R50/53 Door locking issue :-(
Door locking issue :-(
I've had my R53 MCS for about a month now and the passenger door lock has never opened when I press the keyfob or from the little toggle switch inside the car - in order to open the door I have to pull the lever inside the door and then it unlocks. TODAY... the driver side has started to do the same! I can hear the door lock 'click' when I lock and unlock from the key but it won't actually unlock the door (it does still lock) 
The door won't even lock from the toggle switch inside the car although when I press it I can hear the clicking noise.
HELP!!!

The door won't even lock from the toggle switch inside the car although when I press it I can hear the clicking noise.
HELP!!!
I've taken the door panel off and the actuator is clicking whenever I press the lock button but it doesn't click when I press the unlock button.
I guess I'm going to have to take the whole door locking mechanism off and investigate unless anyone else has any ideas? :(
I guess I'm going to have to take the whole door locking mechanism off and investigate unless anyone else has any ideas? :(
Thank you for the reply. Do you mean the whole door locking mechanism mate?
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No, it's just the actuator. With your door panel removed, it's located right by the lock. I've replaced both myself. It's not that hard. Just pay attention to where everything goes when you take the old one off. It made more sense to me when I got my new actuator so I could see exactly what I was replacing. The cable that runs from the interior handle is a bit of a pain but you can do it. Once you have everything detached, you may need to loosen the bolt that holds the window guide at the bottom to slide it a bit for clearance to move the actuator past it. Take a sharpie and mark the location before moving the guide so you don't have any window issues when you put everything back together. There are some how-to write ups in here if you search for them. Take your time and you'll be fine. Good luck!
Looks like this: Genuine MINI units.
Door Lock Left
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/51200556768/ES88657/

Door Lock Right
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/51200556769/ES88658/

Here is a diagram to help. #1 in diagram

Check to see if its a simple jam in the lock first.
Thanks and hope that helps.
Door Lock Left
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/51200556768/ES88657/

Door Lock Right
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/51200556769/ES88658/

Here is a diagram to help. #1 in diagram

Check to see if its a simple jam in the lock first.
Thanks and hope that helps.
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MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
No, it's just the actuator. With your door panel removed, it's located right by the lock. I've replaced both myself. It's not that hard. Just pay attention to where everything goes when you take the old one off. It made more sense to me when I got my new actuator so I could see exactly what I was replacing. The cable that runs from the interior handle is a bit of a pain but you can do it. Once you have everything detached, you may need to loosen the bolt that holds the window guide at the bottom to slide it a bit for clearance to move the actuator past it. Take a sharpie and mark the location before moving the guide so you don't have any window issues when you put everything back together. There are some how-to write ups in here if you search for them. Take your time and you'll be fine. Good luck!

Looks like this: Genuine MINI units.
Door Lock Left
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/51200556768/ES88657/

Door Lock Right
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/51200556769/ES88658/

Here is a diagram to help. #1 in diagram

Check to see if its a simple jam in the lock first.
Thanks and hope that helps.
Door Lock Left
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/51200556768/ES88657/

Door Lock Right
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/51200556769/ES88658/

Here is a diagram to help. #1 in diagram

Check to see if its a simple jam in the lock first.
Thanks and hope that helps.
Hi AJ. Yes all sorted.
Word of advice is to carefully move the window track. It slides on the plastic clip on the bottom which has the "saw tooth" guide. The window track absolutely needs to be moved so the lock actuator can be pulled out, and the new one put in position.
I also needed to use a part from the old lock actuator. It is where the Outside Lock Cable secures.
Easy job, just very tight.
Good luck.
Word of advice is to carefully move the window track. It slides on the plastic clip on the bottom which has the "saw tooth" guide. The window track absolutely needs to be moved so the lock actuator can be pulled out, and the new one put in position.
I also needed to use a part from the old lock actuator. It is where the Outside Lock Cable secures.
Easy job, just very tight.
Good luck.
Again, I'm no expert, just thinking out loud.
When you do decide that it is the actuator, be careful routing the cables so they don't interfere with the window's trajectory.
I made that mistake and my door would open when I rolled the window down. While testing of course.
I made that mistake and my door would open when I rolled the window down. While testing of course.
Thanks for the replies dude 
I can hear them click but they only lock (not unlock) from the keyfob. They don't lock or open from the toggle switch inside the car and they've stopped locking automatically when I drive away. Mind numbing lol.

I can hear them click but they only lock (not unlock) from the keyfob. They don't lock or open from the toggle switch inside the car and they've stopped locking automatically when I drive away. Mind numbing lol.
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