OKay so I have a GT28RS laying around that I have been thinking about throwing on the car.

I am looking at getting the ATP adapter and oil lines to mount the turbo.

Here are my questions though:

1. MAF/Intake - Can I use my stock MAF and modify my Alta intake piping to make it work? Or do I need a custom made intake and to run without a MAF?

2. MAP Sensor - If I am running around 16-19psi shouldnt I be able to use my stock map sensor? i am going to guess I would just use an EBC to control everything.

3. Stock BOV plug - As I will be removing the stock turbo and have a boost controlled bov instead of the electronic one what happens when I unplug the stock one? Am I going to throw a code or can it just be unplugged and let the plug hang there?

4. Charge piping - I have gathered that post intercooler I can use all the stock piping. I am just wondering what everyone used to go from the turbo to the intercooler? What size, kind, shape, etc?

5. Boost sources - I know you can get the adapter from alta or other companies for use with a boost gauge etc, can I also use this for my bov, ebc, etc?

6. Tuning - It looks like Alta offers some tunes for the GT28RS that come for the accessport, this seems like a good way to go for me.

I think that sums up a lot of it.

Pics of other peoples builds would be great. Any info would also be great.

Thank you

Jaremy

 

What model is yout GT28?

 

you might want to read this guys work log before you embark..

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...lta-stuff.html

good luck getting it tuned.

 

1) The ECU will go haywire without a MAF.

2) MAP sensor should be fine at those boost levels.

3) Thinking this will also cause a code, ECU havoc.

No one on here (other than the link that MotorMouth posted above) has ever really given any details about running a GT28RS. There have been a handful that will install one, then say it runs perfect...then they disappear, most likely because they can never get it to work right AND they probably realize its too big for a 1.6 (unless you plan on doing the whole motor so you can get some rev's out of it). Even if you can get some decent peak numbers out of a 28RS....the boost and torque curves are not going to be very useable.

My advice, if you want to go bigger, sell your 28 and try a GT2554R...

or just go the hybrid turbo route like some of us here have done (with good results).

 

+1 to what Motor Mouth posted. Based on all past experiences of others with the GT28, you'd better have all the time in the world to get it to even attempt to work right.

 

My goal is around 260-280whp.

I know i have talked to alta about their turbo they are creating but they mention a price around ~2200 which is crazy for a turbo.

You can get a much better GT series turbo for less. hell a GT3071R is only $1200 new.

I would be willing to spend around 1k-1500 for a turbo, but not much more since i cant justify the idea that other turbos are far less that are much bigger.

What are the K03/K04 options for these cars, I know VW/AUDI/Mazda/Chevy all use a k series turbo on their cars.

 

The the cost to make the the gerrett work is going to far exceed the savings from the turbo. We haven't tried it on a R56 since Hubie built the Fireball car, but from what we know from that experience and doing GT28's on the R53 your looking at about $4000k minimum with out engine work. However with out reinforcing the engine you will need to run lower boost making the whole project not realty worth it. In reality you will actually be looking at 8-10k minimum to do the job right.

The easiest triple K turbo to install and see a power gain is the JCW turbo. Most of the needed parts are factory Mini and is almost a total bolt on job. The hardest part will be tuning and that's not that bad for some one that knows what they are doing.

Mini basically had this turbo and engine set up for the R56 JCW originally, but ended up lowering the compression and slightly reinforcing the engine after they started blowing up. This was all R&D redline stress test of course. Who is to say what the real long term affect will be on the street. Comes down to tuning really. So far though it seems to work pretty well.

 

Here's some info not in my original log / diary.

The MAF is about 2 3/4" dia and the GT28RS is 3" dia. You need to find hoses to connect them. I used tee couplings for the BOV return and crankcase breather (via an OCC), available from online sources like turbohoses or ATP Turbo. Plan it out in advance to save on shipping charges.

The BOV connection needs to stay connected to the OEM BOV or you get a code lite. The OEM BOV will un-bolt and can be zip-tied someplace secure. Kind of a waste, to kill a good turbo tho. You might be able to find someone to disable that code, but I haven't yet.

There are aftermarket charge pipes that "improve" air flow. I used one and mounted the manual BOV in it. Had to mount it at an angle to clear the hood. Another tee coupling ---.

I'm still working with Alta to get a reasonable map. Be sure you understand that the ECU will NOT control the Garrett, and will throw a variety of codes if not mapped for the way you drive it. Like Thumper said earlier, there aren't many of these combinations out there. And with the AP being relatively new, there are even fewer people that can create maps for us.

Whatever you decide - best of luck.

 

Glad to see you guys get it!

People think they can just buy the ATP GT28RS kit for like $1200 and throw it on and have 300+ whp

 

4000k?

with the exception of the turbo, DP, and associated hardware, what more would you need thats going to rack up the dollars? mabye odds and ends and a few hours with a welder but 4g's. a grand tops over the intial investment if money is spent wisely and your doing all of the work your self.


to the OP.

Lets face it, if your asking what it would take to make a gt28rs work on an r56 then your best staying away, or paying someone to make your life easier. This isn't to turn you off to the idea. its just to keep you from making mistakes that everyone makes there first time. however you own a nice car and it would be a shame to splode all over the street because you over looke a minor detail.

 

Theres a difference between just doing it....and doing it right the first time. And I'm going to have to agree with ABF Mike here....

You're easily looking at $4k if you want to do it right.

Sure you can throw it on for ~$2k and have a working car, with gains...but its not the route I'd go. And in reality you will not be taking full advantage of that GT28RS. A GT28RS would be awesome on this car with a fully ported head, appropriately sized valves, properly matched custom spec'd cams, and ideally pistons and rods to handle the power you'll throw though it. Even with all that, you're still running a 1.6L which is too small for a 28rs......it would be perfect for a 1.8-2.0 stroked R56, in my opinion.

Oh and then after all that....have fun trying to get it tuned correctly with the current tuning options....

 

I guess its semantics. Doing it right to me means having a system that turns on drives and works properly no leaks no drops no bandaids. you can make more power porting the head to accomadate the boost and stroking the motor for more low end. but its not a must to have a drivable car

 

Those aren't a must, but a reinforced motor should be considered and tuning is a must. The GT28 is over sized for the 1.6Lt if you have to run low boost to keep the stock engine from blowing. At that boost level the car will have the normal power loss from the turbo lag, but no top end to make up for it. It may run and drive, but an MCS with off the shelf parts would probably keep up if not out run it. Not really worth it and is why I said it's not doing it right.

But like you said its semantics and every one has their own idea about how to build a car

 

Yes sadly it seems the aftermarket and support for this just isnt there..

Guess i will be going to the alta turbo upgrade.

 

Go to g pop you can rework your factory unit to push some nice flow numbers by upgrading both wheels. It will flow more than a jcw, more thn the alta wheel and be cheaper...

www.gpopshop.com call them

 

I left them a message, I am assuming at that point I would have to be tuned by RMW?

I am going to guess Alta doesnt have a tune for this and it wouldnt be easy to have them do without my car on a dyno.

 

You would eventually want a tune from anyone who can, jan would be the #1 bet since he pretty much got the tune movement started and has the most experience. Someone on here has been running the g pop turbo. Might want to PM him as well his name is "Elessar". he does currently have an rmw tune.

 

I just dont like the idea of being tuned by someone not local in case I decide to change something or make adjustments, etc. I wish we could tune our own cars haha, guess i shouldve went JDM if i wanted to do that. I like the idea of the accessport since it basically is a loader and a logging device.

what is everyone using to load Jans tunes onto their cars with?

 

He goes around the country, may 14th hes in my local area (mid atlantic). Dimsport tool or the accessport from cobb. Either way it can be done, the decision however is yours

 

1) The bottom end will handle your power goals. Im right under 260whp @ 18psi (mustang dyno) on an alta stage 3 "canned" tune (working on getting a custom map from Chris at alta) I beat the snot out of my car and she loves it. need more boost and a lil better tune for 300 wheel.

2) If you run a 25 ohm resistor you can delete the stock DV.

3) The GT28RS spools beautifully on our cars. I do have schrick stage 1 cams though. Still only 248 deg and 10mm lift.

4) There really arent any stroker kits out there.

5) As far as a bolt-on car beating you, HAH!

6) You have to put the JCW map sensor on the car to see over 20 psi without any boost/fuel/timing cut. The S model sensor has a built in voltage regulation that causes the hiccup over 20 psi.

7) Axles are expensive source them. 550$ a piece from the dealer. PUKE! You will tear them up at those power levels Although my diff/clutch combo prob doesnt help with that.

hit me up if you have any questions...

 

lol @ 95% of the above.

 

wish i could hear your tone thumper... not really sure what youre laughing at or agreeing with.