R56 :: Hatch Talk (2007+) MINI Cooper and Cooper S (R56) hatchback discussion.
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R56 Dis not know I was superman... I need help !!!

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Old Nov 22, 2012 | 06:54 PM
  #1  
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I was installing my new akra downpipe the other day and i broke one of the exhaust manifold studs due to overtightening with my superman like strength.. . Any ideas on how to get the remaining piece out so i can put in a new stud ? Any ideas will be highly appreciated ?

Dis not know I was superman...  I need help !!!-image-1547232993.jpg



Dis not know I was superman...  I need help !!!-image-3906042840.jpg
 

Last edited by mastermason11; Nov 22, 2012 at 06:59 PM.
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Old Nov 22, 2012 | 09:47 PM
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You can always use an easy out if you can get to the broken face of the stud to drill a hole in it to insert the easy out. In you photo it appears you can get to the other end of the broken stud and grind a slot using a Dremel tool and turn the stud out from the top side using a screwdriver. broken bolts usually come out fairly easily when they're broken from over torquing. Good luck.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2012 | 05:42 AM
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If you have a little bit of the stud still sticking out, you could heat it up and drip some candle wax on the hot threads to make the wax get drawn into the threads. You'd need some channel locks to try and rotate the stud out after it is very hot.

I think the easy out could be a lost cause. Those studs are in there tight and are very stubborn from all that heat around the turbo.

You might just have to drill it out and find a grade 10.9 bolt to fit there with a respective nut.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2012 | 06:05 AM
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Start by soaking the broken stud with Kroil for several hours and then the slotting technique mentioned above. I've had studs/bolts come out when I started drilling a hole for an easy out. We've been using Kroil in the airline business for decades. It works!
 
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Old Nov 23, 2012 | 08:29 AM
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Pretty much what was said above. What grade stud comes with the kit? If you go to a 10.9, you may lose ductility,although you might be able to torque it tighter.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2012 | 08:42 AM
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Don't feel bad we've broken a few of these as they seize in the turbo with the heat and age.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2012 | 10:17 AM
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My advice was based on the fact that the OP said he was "installing" the bolt when it broke. In my experience when I break a bolt on installation is that it's usually not that hard to remove. Old bolts that are seized due to heat or rust are usually more difficult.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2012 | 08:00 PM
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You don't need a 10.9 grade bolt..... That's OVERKILL. Most bolts on cars, with the exception of a few in suspension components, are 8.8 or less. You shouldn't have to torque it down that hard that you would snap what's there.

Just go get a regular 8.8 bolt (comparable to a standard grade 5). Figure out what the standard torque rating is, and torque it down to that.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2012 | 02:09 AM
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Thanks guys... I was able to get it out using a vice grip... Now everything is installed and ready for a test drive tomorrow morning...

Sent from my iPad using NAMotoring
 
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Old Nov 25, 2012 | 11:00 AM
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I presume you were able to grip the back side of the stud with the vise grips. Did it come out easily?
 
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Old Nov 25, 2012 | 11:38 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by ammodave
I presume you were able to grip the back side of the stud with the vise grips. Did it come out easily?
Had to remove the DP again and started turning the stud counter clockwise. It came out pretty fast.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2012 | 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by mastermason11
Had to remove the DP again and started turning the stud counter clockwise. It came out pretty fast.
Perfect! Couldn't have asked for a better outcome.
 
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