuse box towards the passenger air vent:


And then behind passenger side air vent and along the top of glove box/behind the knee panel:


And then down the passenger center console:


Cable exits lower storage cubby - below A/C and window controls... there was already a small square hole next to the Aux-out/USB jacks:


I attached the 8-wire cable to the RCA and power jacks. The LCD panel is secured to the lower cubby rubber mat using double-sided outdoor high-strengh foam tape.


The LCD unit then just slides back in place. I later moved/hid those white/yellow wires that are visible in this pic.


I then re-attached all of the removed panels.

I also had to modify the license plate holder by drilling two new mounting holes. This is because of the thickness of the camera prevents access to the rear boot/hatch open button. I lowered it by about 1/2":


The camera license plate frame was attached using the stock MINI screws. The camera came with anti-theft bolts but they don't work with this install. I may purchase some new screws with star or some other less common head design to limit chance of theft. As-is it is difficult to notice it is a camera unit:


I broke and had to replace two yellow clips on the rear hatch panel - they are $3 each at my dealership. Cheaper elsewhere of course.

I will also be replacing the passenger side lower seat bolt - $10 at my dealership. Service manual indicates it must be replaced if ever removed (better safe than sorry...).

All cables/connectors were soldered except for where I used the POSI-TAPs.

Enjoy!