R50/53 What clutch to buy
What clutch to buy
Hi everyone,
I tried doing a search for this subject but couldn't find anything.
I have an '02 Cooper (not S) that I need to replace the clutch (not because the clutch is bad but the throwout bearing is making a lot of noise
). I drive the car 100mile/day for work and thats about it. Nothing fancy! The car had 160,000 miles right now on I think the original clutch. I am the 2nd owner so not 100% sure. I bought the car with about 40K on it, so I didn't figure the clutch had been replaced yet.
So my question is, should I put a stock clutch back in it or should I put something else in it. $$$ is always a concern. Any suggestions?
Thanks for any input!
I tried doing a search for this subject but couldn't find anything.

I have an '02 Cooper (not S) that I need to replace the clutch (not because the clutch is bad but the throwout bearing is making a lot of noise
). I drive the car 100mile/day for work and thats about it. Nothing fancy! The car had 160,000 miles right now on I think the original clutch. I am the 2nd owner so not 100% sure. I bought the car with about 40K on it, so I didn't figure the clutch had been replaced yet.So my question is, should I put a stock clutch back in it or should I put something else in it. $$$ is always a concern. Any suggestions?
Thanks for any input!
If you have done no engine mods, OEM is just fine. I happened to find this ad for
someone selling theirs for $160: http://npora.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=30758. That deal appears to include a new flywheel, which is a steal. If that one is no longer available, you can get a kit here for $175: http://www.clutchcityonline.com/products/03-061.shtml.
Don't forget the clutch alignment tool. Also consider replacing the slave cylinder; make sure to do a thorough bleeding if you change it yourself.
someone selling theirs for $160: http://npora.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=30758. That deal appears to include a new flywheel, which is a steal. If that one is no longer available, you can get a kit here for $175: http://www.clutchcityonline.com/products/03-061.shtml.
Don't forget the clutch alignment tool. Also consider replacing the slave cylinder; make sure to do a thorough bleeding if you change it yourself.
+1 on the OEM. (OEM grade Valeo, Sachs & LuK) The uprated performance pressure plates usually have significantly higher clamping pressures which can shock load the already sketchy stock R65 transmission.
There is a Kevlar disc available for the R50 which will outlast most of the organic discs. The catch 22 is that Kevlar has a lower coefficient of friction than most organic compounds so you have to use a heavy duty pressure plate with it to avoid clutch slip.
If you are going to do the clutch work yourself, it might be worth replacing the front input shaft bearing in the transmission. The stock bearing, P/N 23211036989 made by SNR, is a leading cause of R65 transmission failures. SKF makes a high quality bearing that fits for under $30. You need a gear puller to remove 5th gear off the end of the input shaft so you can remove the input shaft from the transmission. Next the bearing has to be pressed off the input shaft. If you don't have access to a press, most transmission shops will remove the bearings & press the new ones on for $45 - $65. Also, make sure you use the factory specified high temp grease where the T/out bearing rides on the trans shaft. BMW part# 83239416138. Throw in some new trans seals, keep the oil changed & you might see another 160,000 miles.
There is a Kevlar disc available for the R50 which will outlast most of the organic discs. The catch 22 is that Kevlar has a lower coefficient of friction than most organic compounds so you have to use a heavy duty pressure plate with it to avoid clutch slip.
If you are going to do the clutch work yourself, it might be worth replacing the front input shaft bearing in the transmission. The stock bearing, P/N 23211036989 made by SNR, is a leading cause of R65 transmission failures. SKF makes a high quality bearing that fits for under $30. You need a gear puller to remove 5th gear off the end of the input shaft so you can remove the input shaft from the transmission. Next the bearing has to be pressed off the input shaft. If you don't have access to a press, most transmission shops will remove the bearings & press the new ones on for $45 - $65. Also, make sure you use the factory specified high temp grease where the T/out bearing rides on the trans shaft. BMW part# 83239416138. Throw in some new trans seals, keep the oil changed & you might see another 160,000 miles.
What was the outcome of this? I have a very noisy tranny right now and I suspect the throwout bearing is to blame but I only have 50k miles on my R50 :(
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Yetti, is the noise apparent with the clutch depressed, or released? If depressed, suspect throwout bearing. If it's noisy underway, then it sounds like your Midlands transmission is getting ready to take a dump.
While the clutch is not depressed, foot resting off to the side. It grinds like there is no fluid inside of it. Horrible noises and funny face from the service techs and the SM as I dropped it off this afternoon. I am in a loaner now as we speak. Fingers crossed it is the internals as the extended warranty will cover it and the clutch is all on me.
Sadly mine was not the throw out bearing but the tranny. A few days after posting a bearing on my output shaft let go throwing pieces of bearing through the tranny and locking the tranny up. Thank God I was only going about 20mph at the time!
I am now looking for a replacement because too much damage to repair. Housing broke!!! I was stupid for not looking at it sooner!
I am now looking for a replacement because too much damage to repair. Housing broke!!! I was stupid for not looking at it sooner!
Yetti - I GUESS this is good news, then. Your Midlands is definately toast. It's pretty common, unfortunately, even at low mileage such as yours. You may want to buck up for a clutch kit while they are in there. If they don't resurface the flywheel, I don't see it being more than 1/2 labor (and that's generous) to do the friction disk / pressure plate / throwout bearing. The parts will run about $300, I think. Bad news is that I'm not sure if there are any brand new Midlands transmissions available any more. Six months ago, Way told me he had one (or more), but I had already purchased my Getrag. If you drove it there, it should be rebuildable. A junkyard Midlands is a crapshoot, because of the high failure rate, which is why I went with the Getrag 6 speed.
Wizz - From what I hear, 160k on a Midlands is a pretty good lifespan. I'm hoping your Midlands is rebuildable. Are you doing the work yourself?
Wizz - From what I hear, 160k on a Midlands is a pretty good lifespan. I'm hoping your Midlands is rebuildable. Are you doing the work yourself?
Yep, I will do everything myself! I don't like to have other people touch my vehicles if I can help it
. I have not had the heart to completely tear down the tranny yet. I know the output shaft is toast!
So far just what I have added up that I know I need will run around $1200 parts. I was hoping to find a used one with low miles for around the same price, but not a chance.
I found some low mile tranny's but they are around $2500.
I found several later ('05ish) 6 spds but from what I have read it will cost me a lot more to put one of those in than to try and rebuild mine. Will let everyone know what I end up doing!
So far just what I have added up that I know I need will run around $1200 parts. I was hoping to find a used one with low miles for around the same price, but not a chance.
I found some low mile tranny's but they are around $2500.
I found several later ('05ish) 6 spds but from what I have read it will cost me a lot more to put one of those in than to try and rebuild mine. Will let everyone know what I end up doing!
I think I am going with a Valeo since it is what the dealership was going to put on it. My normal mechanic told me his cost on the part is around $170 and that is the route I am going . I will drop it off at the dealership and they will put it on once the unit comes in.
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