2007 Cooper / Base


OK,,, Iam cheap, lol... age 62, love to play with real cars back in the 60's - being Male and if you did not know how to 'tinker' with engines and cars back in the 60's - you walked a lot.. Some shade tree experience at best..
Well, I knew my front brakes were getting low and I really did not care all that much about the rotors... I have in the past tried to 'turn' rotors but it really never works all that great and being new ones for the Mini at Kragen was only $39 - I just waited.. Well, the RED BRADKE light/Sensor tripped of course and the wife said, time for a brake job??? Na,,, got a few more miles,,,, Remember, cheap,lol
Plus, I was not real sure how hard this job was going to be.. $110 total from Kragen for the front... set of brake pads and two rotors.
Started on the left - wasn't real sure what the sensor even looked like - was surprised to find only one (L) on the front and one (R) rear..
Jacked the front - removed the left wheel -
Two bolts holding the disk pads on - removed those and hung the calipers away from the rotor - before you remove the calipers - take a large flat bladed screwdriver and work between the disk and pads - push the inside pad INTO the calipers to move the piston back and allow room for new pads.
Next
Removed the single short screw that held the Rotor on - NOTHING>>>?????
This was actually the hardest part... It took me several min to realize, the rotor was just stuck on - with the help of a hammer and making a little noise - it broke loose and came right off..
Next - put on new rotor, install set screw back into rotor.
Next remove old pads and install new pads..
Remember - the piston needs to be pushed back flush to allow room..
Install the caliper back onto the rotor - install the two bolts back into the caliper - tighten or torque
Put wheel back on and do the other side
On the left front - you will find the sensor - I can not comment on how hard or easy it was to install the sensor..
Remember, CHEAP me - I did NOT want to spend $25+ for a sensor that will just wear out and need to be replaced... My front brakes lased 50K - So, in another 45K - I will change the pad or wait for the sound to 'talk' to me, lol
Did NOT change out the back pads - still plenty on MEAT on them..
Bottom line... This was just about the easiest brake job I have ever done... I spent more time trying to figure out why the rotor would not come off on the first wheel - after I hit it with the hammer - it was fine...
If I was NOT installing a new sensor to the front left wheel - I could do this job again in about 30/45 min at most... it was that easy..
DIY - learn and save $$$$$$

 

Hey Harley! Long time no see. Glad to see you still have your MINI.

I'm recently out of warranty and have started to do repairs and maintanence myself as we'll. Last weekend I had to replace the thermostat housing. That was a moderately easy yet tedious job. i saved about $750 by not letting the dealership rip me off.

Front brakes are due about the end of the year and have been planning that job. Oil gets done every 10k. My wife and I have MINI credit cards and use them for everything. We use the rewards points to buy parts and oil from the dealership. So far that has covered all my costs.

Thanks for the write up! Happy motoring!

 

Very good Harley. I have the pads and sensors on the shelf waiting for the install. I just did a brake fluid flush with a Motive power unit. Cost me $10.50 for the brake fluid. Mini wanted $260. You think the brake job is easy, do the flush!

 

Once you figure out how the sensors connect, even that shouldn't add but a few minutes to the job.

Now, if your rotor bolt is stuck and you strip out the head trying to break it free, it adds some time to the job while you work on cutting one of those suckers out.

 

Thats a big bolt to strip out but I have done things like that in the past, lol.... as men we can sure screw up an easy job at times, lol I write this from experence,...

 

The rear brakes are equally as easy. The only difference is that you don't compress the piston. You need a special tool to rotate the piston until it retracts enough. Search for "brake piston tool" on Amazon, and buy the little cube for about five bucks.

 

actually you compress AND turn

the turn part is due to the e-brake system

there is a ratcheting system in there which is the manual e-brake, along side the hydr' disk brakes. So you can't just PUSH, nor do you just TURN. You turn while you push . . .

 

Actually, i watched a youtube video where a guy just used a pair of channel locks and was able to get the rear piston back in

 

yes ... folks have done the push and turn that way

just like how I can push the fronts in just with my thumbs and using no clamps or special tools. Steady pressure is all that's required.

It ain't the tool that's important ... it is the motion and strength of the force . . .

BUT, sometimes the right tool makes things SO much easier.

 

Don't forget the brake fluid. It's one thing to have new pads/and or rotors but if you want a solid/strong brake pedal, bleed the brake lines. Do It!

 

[QUOTE=Capt_bj;3618752
It ain't the tool that's important ... it is the motion and strength of the force . . .
[/QUOTE]

Gee, where have I heard that before? / LOL

 

I just word of caution, there is no squeaker or noise maker on our brake pads so if you wait to hear noise from your brakes with no sensor it's going to be the grinding of metal to metal.

I'd still rather have a squeaker over an electrical sensor that is one more thing to buy every time, but that's progress fro you....

 

make no difference to me... back pads are low and NO metal yet and the disk will need to be changed.. Fronts went so close to metal that it sounded like metal.. no issues, just needed rotors - but would have needed them anyway and at $39 each - not a huge cost.
But thanks for the reminder