I was looking on Crutchfield's website. It looks like they can tell you what speakers to buy to swap out front and back speakers for a 2013 Clubman S.

Is it as easy as me buying a set for the front, and the back, and then finding someone local who can install them?

Can anyone suggest which speakers to buy at crutchfield if I want to keep it simple without adding an amp or anything like that.

My budget is about $400 for speakers, and $200 for the pro to install.

 

If you aren't adding an amplifier or anything like that and can use a screw driver you should be able to do the install yourself (then you can spend all $600 on speakers ). I'm sure someone has a guide around here showing how they come out.

Here's the sticky for the R56, and I would think that at least the front doors would be almost the same.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...nt-how-to.html

 

Thanks! I'm pretty sure I followed those directions in for my last mini. A 2007 Hardtop S and made a mess of the door. It wasn't as easy as it sounds.

I hope someone can point me to the right speakers, and I'll find someone local to do it.

 

If it's worth it, I'd spend a little more on the speakers.

 

Try these 6x9 cdt subs for the rear




focals for the front u can go 6.5 on the bottom door and 4" on top with the tweeters in the a pillars

 

While I would highly advise an amped set of components up front, I'd go with basic factory style coaxials if.you're not amping them. Without an amp, good components will not get to the volume or clarity you want because your head unit just can't supply the power.

If simple stop ins are the plan, I do have a nice set of rainbow 6.5" coaxials that I ordered in for a customer who since sold his truck

 

Go with the basic factory style. I upgraded all 6 speakers to the lower level boston accoustics all totaled it was about $200+ from crutchfield they had a buy one get one at half off sale. This is before I added a DVD and amp. But just doing that was literally like night and day. It is the best cheapest stereo mod you can do. You don't have to totally remove the rear plastic sides either although it is best.

 

condor, are you saying just buy replacement speakers for all that are reasonably priced, and just swap out? Where does the amp install?

 

How much power do you need? The interior is small so I assumed I wouldn't need an amp, and I think I was right.

I think my deck is 400 watts, no external amp (minus the one for the sub) and my components have enough power. I can turn the volume level to 38 (42 is the highest) and not have any distortion, but I have to be standing outside the car or I'll blow an ear drum. Inside the car with the windows up I can't go past 25 without going deaf. I hit about 30 in the summer with the windows down.

So unless you need to park your car and blast music for people a block away to run down and tell you they called the cops, your Mini shouldn't need an amp (except for the sub).

 

A few things to know, leaf(purely educational, not condescending):
1. No head unit has that kind of internal amp power. The most actual RMS power output I've seen from a decent head unit was 20 watts per channel.
2. An amplified speaker is not JUST about more volume than stock. It's about efficiently providing the power the aftermarket(and even stock) speakers need to perform their best. Trying to crank more power or clarity out of a speaker that doesn't have enough power only sends a clipped or "dirty" signal making the sound worse. You'd be surprised how much better the same set of speakers can sound at the same volume simply by being powered by a propper amp.
3. Blasting your music, as stated in number 2, is not the point of a properly built and amplified audio system.

 

I added a sub/amp/HU and my stock speakers sound 10x better. I will probably replace them eventually, but the sub/HU were a really dramatic improvement in sound clarity.

 

the good thing about doing the sub first if you have to do it in stages is that it allows you to take the bass off the stock speakers. the less frequency range they are straining to play, the easier they can function and they can be turned up more without breaking up. If someone can only do it 1 piece at a time, a sub is the right first step for that reason.

 

exactly what the audio wizards at the shop who did my install said, so that's the route I went.

 

heck, that's the route I went when I was 16 and did my first audio build. 12" JL W0(the original ) and a rockford punch amp. That car snowballed as I got deeper and deeper into the audio world, but I remember being very very happy about how much better you can tune a stereo to sound just by taking the bass off them and adding a sub. Then again, once you upgrade the rest as well, imagine how much better it will sound yet

nevermind this area, i asked a question that your sig answered. lol

 

Haha, it was definitely a good investment! I'm considering upgrading the speakers and getting the car dynamatted as well.

 

Are you against doing audio projects yourself? If you have the time and aptitude, you could definitely save some money, even if only on the sound control application.

One tip though, Dynamat is not the only, nor the best, nor the best priced product for the job. And there are different types of sound control mat as well. The typical self-adhesive foil-backed products like Dynamat are for some sound control, but mainly vibration and resonance control. If you end up wanting to do things to keep sounds in or out, other product types would be far more effective and save money over using layer and layers of a damping mat.

 

I did my upgrade over 5 years. Yes, that is what I am saying. Changing out those sad little mini speakers with just a basic upgrade (I used the lowest priced coaxial boston accoustics, 6 of them were under $200 on sale) makes a phenominal difference. I think it is the best upgrade for this car period. I used those with the base boost system for about 4 years.

This past year I upgraded to a DVD player using the metra kit and an alpine 545 amp
and sound ordinance powered sub (the low profile one). At 1/3 it made it hard to breathe. Clean sound too. I spilled milk into that amp so I replaced it with a sound ordinance amp, 300W I think. It still goes WAY louder than a human needs to hear it but despite similar specs, the alpine amp was clearly better (and more powerful by 200W also).

I'm not OCD just want a clean look. I just put the amp and sub in the trunk or whatever you call that thing. I'll eventually make a flush carpeted cover for it so it looks better. Running the wires was a challenge to me. I didn't use the car wires but ran my own from the DVD to the amp, and then the amp back to the speaker inputs where they connect to the car behind the dash. So in that respect I did use the car wires. Getting a 6.1 inch DVD player into a hole that was clearly 5.9 inches was also a challenge. I ran all the speaker wires down the center console and then back through the rear panel. I should also note that I used a stranded signal wire that I got from work and put on my own RCA end caps. This made the input to the amp about 1/5 the diameter of using just speaker wire (my normal modus operandi).

Don't plan on retaining the factory CD and getting a DVD in it. Maybe there is
room and maybe there isn't. I wish I could have retained the computer stuff but it was a fight as it was. I can say after you get used to looking at the blanks (not sure of the word) that cover the holes left by the factory radio you get used to it and it does not bother you anymore.

 

What type of product?
I have some extra foam cushion I was thinking of stuffing into my doors.
Maybe the rear panels too if I get the gumption to take it all apart again.

 

I forget what cascades sound barrier is called but second skin has a product called luxury liner pro that does a great job at blocking sound.

 

Do you think seat cushion would work ?
It's not old ratty stuff I bought new in big squares
for a different project. I have some left over.

 

Don't go stuffing your door with seat foam lol. A large enough amount of any material stuffed somewhere will block noise somewhat, but a product made for it is much more efficient.

Things like Second Skin's Luxury Liner Pro or Cascade Audio Engineering's VB-4 are thin so they are non-intrusive but are specifically engineered to provide a noise barrier. If you did just the floor alone with one of those products, you'd notice a significant decrease in outside noise in the cabin and then move onto the doors and it only gets better.

 

I put fatmat in my rear quarters and trunk bottom.
It helped. I could not gain access to inside the doors.
I spent a couple hours trying to figure out how to get that panel off.
I guess if I stuffed foam on there I need to seal the outside good
lest it get water logged over time.

 

I would love to do any of the CDT 6x9 subs, but the problem is my clubby only has a mounting depth of 2.6." All the CDT's need 3.5"