I've seen a few of the kits out there to replace this common issue. My line is starting to display a few of the symptoms so i'd like to replace it on the next oil change. detroit tuned has a few part numbers, how do i know which one is the correct part?

http://www.detroittuned.com/detroit-...-oil-line-kit/
http://www.detroittuned.com/mini-gen...l-line-kit-oe/

any other options out there?

 

I ordered one of those kits I just wish I got this line instead but, it was my fault for ordering it wrong.
http://www.detroittuned.com/detroit-...urbo-oil-line/

Just FYI you need to remove your turbo to get to these lines on the bottom and that is why it cost a $1k at the dealership. It is possible to do it yourself if you know how to turn a wrench and can be completed in a couple of hours.

 

I would suggest the first item linked - the DT Turbo Oil Line Kit. DT provides their own custom made oil lines that get rid of the o-ring that fails in the OEM line. If you get the second kit that is linked, you are just replacing the line with the same OEM line, so it will eventually fail just like the current line.

I would suggest getting the exhaust gasket and clamp that DT links to on the page for the kit.

Also, you do not need to remove the turbo to make the repair. You do have to remove quite a bit of stuff - it is quite labor intensive. Best plan for a whole day to complete the work.

 

Ditto.... recently did mine.... you really want the new gaskets and exhaust clamp... you will not get the exhaust clamp off in a usable condition. I found I spent more time running to the tool store to get one more extension or long wrench that could reach the dreaded back catalytic converter heat shield. I can do the job now in 1/2 the time(I am counting on never needing to do this again ).... and you do not need to remove the turbo.

 

We've been selling both the OEM kit and our own SS line kit. It really comes down to a person preference of which one you think will work better. The SS line kit is easier to install, and has some nice fitting on it without any seals that can dry out.

Yes I know our pic is not working, but I have to have my webguy fix it.

 

Just curious, what kind of symptoms does this cause?

 

Leaking around where the line connects to the turbo. Ignoring this for a long enough time will cause oil starvation in the turbo which will lead to turbo failure.

 

My is also leaking... I think I am getting the DT version.

@Porthos Have you put it on yet?

 

Mine was leaking where it makes the connection to the engine block. Whichever end, the failing line will result in an oil leak.

 

Yes I replaced it when I did the turbo upgrade a couple of months ago.

 

Mine is leaking as well. I am not sure where to be exact, but it is definitely leaking since there's oil running down the exterior of the turbo/downpipe heat shield. So which part is more appropriate for replacing the leaking line: WMW or DT?

Also on the turbo there seems to be a total of 3 lines. Two metal ones on top and one rubber one below that you cannot see that is the return line. Why do both WMW and DT only show one stainless steel braided line and the rubber return line?

What is the thicker metal line that is attached from the back of the turbo?

http://imgur.com/6GdktcZ,9tpiIGM

 

There is an oil pressure line, an oil return line, and a water or coolant line to cool the turbo. The pressure line on top is the one that usually leaks.

On the downpipe clamp, I find that if you slide it to the rear instead of forward over the downpipe, it's easier to get back on again.......but, it is stiff!

 

That is one of the water coolant lines...

FYI - everyone should open an issue with Mini over this poor oil line design... they know it is bad and we should all apply pressure until they totally re-sign it an pay to fix it. This is going to fail fo every single Turo S.

 

Owings Mills, MD Dealer ship wants $890 for labor and parts. I am going to purchase the DT Oil Line kit and perform the repair myself. I have instructions from some other thread on this issue regarding an 07 MCS, its the same R56 as my 09, so I am good there. The instructions say that I do not have to put the car into service mode and I do not have to pull the turbo out. So this is also a plus. My only question is, how do I remove the old/broken feed in oil line w/o removing the turbo?? Will I have to bend that line?

 

You will spend the most time getting stuff off the first time finding the right box wrench/socket combo to reach into the skinny places to get the heat shealds bolts off. If you got a good set of metric wrenchs/sockets that will help. I made a long handled 1/4 ratchet drive by crimping a 12" piece of 1/2" copper pipe over the handle.... this was very handy. Took a fraction of the time to reassemble. Once the oil line fittings were removed from the engine and turbu - I did not care about the old oil line... I bent it and cut it with sidecutters to get it out quickly/easily. The new flexible DT line is easy to fish through. FYI... $860 is not a bad price.... my Mini dealer wanted $1,300!! I walked out trying hard not to laugh... get the new downpipe/turbo gasket and downpipe/tailpipe clamp.... does not cost much. I destroyed my downpipe/tailpipe clamp removing it as the bolt was frozen/rusted.

 

Ok, well all I gotta do now is order the parts and wait for them to ship. I would agree that $890 is not so bad, but I really don't want to spend almost a grand. I really don't have a grand. For $200 worth of parts and 8 hours of my time I will take it, however I will probably not be saying that when I am doing it.

I will definitely be writing a letter to MINI as well as the other place. I agree that we need to get this part put on the recall list, especially since all MINIs I have read said they did this when their odometer hit 50k. That is just plain ridiculous. I guess if they don't see it being a problem, they will soon when they get 5,000 letters from MINI Owners. Got to put this in the books.

 

I agree with you speedracer I did mine a 2008 clubman with 37k miles as a prevention instead of waiting for it to leak, it came out ok and the new one from DT went in easily.
I did not use any new gaskets and the clamp came off just fine & I was able to reuse it.
It is a pain I did it without putting it in service mode , it really helps when your wife has small hands lol

 

Also file a safety complaint with the NTSB... if they get enough safety complaints (fire hazard) they will apply pressure.

 

It is not a fire hazard. They already took care of that with the water pump recall. Yeah when they were doing that recall on my buddy's 07 the oil snapped and they cahrge him a grand to replace it. OP since you are doing this work yourself I would like to give you some tips since I just did this recently, like 3 months ago. I suggest getting a Bentley Manual to help you unless you already have one. Make make sure you have a pan big enough to drain the coolant into, you might be able to get away with out draining the coolant but, if you plan on taking the turbo completely out then you will need to drain it. Also please replace with MINI/BMW blue coolant, 50/50 mix. Next you will not have to drain the oil unless you want to do an oil service while you are at it, which is not a terrible idea. Service mode will help a lot with the reinstall because some bolts are hard to reach. If you decide not to I suggest you a 11mm crows foot to help tighten the turbo back to the manifold. Also when tightening them back down start with the one to the bottom far right first and work yourself to the one the top left. Lastly make sure that you Red Loctite all the blots to prevent them from working their way back out.

 

Yea this was the other one I was planning on submitting a letter to. Just couldn't think of the name.

 

I am going to have to agree with Dymer on this one. I would say that it is definitely a possibility of the oil catching on fire. If oil is on the exhaust or even the manifold it could catch fire. They are both very hot parts, so at the right temp any oil running on a very hot surface could potentially cause a fire. So I would say that it is a fire hazard. And an issue that needs to be address asap, much like what happened to the auxiliary pump recall.

Got a Bentley manual and I am not removing the turbo and will not be putting it into service mode (so hopefully I do not have to drain the coolant and I am good on the oil change. Just did that 1,000 miles ago). Sounds like from everyone, that you can do the repair w/o removing the turbo or putting the car into service mode as long as you have patience and will be using the DT kit (braided flex line). I will either be taking a PTO day during the week sometime to do this or maintaining the oil level so that I can make it another week and then have the weekend to do this.

It's my feed in line that has obviously become detached from the connecting point of the banjo nut. It would seem the crimped part of the banjo nut has failed.


Line all the way in the banjo nut connector:
http://imgur.com/D1fqPXa,RTWfLY8#1
You should be able to see the differences.
Line out of the banjo nut connector):
http://imgur.com/D1fqPXa,RTWfLY8#0

Thanks to everyone that posted in response. Your thoughts, comments, and tips have been helpful. Will order parts tomorrow and I will definitely be posting back when all is said and done.

 

FYI.... the Mini Service manager told specifically the leaking turbo oil line hitting the downpipe was a fire safety hazard and I should get the oil line replaced immediately (for $1,300 ). I immediately bought the Bentley Mini manual and ordered the DT kit. Make sure you have a decent torque wrench and a oxygen sensor socket... while you can get the oxygen sensors off with an open end wrench... you need the special socket to torque it to specifications. One more tip... with the oxygen sensors - there is a lot of wire slack on both (wire is also a loosely sleeved wire) - I did not disconnect the wires... just removed any local tie clamps and removed sensor.... put a sandwich bag over the sensor... and securely tied it out of way until re-installation.

One other note... jack the car up and place on 4 jack stands so there is plenty of room to work underneath the car.

 

Got all those tools: Torque Wrench and Special socket for O2 Sensors and of course the jack stands. Recently replaced the after dp O2 sensor since I was getting a CEL about 6 months ago. So all the tools in hand, I guess. I have metric sockets, but could you tell me that exact tools you used for the job? I would like make sure I got everything or if I need to purchase something in addition too. I have alot of tools and most of them are metric and geared to the MINI, but rather not have to leave the house and/or say I don't have that tool. That would just be horrific.

 

Also DT says that I may need MINI Oil Filter Housing Seals: http://www.detroittuned.com/mini-oil...housing-seals/

Is it necessary to get this? I don't think I need this. Is this replacing the seal where the oil pan is located?

I am definitely getting the downpipe clamp, since it has been removed from the car 3x:
http://www.detroittuned.com/mini-coo...ownpipe-clamp/
the downpipe gasket: http://www.detroittuned.com/mini-gen...wnpipe-gasket/
and the oil line heat shield: http://www.detroittuned.com/mini-gen...e-heat-sheild/

 

You are not taking the oil filter housing off so no you do not need it.

On the fire hazard issue, do you realize how much oil would have to come out for it to catch fire? Not enough for a tiny crack in that line. Now if it blew out and you shot say a 1/4 quart of something along those line then maybe just maybe it would catch.