Any advice on what some good brake upgrades would be from stock? Needs to fit either the ASA AR1 17x7.5 rim, or the Tenzo Type M 17x7.5 rim if we're talking about a whole kit.

 

The factory brakes are pretty fantastic and more than adequate for the street. What is it that you want to improve about the factory brakes?

More heat fade resistant for track?
Better stopping for the street or autoX?
Less dust?
Shiney red calipers for asthetics?
etc...

 

I've only tracked the car a couple times but think I want to start doing it a bit more. Both times after a number of runs there was huge brake fade.

 

If fade is the problem, cooling is the answer. Get air ducted onto or into the rotors. If you get enough air going on them or through them, they won't get hot enough to fade.

Also use fresh high-quality fluid. Motul 600 (I think was the product name/number?) is really excellent stuff, but it needs to be flushed at least once per year.

Old fluid (even old stock fluid, but especially old high-performance fluid!) will absorb water, and that will make it boil more easily. So using fresh, or nearly-fresh, fluid on the track is an absolute MUST.

The big brakes will be heavier, and are more likely to hurt your lap times than improve them...

 

Not really at the point where I'm counting lap times. Just for fun mostly. But that was the one thing I noticed was the brakes fading. And having to be on them much sooner and longer. So the weight dif for me really isn't an issue. Been looking into the JCW kit. Just not sure if that will fit the wheels I have.

 

as stated above, I would at least START at simply cooling. I was actually thinking of making my own custom cooling duct kit(because the price on most of the bolt on ones is ridiculous for what they are in parts), but I don't ever track my R56, so I will never see the benefits in my daily commute. Kind of wish I went through with it, so I could offer to sell you a kit lol.

 

Good pads and DOT4 fluid is all you need for now.

If you get serious about track work, a BBK is a must! I've had my Detroit Tuned BBK for about three years now. I use Hawk DTC60 pads on track. Yes, the rotors are heavier than stock, but the performance of a BBK will shave seconds off your lap times. You will never have pad fade again, the braking torque is enormous (especially important on competition tires), and they are easily serviceable.

If you're primarily daily driving the car and you only do one or two track days a year I wouldn't invest in the BBK. However, if you know you're serious about investing more and more time on track, it's one of the best things to buy for the MINI besides a great suspension setup.

I would skip the JCW kit also. There are some members on here that track heavily and reported that the piston boots melt. A proper kit will not have piston boots. TCE Performance sell the best value kits in my opinion that have great long-term service support from Wilwood.

 

The brakes on the dyno I used to run to test high performance transmissions were 6 piston Wilwoods on some massive rotors... so I'd say Wilwod can't be a bad way to go if they are used in an application where they are being used to stall high performance transmissions.

With that said, I think you've gotten some awesome advice so far. BBK later if you aren't happy still after good fluid, good pads, and some cooling. Even once you do a BBK upgrade, those 3 things are still essential, so might as well do it now and see if those steps alone are enough for your use.

 

Alternatively, some Powerslot rotors with a proper air duct will also do wonders with (slightly better than stock) Hawk brake pads and stock calipers And doesn't break the bank either.

BBK, Wilwood, EBC red stuff, etc, are all good stuff. But since you said you're just doing it for fun mostly. I wouldn't bother spending over a couple of grand on it.

 

The nice thing about going to something like one of the Wildwood kits is that there are a ton of pad compounds available and they are much easier to swap pads on. If you're really getting into track days you'll end up with a set of track pads you swap to at every event. Nice to be able to just pull two pins and out come the pads.

 

Cool. So sounds like for now I'll skip it. If I do track it again, I'll start with the fluid and pads.
Thanks for all the advice!

 

I just did a track day - installed EBC Yellowstuff, WMW ss brake lines, and flushed with Motul RBF600. No fade issues at all in 20-25 minute sessions, though as I get better/faster that will likely change and I'll upgrade to a BBK. For the occasional track day I think you're fine with stock, with high temp pads and fluid.

 

Ok, so thinking about another track day in a few weeks. Sounds I might go with the yellow stuff pads (these good for every day use also?). As far as higher temp fluid, do you need to flush the system / rebleed / etc? Whats involved in that? Or would just using those pads be good enough.

 

fluid makes a heck of a difference. Drain the whole system, buy a big bottle of DOT4, refill and bleed. It's not too bad of a job and a braking system doesn't take a whole ton of fluid so it's fairly cheap. Well worth it.

 

K. Never drained nor bled a brake system before. (Remember noob here.

Suppose I can look up how to on youtube.

 

There should be plenty of how-to videos and posts on it. Hydraulic brakes are hydraulic brakes so find the most thorough and extensive how to, even if it's not Mini specific. you got a master cylinder full of fluid, brake lines full of fluid, and a bleeder on each caliper just like every other car.

 

yeah, does look pretty simple. One question, do you put the new fluid in "over" the old stuff and just bleed till the color changes and the system fills with the new fluid? (I'm speaking off the instance where you're changing to a different type of fluid (RBF600)

 

Buy a turkey baster at the auto parts store so you can get out as much of the old fluid as you can. Then pour the new stuff in over it. You should be able to tell when the new fluid gets to the caliper. Just remember to pump the brakes slowly.

Don't forget once you move to high temp fluid you have to flush/replace at least once a year

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using NAMotoring

 

I made this several years back.


Still works great.

http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty/dreed...atech/bleeder/

Far quicker and cleaner than brake pumping... Less risk if blowing out a higher mileage master cylinder as well.

 

I swapped the EBC yellows in a few weeks before the HPDE to get them bedded in. They are fine for street but produce a lot more dust compared to OEM. Afterwards I swapped back to OEM to get the dust down and save the yellows for the next track day. No compatibility issues. Brake pads seem to be a "religious" issue with some people - you'll find all kinds of opinions for every pad. EBC yellows worked fine for me, others swear by Carbotech, others swear by Hawk. I wouldn't sweat it too much for your first event.

I highly recommend the high temp brake fluid, your brakes will get HOT HOT HOT. With the Motul RBF600 I had a nice firm pedal feel all day. Bleed it yourself (see above) or have a shop do it. Make sure you don't get any on your paint.

soloperformance.com has the best price on Motul that I have seen, with very reasonable shipping.

 

Sweet! Thanks for the link!